Need electrical help, please

[1badass69]

I have a 69 roadrunner, I can't for the life of me get my front running lights to work!!!, the blinkers and 4 ways work fine???, also my instrument panel fuse keeps blowing???, I didn't do anything, it just started happening, could it be in the turn signal switch???, any ideas would be welcome, trust me

 

[Jcharger]

I don't have a specific answer, but I know what I would do. I would look at the wiring diagram in the factory service manual (I believe you can look them up online - I bought mine from some place like amazon) and I would use a multimeter set to ohms to check for continuity and shorts, systematically working from the switches through the wires. I know it is a pain to approach it this way, but if someone does not pipe in and say it is the blah blah, it might be the only way to find the problem.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

I don't have a specific answer, but I know what I would do. I would look at the wiring diagram in the factory service manual (I believe you can look them up online - I bought mine from some place like amazon) and I would use a multimeter set to ohms to check for continuity and shorts, systematically working from the switches through the wires. I know it is a pain to approach it this way, but if someone does not pipe in and say it is the blah blah, it might be the only way to find the problem.

THAT



Or start thowing parts at it,,,,,,,,,

 

[moparedtn]

Been there, done that.
Here's the wiring diagrams:
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27
Pay specific attention to the instrument panel dimmer switch - Mopar used those as sort of a "junction" for a lot of the light wiring for the car.
Get out that volt/ohm meter and have at it!

 

[Sixpactogo]

Start by isolating the problem. Unplug your forward light harness at the firewall and see if you still have a ground on the instrument panel light circuit. If it goes away, you have a short in one of the running lights. If you still have a ground somewhere in the circuit, unplug the tail light harness at the left kick panel. By then you will know if the problem is under the dash or in the tail light circuit.

 

[1badass69]

Partial update, running lights working now, finally, black-yellow-tr wire was broken under the tape, how'd that happen I have no idea, next, tackle the fuse blowing issue, I'll be a contortionist by the time I'm done!!!!

 

[Sixpactogo]

I feel your pain. Been there and I know how frustrating it can be. Good Luck! It takes time and persistence.

 

[1badass69]

I have another question, as I'm taking out my dimmer switch, looking at the back of the instrument panel I noticed 2 empty terminals on the lower corner, one clearly says "red" the other doesn't say, are these needed? if so what attached? Anyone familiar

 

[moparedtn]

I have another question, as I'm taking out my dimmer switch, looking at the back of the instrument panel I noticed 2 empty terminals on the lower corner, one clearly says "red" the other doesn't say, are these needed? if so what attached? Anyone familiar

Consult your wiring diagram. Seriously.
Short of that, a pic would help us help you.

 

[Sixpactogo]

The only think I can think of off hand with the label "red" is the Ammeter terminal. Has yours been bypassed? or replaced with a volt meter?

 

[1badass69]

Here's a pic of the 2 terminals on the back of the instrument panel, does anything need to go on these? wiring diagram doesn't show...

 

[Sixpactogo]

What is on the on the front in that corner? The Amp gauge? It appears that your amp gauge is in that lower corner. It looks like it has been bypassed to me. Do you have a volt meter or amp meter mounted elsewhere?

 

[1badass69]

It is the amp gauge, there is an after market, oil, water, volt setup mounted under the dash, that makes sense, so if I took the after market gauges off, hook up positive to red terminal and I'm assuming the one on the right is ground...

 

[Sixpactogo]

I would not go back to the amp gauge unless you are putting your car back to original. You need to get a wiring diagram for your car. Basically your car had a red #12 wire from battery to the amp gauge stud marked red. and a black #12 from the alternator to the stud not labeled. Neither one are grounded. They only told you whether you were getting amp flow from the battery (if minus) or from the alternator (if plus) You are better off without all that current flow going thru your dash. There are tons of articles out there on this. Read up on it and then decide.

 

[1badass69]

Sounds good, I'm OK with leaving it right now, just trying to eliminate stuff to get my dash lights brighter...thanks for the replies....

 

[1badass69]

ok with the instrument cluster on the bench, what is the best way to test the dash light's?