Head gasket sealant?

[DWinTX]

I'm building my first engine, a 318 poly stroker (349ci). I'm about to install the heads and I've read about some using a sealant on the gaskets. Some use hi-temp aluminum paint, some copper paint, some Permatex, etc. I'm using the standard blue Fel-Pro gaskets.

Do you use a sealant? If so, what brand/type? I've read some newer aluminum paints don't really have aluminum in them any more and so don't seal properly.

 

[mopar 3 B]

The standard blue Fel-Pro gaskets already have sealant on them, that is the blue coatning. You need to watch what you put sealants on. Sometimes they will do more harm than good especially for the some as is great more has to be better crowd. It will dislodge and plug ports, mess up lifters, cause thermostats not to close and all sorts of nasty things.

 

[DWinTX]

Thanks. I searched the forums before asking, but didn't go to Fel-Pro's site. They said the same thing, no sealer.

Yep, I've been pretty careful with the sealer thing, only using what is necessary.

 

[66Satellite47]

If you're using the blue Fel-Pro composite gaskets, no sealer. Stock style steel shims use KW Copperkote.

 

[dvw]

I've even reused Fel-Pro's on 13-1 motors. I do like to torque the bolts/studs and let them sit maybe 15 minutes. Then break each one loose one at a time in order and retorque. You will be amazed how much further the fastener rotates the 2nd time. Never a gasket failure with this method, even on blown small blocks.
Doug

 

[mopar 3 B]

If you're using the blue Fel-Pro composite gaskets, no sealer. Stock style steel shims use KW Copperkote.

A good coat of good old bearing grease will have the same affect and is much cheaper. Use only on steel shim gaskets and paper.

 

[DWinTX]

I've even reused Fel-Pro's on 13-1 motors. I do like to torque the bolts/studs and let them sit maybe 15 minutes. Then break each one loose one at a time in order and retorque. You will be amazed how much further the fastener rotates the 2nd time. Never a gasket failure with this method, even on blown small blocks.
Doug

Is this true even with bolts that are not torque-to-yield?

 

[bm02tj]

torque-to-yield
If you loosen you need to replace as they are one use only

 

[dvw]

Is this true even with bolts that are not torque-to-yield?

This method is only used only with NON torque to yield bolts/studs. If the method of attachment requires the torque angle method than the torque angle method must be followed. A normal SB/BB build is not torque to yield. You can loosen and retighten with good results. You'll notice that many aftermarket rod manufactures will tell you to tighten your rods up 3 times before final torque.
Doug

 

[DWinTX]

OK, sounds good. I'll do it. Thanks.

 

[Moparsmitty]

If you're using the blue Fel-Pro composite gaskets, no sealer. Stock style steel shims use KW Copperkote.

Exactly. I've also used Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket with good results.