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Leaking Oil Pan

GetX'd

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I have a brand new deep sump 7 qt oil pan on a new stroker motor. Probably has maybe 100 miles on it. Wasn't leaking until just recently. Checked the bolts on the pan and they were all loose. Advice from a friend said not uncommon for the bolts to loosen after putting some miles on a new motor. Bottom line is I tightened them up carefully but can't get the very slow drip to disappear. Other advice suggested I try permatex silicone sealant on the bolts. Taking them out one by one - applying a coating then tighten in a zig zag pattern to a uniform tightness.

Anyone think this is a logical approach to a persistent drip? Anyone have a better idea? Appreciate any and all responses and advice.
 
How much has it reduced to? Maybe a few more heat cycles. Mine usually take a little snug at oil change time. Can you get at all of them? Let me know when you plan to do this as I will be calling your HOA.
 
How much has it reduced to? Maybe a few more heat cycles. Mine usually take a little snug at oil change time. Can you get at all of them? Let me know when you plan to do this as I will be calling your HOA.

Thanks Dennis I knew I could count on you....:). It's just a slow few drips a day. Wasn't even leaking before. Yeah the HOA - I'm going to have to attempt this mission under the cover of the predawn darkness.... And hope to go undetected. They do have patrols. I don't know if I can get at all of them or not - last attempted in MN a couple of weeks ago. The car arrives tomorrow afternoon for permanent life in CA. I'll begin the missions of oil change and drip refusal then. Already tried the snugging process - that's why the permatex. What do you think?
 
....Other advice suggested I try permatex silicone sealant on the bolts. Taking them out one by one - applying a coating then tighten in a zig zag pattern to a uniform tightness.

That's exactly what I did on mine, and it worked great. I gave the silicone plenty of time to cure before starting the engine again though. And yes, it is normal for the pan bolts to need re-torqued after a few heat cycles.
 
Others may have better advice. I'd try heat cycles begore anything else. I had a drain plug drop that annoyed me. Got a new magnetized one from Ehrenberg with new gasket. Still had to snug it pretty good to get it to stop. I go by feel and try not to over tighten.
 
Yeah the HOA - I'm going to have to attempt this mission under the cover of the predawn darkness.... And hope to go undetected. They do have patrols.

Are you saying that you are not allowed to work on your car at all on your own property? :(
 
Plug filler hole, dipstick, valve cover vents.
Pull a vacuum on the engine with the PCV line from another car and an extension hose.
Loosen all the oil pan bolts just a little.
Let the vacuum pull the silicone sealer into the gap, tighten the pan bolts,
then put everything back to normal.
I've sealed rear main seals this way, too.
 
Probably not necessary to say, but be sure to spray the bolts & holes with Brakleen before you apply the sealant.
 
Yes - Kiwi, unfortunately I'm/were not allowed to wok on cars - can't even wash them - on our own property. It's a very strict HOA indeed.

On the subject of the pan - yes I am running a windage tray. The pan gasket doesn't seem to be leaking. Although I guess if one or 2 of the bolts are leaking it would technically be the gasket. This permatex does t gEt hard and stays supple. ','
 
Most auto stores carry it. Near the engine degreaser and other chemicals. Chemicals are getting expensive as you will find out. Try for a 10% discount. Some like Napa and others take AAA or sometimes I get the cool tie (flames) discount .
 
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Pretty much the same as electrical parts or TB cleaner. All three degrease, evaporate quickly and leave no residue.
 
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