Ideas to get the balancer on the last 1/2" or so

[furious70]

I'm on it with a pipe on the end of my crescent while holding the crank still using an actual installer and I can't get it to budge anymore.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Pull it back off and hone the bore of the balancer...

 

[dadsbee]

You've got a burr on the key or keyway or something. Was it an original couple, or is this a new crank or dampner??

 

[furious70]

Used and used but new to each other

 

[dadsbee]

As Wild said, pull'm apart before you jam them any harder and figure out the issue. Bore to small, keyway too tight.. should pull right on with little effort.

 

[furious70]

Will remove to see if there's a bur

 

[furious70]

Took it back apart and checked for a Barb, I don't see anything that's catching, no mark of where the interference is. It goes in like butter then a hard stop. The bore looks just like another I have here, I guess I'll try that one. The original's rubber was bad

 

[snakeoil24]

Did you check the slinger is not on backwards.

 

[furious70]

Didn't have any of that apart, only took the balancer off to replace it

 

[beanhead]

Sounds like it needs honing, period......
That's how they make (most of) them, they have a little more clearance in the back to help get them going, but they need to be honed very slightly to get all the way home.

Most shops around here charge very little to do it. (My guy will do it for a Pepsi)

 

[Nate S]

Don’t happen to have the bolt from a small block by mistake? It’s a little longer and will bottom out right about there.

 

[furious70]

If I leave it like that my pulleys won't line up.
Unfortunately it's getting harder to find people who do little stuff like that around here, people are retiring.

 

[dvw]

Measure the crank. Measure the balancer bore. Read here.
https://www.enginelabs.com/news/establishing-proper-crank-hub-bore-diameter-with-ati-performance/
Doug

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Something like this with a bit of emery cloth & a die grinder will fix it in a few seconds....

https://www.zoro.com/climax-metal-p...jXTW32R-vajxN0lz3C1kjXaD7truRFJhoCslUQAvD_BwE

Personally I made mine, 1/4" shaft & a cutoff wheel in the same die grinder thats gonna spin the mandrel once it's made...

 

[beanhead]

If I leave it like that my pulleys won't line up.
Unfortunately it's getting harder to find people who do little stuff like that around here, people are retiring.

I can understand that. Well...another option, if the fit is the problem, is to hit it with a power drill and some fine grit a-la Roadkill Garage.....quickly and smoothly. One or two passes in and out should do it. Not the best way, but when that's all ya got....

 

[beanhead]

Something like this with a bit of emery cloth & a die grinder will fix it in a few seconds....

https://www.zoro.com/climax-metal-products-specialty-mandrel-hold-abrasive-sheets-sm-3-250/i/G9982323/feature-product?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping feed&utm_content=free google shopping clicks&gclid=CjwKCAjwpKCDBhBPEiwAFgBzj5V3t82g7Dq1rOj_Xpp3sfjXTW32R-vajxN0lz3C1kjXaD7truRFJhoCslUQAvD_BwE

Personally I made mine, 1/4" shaft & a cutoff wheel in the same die grinder thats gonna spin the mandrel once it's made...

That's basically the idea, the ol' "hone it at home" trick

 

[beanhead]

If I leave it like that my pulleys won't line up.
Unfortunately it's getting harder to find people who do little stuff like that around here, people are retiring.

Hey, are you actually certain it's not all the way on, and it just doesn't align the pulleys the same? Some aftermarket dampers do that too and it takes spacers and stuff or, some people even mill the balancer (I'd be getting something else if it came to that)....just a thought.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Measure the depth of from the back of the damper hub to the bolt surface & compare it to the original...

Not seating the damper fully has bigger problems than pulley alignment, the crank timing gear is now only indexed by the key... The key isn't designed to take the load of driving the camshaft, the clamping of the gear between the damper hub & the shoulder of the crankshaft is what drives the crank gear....

 

[furious70]

I wish I had the original here, it's at my house 4 hrs away. I'm sure back in Chicago I can take the old one and this one to someone and get the right size... That just doesn't align with my hopes of making progress while I was here.

 

[furious70]

Hey, are you actually certain it's not all the way on, and it just doesn't align the pulleys the same? Some aftermarket dampers do that too and it takes spacers and stuff or, some people even mill the balancer (I'd be getting something else if it came to that)....just a thought.

I compared it to another 383 I have here and it needs to go at least 3/8" more