Got my new booster today

[themechanic]

Maybe he's rich and can afford to pay someone to do the PITA jobs like this one.

Getting the bolts through the linkage under the dash while lying on my back was the hardest part.

 

[short stack]

Maybe he's rich and can afford to pay someone to do the PITA jobs like this one.

Getting the bolts through the linkage under the dash while lying on my back was the hardest part.

I hear you on that one. Getting the two nuts off the m/c mounting plate from inside the firewall above the steering column was one heck of a challenge. Got them off, engine compartment and mounting bracket painted, now to get them reinstalled! :icon_cry:


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[cr8crshr]

Yep Brakes and all their related parts. Hate doing anything Brakes. That being said...The easiest way to work on the under dash nuts and bolts is to remove the front seat. If it is a bench seat then never mind as that is an *** pain by itself and requires some extra hands. But if you have a bucket seat, then proceed with the removal. It is so much better on the ol' back to be able to lie fairly flat and reach up under the dash. And with your feet on the rear seat it takes all the stress off the back.

That looks really great now. Cad has its look but the black appearance just looks better...IMHO. Glad you mentioned the Round Hole backing plate is the correct one to use when converting to power assisted. The angled is for Manual Brakes. I was going to convert my Manual set up to Power Assisted and was having a hell of a time trying to get things to align up. DDDDUUUUHHHH!!! Different Backing Plates. I subsequently stayed with Manual Disc/Drum and the braking responsiveness has been really good. I am a subscriber to the MOPAR Action/ Rich Ehrenburger theories on upgrading the Brake systems on our older cars. Their web site has a ton of excellent info when it comes to Brakes. All of his tips and suggestions I have incorporated into my rides. And they work. Especially upgrading to an 8" Dual Diaphragm Booster. Nice work...cr8crshr/Tuck

 

[ga66mopar]

I used all factory parts on my power brake conversion and while it took a little effort up front I have enjoyed three yrs of trouble free excellent power disc brakes.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

That's the mechanics car lol mine's not done yet waiting on parts from PJ backing plate and swivel assembly.

Bigman - That looks WAAAAAyyyyyyy Better than the old gold setup you had. That one reminded me of a 1976 winnebago motorhome!!

Im headed down this road soon, thanks for all the photos and descriptions. Any reason why you didnt do the conversion yourself?

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It's funny cuz the first set up from RSD the shop did I hated it so much I re did it myself and yes what a freaking pain. had to enlarge the hole in the stock backing plate make new mounting holes it sucked, plus make or fix the pedal rod set up.

it worked though, I took it back to the same shop because they owed me. When they did the first set up they welded the through bolt to the booster bracket and made a mess.

So I said hey wtf I could have returned that and gotten some credit back wtf? ooops.

they felt bad so are helping me out on this new booster, but instead of having everything I need so they could dod it in one day I forgot the bracket and swivel lol so now the car sits at there shop where they have to roll it in and out for 4 days now until the stuff shows up. I felt bad for about 2 seconds then whipped out the welded on stupid wheel stud bolts they tried to use and quickly got over it!

Maybe he's rich and can afford to pay someone to do the PITA jobs like this one.

Getting the bolts through the linkage under the dash while lying on my back was the hardest part.

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To follow up as to why I had a shop do the work in the first place was I had a full suspension kit and the brake kit all being done at the same time. all for $600 installed and alignment and balance included.

 

[318 Six Pack]

That cad plated booster you show in the pic is a Bendix unit commonly used on Fords. Rebuilt ones of those are available at Auto Zone for like $90.00. Of course it's the mounting bracket and rod that makes it work on the MoPar. The OP pic appears to be the correct Bendix unit used by MoPar for the factory disc brake cars. The Ram Man claims to have the correct boosters as well but may be more expensive. If this is indeed the correct Bendix booster for the B body, and you got it for $300.00 outright rebuilt ready to go, I probably wouldn't complain either.

From watching the Ram Man video, it looked like his booster/master combination came with the correct pedal connector for your body as well as correct plate too. If you are a non-HEMI B-Body like me, they will put the correct parts in the shipment for that car. That was my understanding anyway.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Well here it is all done yeah finally!

way too much drama and $$$ hopefully my mistakes will save others some $$

 

[themechanic]

I just got my new booster installed, too. I have the 1.032 master cylinder. The pedal is soft but stops like a new car. I may install the 1.125 MS and see if I like it better. Which bore size did you get?

P.S. Like you wire looms.

Here's mine:

 

[318 Six Pack]

The linkage has the bushings in it. The only thing you don't get is the bolt with the o-ring that connects the linkage to the pedal.

Here's my before and after photos. (I forgot to take a photo of the linkage.)

View attachment 176811View attachment 176812View attachment 176813

themechanic,
Can I use that 001-jpg image in a video for a few seconds?

 

[themechanic]

No problem. Will you send me a link to your video, please?

 

[318 Six Pack]

No problem. Will you send me a link to your video, please?

Yes, it will be on YouTube on my 318 Six Pack You Tube channel too. I just need to remember to link it here.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNibiQri61kGzV85Gv07y8w is the channel. Wish they gave a more descriptive URL.

 

[318 Six Pack]

No problem. Will you send me a link to your video, please?

Had a delay on that video, will be a few more days probably.

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Well here it is all done yeah finally!

way too much drama and $$$ hopefully my mistakes will save others some $$

Can I use that image in the video I'm doing too? When I redo my brakes, I plan on painting the master cylinder to stay looking just like that.

 

[themechanic]

No problem.

 

[resq302]

FYI - those who are going for OE judging and want original stuff. The Pirate Jack Bendix repro unit has a different shaped rear half of the booster. It is close and those who do not know will probably not spot the difference but the repro unit steps down while the original is straight across. Granted, it is nice to see that someone is making repro things for the Bendix cars like my charger. I guess I should consider myself fortunate that I have a spare original one as well as two or three spare calipers, master cylinders, and anything else I need for a factory disc brake system should something ever happen to my charger.

 

[munger77]

After reading this thread and comparing a LOT of different prices/options, etc, I heard from Steve at Pirate Jack and bought a complete kit at pirate jack for $285 shipped. Product # MP-306 on their site which includes 8" booster, bracket & linkage, master cylinder and proportioning valve all designed to work with NO mods to the firewall. Thanks b body forum.

 

[Erik Morris]

After reading this thread and comparing a LOT of different prices/options, etc, I heard from Steve at Pirate Jack and bought a complete kit at pirate jack for $285 shipped. Product # MP-306 on their site which includes 8" booster, bracket & linkage, master cylinder and proportioning valve all designed to work with NO mods to the firewall. Thanks b body forum.

For anyone else reading this thread, as of March 1 2022 the going rate for these is up to $327 and up depending on disc/drum configurations.