High reading in my amp meter

[OCTAVIOUS]

1970 Coronet R/T vert.
440 auto with Rallye Dash
Original charging system

Car was running good and the amp meter would run up to 20+ after start up and slowly head back to just above positive after a drive and do its normal thing

Few days ago the meter now goes up to 30 plus after a start up and now won’t return to below 15 amps i have tried to regulators both go to ~ 14v

Here is what I know…

1)The output from the alt terminal is what the amp gauge reads
2) volts from regulator above idle is 13.8-14v
3) battery reads 12.7v at rest and follows voltage reg in running condition.
4) drove for 45 minutes still doesn’t drop below 17amps where it use to go down to 3-4amps
5) connections from everything in the engine compartment has been pulled and cleaned including bulkhead connections.
6)at a stop light it will drop to negative on the amp meter

Suggestions

 

[kiwigtx]

1. You have a large current draw while driving,
2. Your battery needs a bigger and longer charge than normal - bigger than what you have seen recently
3. The battery could have a dying cell
4. The ammeter could have a bent needle causing it to stick in place.
5. The terminals at the back of the ammeter might be loose or burning.....worth checking to eliminate that potential problem.
6. The battery may need electrolyte top-up...depending upon type.

 

[OCTAVIOUS]

Tried two different batteries and used a stand alone charger on them before testing last time

Your Number 5 or a ground is my fear
Keep them coming

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Tried two different batteries and used a stand alone charger on them before testing last time

Your Number 5 or a ground is my fear
Keep them coming

Assuming the ammeter returns to center when shut off or battery disconnected. Not seeing how a connection issue at the ammeter studs would create a high charge indication. Normally, a high abnormal charge rate would indicate a battery problem, were the batteries tried load tested, verified as good? You said all stock charging system, any added loads connected at the battery or starter relay?

 

[OCTAVIOUS]

Assuming the ammeter returns to center when shut off or battery disconnected. Not seeing how a connection issue at the ammeter studs would create a high charge indication. Normally, a high abnormal charge rate would indicate a battery problem, were the batteries tried load tested, verified as good? You said all stock charging system, any added loads connected at the battery or starter relay?

Yes gauge is reading what is being produced and it does go to center even negative at low idle which is normal but go above ~1800 rpm goes to 20 amps on guage

Nothing added even run points for ignition.

I put a clamp on DC amp meter on the positive wire to battery and saw 9amps the output from alt was 17amps
Got to be going somewhere. Gauges all operate normally

 

[twecomm]

I had posted this article over on Electrical Forum. Not inferring you battery might be at issue, but... Just some food for thought.
Seven Things That Go Wrong With Car Batteries

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Yes gauge is reading what is being produced and it does go to center even negative at low idle which is normal but go above ~1800 rpm goes to 20 amps on guage

Nothing added even run points for ignition.

I put a clamp on DC amp meter on the positive wire to battery and saw 9amps the output from alt was 17amps
Got to be going somewhere. Gauges all operate normally

Convertible? Power windows? Not many things drawing power from the battery side of the ammeter but some convertible top pumps are connected at the battery side of the ammeter at the ammeter. Some platforms draw power for power windows on the battery side of the ammeter but are key switched via a relay.

 

[OCTAVIOUS]

I had posted this article over on Electrical Forum. Not inferring you battery might be at issue, but... Just some food for thought.
Seven Things That Go Wrong With Car Batteries

Top, yes And when I hit that switch guage drops for a second then recovers

Power windows, no