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Mopar Performance valve cover question

themechanic

Oklahoma is OK
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I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 440 last week. I had a hard time getting some of the hex head hold down bolts out since they sit so close to the valve cover wall. As you can see in the photo it was impossible to get a socket on there. I ended up using black socket head cap screws temporarily until I find a more stylish replacement.

IMG_0002.jpg

So, anyone have a good suggestion to replace the hex head bolts.

Thanks FBBO.
 
You can get stainless steel socket heads too....they look pretty good.
 
I have the same valve covers and can not get them to stop leaking oil all over my brand new black ceramic coated TTi headers.
They are real nice looking valve covers but, a lot off people are having trouble with leaks mine leak on both sides and yes! I also have clearance issues. SS arp valve cover bolts I believe the bolt heads are a bit smaller or original valve cover studs course threads going into head and fine threads on top.
Caution! not to over torque or the valve cover may crack.
 
A friend just went thru this. Same b.s. ended up with some 2" tall holddowns. Very narrow & allen head. Also they were black. Didn't look too bad actually. Might actually be used with studs. I'll do a little searching to see if I can recognize them.

- - - Updated - - -

Looked like these, only black.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-5337/overview/
 
YEP ! Same issue on my old motor ! I uset aluminum T bolts and the small mopar spreader washers.
Also Glued a Good thick cork gasket to the cover so it wouldn't leak.
 
Y'all that are having problems with leaks....is this with stock heads? Many times it's the casting that's rough or even porous that can be the problem. Also, what kind of gaskets are you using?
 
All cast valve covers leak. When you use stainless Steel fitting they make it worse. You need a washer under the heads of allen Bolts. I would get a et of Cometic gaskets. Use their glue or install with 3M Yellow Adhesive. No matter what you do with Aluminum covers they will leak with headers so close. The heat draws the oil out.
 
I used a stud kit for the 396 style engine, because they have extra studs and also used SS flange nuts. I also use a special palm ratchet to tighten them.
 
All cast valve covers leak. No matter what you do with Aluminum covers they will leak with headers

Sorry that you have had such crappy luck. I have found the cure:

The cast aluminum valve covers will seal as good or better than any other design, but you need to know a few tricks. First, use good gaskets, not flimsy rubber or cork. The black fibrous 1/4" thick gaskets from Fel Pro are a must. They are firm when new and seal better than anything else that I have tried. Not sure of the Part # but they are OEM replacements for a 1975 Imperial 440.
You need to lay a bead of RTV on the valve cover gasket rail, then set the gaskets on the covers. THEN I let the gaskets set up. After the gaskets are secure, I smear RTV between the VC and gaskets on the inside. This ensures that oil cannot get beyond the gaskets. At this point, the only place the oil can get out is from the space between the head and valve cover.
Not done yet, there is more.....
When setting the VC on the head, you will notice that the mounting holes in the VCs is bigger than the bolts, allowing the Valve Covers to move around. You want to put the bolts in loosely, then pull the VCs UP towards the intake while tightening. This ensures that the bottom gasket rail of the valve covers sits squarely on the head. I've found that the valve covers are a bit wider than the head and if the valve covers are allowed to sit too low, the bottom edge of the gasket is only about halfway on the head and the gasket distorts, allowing the leak. This is especially bad with rubber or cork because they are so flimsy.
Finally, I use special mounting bolts with a 5/16" head. They are easy to tighten with a socket and ratchet.
Merry Christmas.
 
With my M/T aluminum valve covers I used the stud kit from 440Source and glued cork gaskets to the valve covers. I take them on and off all the time fiddling with stuff and no leaks so far.

No if I could just get my breather situation figured out...
 
67Satty;909957813 Now if I could just get my breather situation figured out...[/QUOTE said:
Whats the issue there?
Sure... I have had some troubles with detonation, but I've had success in other areas. I run a PCV on the left side valve cover and a breather on the right side. Neither leak.
 
I have the same valve covers and can not get them to stop leaking oil all over my brand new black ceramic coated TTi headers.
They are real nice looking valve covers but, a lot off people are having trouble with leaks mine leak on both sides and yes! I also have clearance issues. SS arp valve cover bolts I believe the bolt heads are a bit smaller or original valve cover studs course threads going into head and fine threads on top.
Caution! not to over torque or the valve cover may crack.

I have read that most of these aluminum valve covers leak at the back due to the head casting. Mine leaked with cork gaskets. I used Moroso Perm-Align gaskets to get mine to seal; glued to cover with RTV and torqued them to 9 ft/lbs.
 
Do you have aluminum heads or cast iron heads? I have aluminum RPM edelbrocks.
 
I have read that most of these aluminum valve covers leak at the back due to the head casting. Mine leaked with cork gaskets. I used Moroso Perm-Align gaskets to get mine to seal; glued to cover with RTV and torqued them to 9 ft/lbs.

Grrr!:angryfire: I've got a slight oil drip at the back of the valve cover. Smokes a little until it's gone. I was hoping the expensive gaskets would solve the problem. I guess I'll have to try the suggestion above posted by Gregaory C (#13).
 
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