mightymopar
Well-Known Member
Am looking for a source for the gasket behind the oil filter mounting plate on a 67 318. It doesn't have the right angle or anything, just bolts directly to the block.
leaking oil behind filter
- Thread starter mightymopar
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DART340H
Well-Known Member
O'Reillys had one in stock for mine.Part#70522 Felpro gasket. About 5 to 7 bucks? Make sure that you use a sealer when installing.
74360DUSTER
Well-Known Member
you can buy the gasket kit through mopar for $8.50
part# P5249320
i just bought one 2 weeks ago. was having same issue. i tried the oreilly one first. it did not seal. went to mopar and it sealed fine..
part# P5249320
i just bought one 2 weeks ago. was having same issue. i tried the oreilly one first. it did not seal. went to mopar and it sealed fine..
A383Wing
Well-Known Member
yea...don't know how I missed this thread, but the aftermarket gaskets for some reason have sealing issues.....I finally got one to seal by using "Right Stuff" sealer on both sides.....just a small film spread on the gasket
Bryan
Bryan
DART340H
Well-Known Member
Ialso used right stuff just to be safe.
Dako
Well-Known Member
Ahh...the dreaded oil filter base plate seal. It was my nemesis getting the 'KS Belle' on the road. I never did find a pre-maid seal sold by itself (Advance Auto; Autozone; Federated;...even NAPA!) for a small block. I ended up buying a roll of gasket material and using the base plate as a template cut out my own. It was a couple bucks, and still have most of it left.
I initially tried some Permatex Ultra Black with no paper seal. Worked for the break-in run, but then separated when the engine cooled. I then tried Hi-tack with a paper gasket. It leaked right away. Next I went back to the Ultra Black and paper gasket...but didn't wait the recommended 24 hrs. It leaked again. Finally I let the Ultra Black cure for 24 hrs and Walla!...No leaks!
The tricks with this one are:
1. Use a good sealant.
2. Use a gasket! since the block and mount plate will cool at different rates (different metals) the sealant will eventually separate from one of the surfaces.
3. Allow the sealant you use to cure completely(!) before attempting to leak check.
I re-did mine 3 times before I finally got it right (let it FULLY cure). At one point I thought I had a bad (plugged) filter; then, that my oil pan may be actually leaking; then, that my rear main may be leaking. Needless to say I ended up taking things apart that were fine in the pursuit of finding an oil leak that I was inducing myself.
Hopefully I have prevented someone from enduring the same headaches I did.
I initially tried some Permatex Ultra Black with no paper seal. Worked for the break-in run, but then separated when the engine cooled. I then tried Hi-tack with a paper gasket. It leaked right away. Next I went back to the Ultra Black and paper gasket...but didn't wait the recommended 24 hrs. It leaked again. Finally I let the Ultra Black cure for 24 hrs and Walla!...No leaks!
The tricks with this one are:
1. Use a good sealant.
2. Use a gasket! since the block and mount plate will cool at different rates (different metals) the sealant will eventually separate from one of the surfaces.
3. Allow the sealant you use to cure completely(!) before attempting to leak check.
I re-did mine 3 times before I finally got it right (let it FULLY cure). At one point I thought I had a bad (plugged) filter; then, that my oil pan may be actually leaking; then, that my rear main may be leaking. Needless to say I ended up taking things apart that were fine in the pursuit of finding an oil leak that I was inducing myself.
Hopefully I have prevented someone from enduring the same headaches I did.
mightymopar
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for the help. Got one from Advance Auto, sealed both sides with black RTV and worked fine. I did everything you did Dako, finally I did it right and it worked. Imagine that.
Warpspeed
Well-Known Member
Funny, how things that go around come back again. Never had a problem before, but, now it is not SEALING! Tried several things to make this thing stop leaking. I did't use the black sealant, but am going out to get more now. This is a pressure issue. I let the 'BLUE' ultra blue permatex sealant cure before trying to pump up the oil pressure and it held the first 24 hours, but, then it broke loose again. I bought a new gasket kit. Had to order it from someone in NY. Everyone tells me they are years in back order. So, why won't it work with the gasket kit.
Oh yeah, there are no instructions on how to place the cork seal. WHERE does it go. Inside the plate or outside. I placed it inside and figure that is why it wont' seal properly. You can't tighten it enough to properly seal the outside gasket. Then if you tighten it too much, then you can't get it off to try fixing it again. Then the seals are screwed up!!!! I can not win. Help!!!!
Oh yeah, there are no instructions on how to place the cork seal. WHERE does it go. Inside the plate or outside. I placed it inside and figure that is why it wont' seal properly. You can't tighten it enough to properly seal the outside gasket. Then if you tighten it too much, then you can't get it off to try fixing it again. Then the seals are screwed up!!!! I can not win. Help!!!!
bm02tj
Well-Known Member
That plate is like a tension washer when it gets old and relaxes it will leak
some times a thicker gasket will work and some times not
trial fit plate and if the centre bottoms out before you tighten you need a new one
some times a thicker gasket will work and some times not
trial fit plate and if the centre bottoms out before you tighten you need a new one
Warpspeed
Well-Known Member
I fixed it! Took the cork gasket out and replaced it at that location with Right Stuff. Then made a new gasket, the large round one for the plate, out of new gasket material. Sealed it with Right Stuff. Brother what a waste of time. The cork gasket would not let the big gasket seat. Even with our favorite Ultra Black wouldn't work! And I let it sit over night.
My Mopar dealership is having trouble getting the seal kits. So I reused the copper gasket, took out the cork gasket and made a new gasket for the outer "biggest" gasket. Solved the rest of the problem with Right Stuff.
Started the engine up and ran it a bit before shutting it down. My machine shop left the oil plug by the distributor shaft out when re-assemblying the engine. So we went through the whole engine breakin with oil pressure at 30 PSI. Then found out the oil filter plate and gaskets weren't holding. We would have dumped all my oil in thirty seconds during start up if the plug was in. Ran the engine this weekend finally after two weeks of chasing this leak to find out the engine seems to be running fine. Wow! I was scared to death that the cam would have been wiped out. But, I did apply a tremendous amount of grease and oil on the cam as I assembled it initially.
My Mopar dealership is having trouble getting the seal kits. So I reused the copper gasket, took out the cork gasket and made a new gasket for the outer "biggest" gasket. Solved the rest of the problem with Right Stuff.
Started the engine up and ran it a bit before shutting it down. My machine shop left the oil plug by the distributor shaft out when re-assemblying the engine. So we went through the whole engine breakin with oil pressure at 30 PSI. Then found out the oil filter plate and gaskets weren't holding. We would have dumped all my oil in thirty seconds during start up if the plug was in. Ran the engine this weekend finally after two weeks of chasing this leak to find out the engine seems to be running fine. Wow! I was scared to death that the cam would have been wiped out. But, I did apply a tremendous amount of grease and oil on the cam as I assembled it initially.
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