fusible link & smoke - AMP meter the cause?

[madhouse]

Hi, I just had a great day changing all the rear wiring of my 1970 SuperBee and getting everything working first time. And then it went downhill :sad11: - I thought i'd also clean the gauges as only the amp meter was working sort of. Removed instrument cluster with great difficulty. Cleaned out the whole thing, change the voltage limited to electronic, tested all the connections and rewired the harness. When I reconnected the battery it was already a bit odd (heard a 'click'), disconnected and rechecked wiring. Nothing weird, reconnected battery and the fusible link went up in smoke. The AMP meter looked 'okayish' before if re-installed it. Could it be the culprit anyway?

I need some help at figuring out what the cause was before anything else dies. I just replaced the complete wiring in the car over the last few weeks (M&H so all fitting perfectly - and no issues before removing/replacing the instrument cluster) so bit annoyed at myself.
I hope nothing else got fried :icon_pray:

What is the best way of finding out if it was the AMPmeter or if anything else is causing it?

tx

 

[Nacho-RT74]

amp could be the culprit if made a short with housing, thats all

then if amp or related wiring is involved this is the only circuit being affected, not the rest.

HOWEVER, if it took too much time to blown the fuse link you can get melted wire covers around amp wiring related.

 

[747mopar]

Sounds like a pretty good short, I'd inspect everything you had out and look for black marks from arching. the ammeter is the most likely cause if it was the fusible link that supplies it but it may just be a short in the wiring "those old wires get brittle over time". Good luck

 

[madhouse]

Bummer - fairly sure that could be it. The spacers where fairly bristle - probably when tightening they broke/cracked and caused the sort. I'll dismantle the instrument panel next WE again and hopefully nothing else got damaged :icon_pray:

 

[Nacho-RT74]

just in case:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ammeter-Ins...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53e13ba5b9&vxp=mtr

 

[madhouse]

Thanks - I guess I needed those Saturday

As a temporary solution (until I have the $ to replace the fuel, tictoc and speedo and restore the whole panel with Volt meter), after checking the rest of the cabling is still fine after the short and replacing the burnt fusible 16 AWG link, I was thinking of just bypassing the ammeter for the moment by putting the 2 AMP wires together with a nut/bolt & shrink/tape. And at the same time run a 10 AWG wire with a 14 AWG Fusible link between the starter relay and the alternator. The car is very basic/stock - no AC, no radio, no specials - with the std alternator - so don't have any high power AMP requirements.

Good solution? (all wiring front, engine, rear, steering, dash is new so no 'tired' cables)

tx

- - - Updated - - -

Sounds like a pretty good short, I'd inspect everything you had out and look for black marks from arching. the ammeter is the most likely cause if it was the fusible link that supplies it but it may just be a short in the wiring "those old wires get brittle over time". Good luck

I just replaced all the wiring (front/engine/back/dash) so all fit and healthy. Just tired brain here that didn't replace the insulators
Going to open the dash in the next couple of days and hopefully the damage is limited to the fusible link.

Thanks!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If you have material around, the insulator can be home made. Just be sure is not a material able to melt down.

I think original material is called MASONITE. The material used for printed circuit boards works too just be sure no metal layer on it LOL

tie together both amm leads should be enough to keep the car running. No need to run extra wires... that is JUST if the only damage was the fuse link and is confirmed the ammeter is the culprit due the insulation failure.

AND just in case you want to take a warn call about the tipical Mopar system charge failure, and how it works the system read this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

 

[madhouse]

Removed the instrument panel and tested the AMmeter prongs & ground before removing the nuts. It seemed on of the prongs was touching the housing. The insulator on the inside was broken around the edges. Decided to remove all the gauges and clean the lot while I'm at it.

It coupled the AMwires together + shrink + tape. Can I start the car without the panel installed? I don't see why not but just to be sure I didn't miss anything.

thanks
cm

 

[Nacho-RT74]

yes you can... in fact is the way to do it. Its the only way to feed ign switch without hack anything around