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Header Screws Coolant leak

69Roadrunner69

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I have some antifreeze leaking from the header screws.
I know the header screws run deep into the water channels (for what reason ?)
First I thought it´s the head gasket. But I don´t think so anymore.

We have a very cold winter here in Germany and the colder it gets the more it leaks. I don´t drive the car in winter but a look in the garage shows me that it leaks even when parked.

Maybe I give RTV silicone a try. I didn´t have the stock headers so I can not use the original bolts.

Anybody else with the same problem and an idea how to fix it FOREVER !?
 
That's not an uncommon problem. When possible, I like to retain the original studs and use nuts for bolting down headers. This allows for better sealing and (hopefully) no leaks if you have to pull a header. If you can't do that, then you'll have to drain your water and make sure all the bolts (and holes) are really clean and dry before you can use any kind of sealant. What might work best is the high temp RTV
 
I bought this one:

glue650f1.jpg


Should be the same you were talking about.
 
Teflon plumbing pipe dope. They use it on boiler fittings so a header bolt is an easy seal. Also you can just pull the bolt ,dope it and screw it back in.
 
Pipe dope rated for boilers works best. I have used teflon tape and RTV. Drain your raditor down some, wipe of blow out any water / debris coat the bolt and put a little in the head torque it and your good to go
 
The RTV you have will work fine.The rear studs enter the water jackets on each side on the Big blocks but on the small blocks its the front and rear studs on both sides so goop them up with RTV.You might also want to check the frost plugs located in the back of the heads and on the exhaust port sides as well just to rule out all possible leaks.
If you want to fix it forever get Edelbrock heads they have blind holes so the studds/bolts don't enter the water jackets :)
 
Sealer

I used Permatex high temp thread sealant. I had to pull my headers (changed motor mounts - in car) and I had to remove the studs to fully remove header on drivers side. I went ahead a pulled the other side as well and replaced 4 studs with Jegs header bolts. My studs were original and I like to never got them out- lots of lube,double nutted and very slow. Like the rest said, clean dry and I chased the threads. New bolts with sealer and no leaks. I think the bolts give it a cleaner look than studs. Just my thoughts.
 
Thank you all for the answers, I try it in the next few weeks ! Still have to wait for warmer weather...TOOO COLD in the garage !

@74sundance: It´s not only the rear holes in my car ! Every single hole ends in the water jackets ! If you loose a bolt it always looks like that (without the boat ! :)! ):


niagara4b.jpg
 
Hopefully it's just the studs, and I agree, pipe dope would be the way to go.

In my case the coolant leak was a long crack below the center exhaust ports on both heads. I wasn't about to pull it all apart just after breaking in the cam so Bars Leaks to the rescue! Eventually I brazed the crack and continued to run the heads.
 
I am pretty sure that´s the bolt holes. Because the drops are exactly under the bolts.

You tried bars leak ? Which one ? This one ?

1111_lg.jpg



Did you have problems after using bars leak ? Some people say that you get problems with your cooling system after using it.
 
The bottle is different but I'm sure it's the same stuff. It's a dark liquid that looks like mud with pellets in it - almost like you don't want to pour it in your radiator!! I have used that stuff on and off for years and it works great! On my old 86 Toyota truck I used it to keep it running with a blown head gasket for 15K miles!! Talk about lazy!! Finally I had to replace the gasket and once completed everything was fine. Follow the instructions and you should be OK.
 
Yes, definately save for plan C. My mentor always told me that auto repairs dont come in cans or bottles.
 
I cracked the head on a ford ranger with bars leak seal. it clogged the little passages around the cylinder and created hot spots and caused it to crack. when i pulled the head the holes were almost completely closed.I wont use it except for an emergency and afterwards i,m flushing everything.
 
with bars leak dont use more than one can . my mother inlaw bought a jeep would run hot in summer found out the rad was half full of bars leak and was 10 pound heaver than stock just for a coolant jug that was cracked.
 
Alright ! The weather is getting better and I started with fixing my coolant problem.

Here some pictures from what I´ve done....


On this picture you can see the problem with the green coolant coming from the header screw hole...running around my sparkplug all the way down to the oil pan.
resto001.jpg



I drained the coolant...

resto002.jpg



I was suprised how clear the coolant is looking ! You can even see the bottom of the bucket !!!! Looks great ! :)

resto003.jpg


This is what I tried; RTV and something we call Teflonband in Germany.


resto004.jpg



I wrapped the Teflon around the bolt...

resto005.jpg



Put the RTV around...


resto006.jpg



screw it in .....and here we are....

resto007.jpg



Now I wait some more days...refill the coolant and give it a try !
 
Sealant

I used a pipe joint sealant that is rated for steam on my header bolts. I had first tried RTV and still had leaks.
 
startet the car after a 6 month winter break and it worked well....no coolant leak after the first drive ! Hope it will last....
 
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