Ignition switch/Voltmeter issue

[eagleone1983]

I've got an issue where sometimes my voltmeter will read 0 or just low like 12v or so. I can jiggle my key in the ignition switch and it'll jump back up to 14v. Obviously the issue is in the ignition switch but the car starts fine and runs great so it is just an indication issue or am I really losing charge? I know the ignition switch isn't the best and could probably be replaced but it's not so easy when you've got a '69 RR. Can these be rebuilt, maybe by JSRestorations? Is it easy to do yourself?

 

[Propwash]

Did you tap into the ignition switch wire for your voltmeter +12V power supply, or is the power coming from a different source, like the fuse box?

 

[eagleone1983]

Fuse box but I can't remember exactly where. I'll check it out when I get home.

 

[nm9stheham]

The switch is likley getting worn out and will get worse. Pretty common on these buggies. I would be getting ready to replace it. The switch itself is not hard, just a bit of work to get to it. If you do replace, look at the connector and the larger wires going in and out of it; if there are any signs of insulation discolored or swollen/hard, or the connector body is distored at all, then you have headed off a high resistance/heating problem that will get worse and worse.

(BTW, looking at your bylines... has the APN-59 radar been replaced in the KC-135's with a (relatively) newer one? I was one of the lead design engineers on the replacement radar about 20 years ago! I got to fly some test missions on the KC's out of Knoxville with the TN ANG.)

 

[eagleone1983]

The voltmeter is connected to the fuse box via the radio fuse section and is grounded to the same place the column is grounded to. The switch isn't hard to remove I built the dash myself but never tried to fix an old switch.

Yes the old APN-59 was replaced during the Pacer CRAG program. I can't remember what it went to something like the APN-2??. I'm just a traditional so it's hard to remember everything about the 135. My forte is the F-16 which I still work with as a civilian.

 

[Mopars & Missiles]

.....Can these be rebuilt, maybe by JSRestorations? Is it easy to do yourself?

Yes, you can rebuild/restore them yourself. After you have removed the switch from the car, you can very carefully pry the "staking" of the metal base back from the plastic switch and separate the two pieces. There is at least one, maybe two small springs inside so be careful not to lose them and make sure you take note of how they are placed inside. Once you have it open, just clean all the contacts and then re-lube them with some electrical grease before reassembly. You will have to get everything aligned properly again, then check all switch positions for continuity before you re-stake the plastic switch into the metal body. Make sure you have enough compression on the internal spring when you reassemble to ensure good electrical continuity between the switch contacts before you re-stake it. You will probably only get ONE chance to get it right, because the pot metal can only be "staked" a couple times before it fatiques and breaks. At that point, you are ready to purchase a new switch and toss your original.

 

[eagleone1983]

Well...now I'm scared to do it And I can't toss my original it's all they make

 

[nm9stheham]

I'm betting that if you work on F-16's it won't be an issue!

 

[eagleone1983]

LOL, probably not. I've never launched a jet that didn't come back broke.