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Need help with front suspension!

superbeedave

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Hi all, I am having a problem with my front suspension on my 69 Superbee with manual steering. I noticed some noises coming from the front end recently and it appears that the insides of my tires are hitting the stabilizer bar when turn all the way on both sides. Also the back side of the brake dust shield hits the bottom of the stabilizer links. I hade a front end alignment done a few months ago but it just started happening the last week or so. Been under car several times and can't come up with what could be causing it. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Dave
 
What size wheels ? what size tires ? what's the wheel offset ? Did you get an alignment spec sheet ? what was the toe-in set ?
 
What size wheels ? what size tires ? what's the wheel offset ? Did you get an alignment spec sheet ? what was the toe-in set ?
15x7 haven't changed size in 14 years, 2356015 same tire in 14 years, no offset I believe they are magnum 500 wheels, yes got an alignment spec sheet and looks good. Toe in left side is .12 degrees and right side is the same for a total of .24 degrees. Camber is left side .3 degrees right side .2 degrees. Caster is left side -.3 degrees and right side is -.7 degrees. Steer ahead is .00 this is from Tire Discounters which is ran by a friend of mine.
 
Your backspacing on the 15-inch magnums is likely 4.5 inches pretty standard. You are sure the tires hit the sway bar? Notice tire abrasion-damage? Does it appear as brand new abrading or some rubbing over a period of time? Looking at this tire clearance underneath is a real challenge as I found out when I was determining the max wheel/tires I could install on my '63 Fury. I took it to an alignment shop getting it up on the alignment rack on the swivel plates and found a lot more clearance than I thought. I put on a sway bar and thought this would be an issue and found no problem. As you have a friend doing alignment work, a nice bene, I'd say ask him to get it on their rack with someone inside turning wheels lock to lock to see everything moving in case there is some loose or broken linkage...do real soon if you're driving it as this could get much worse having no idea why this snag developed.
 
I wanted to add as WileERobby made mention of alignment specs, are the alignment spec's pert-near or on factory specs? The toe-in sounds a bit much; but not versed on this for your car. I had my car alignment altered that is max + castor to help with wheel recovery and wandering after putting on radials. This helped a lot.
 
hey back again superbeedave as I was wondering more about the toe-in spec's...this is not in degrees, it's inches. I've pasted the specs for a '69 Dodge FYI note the toe in. Your spec sheet from your friend should indicate toe in (inches)...
index.php
 
First of all, as stated, your wheels have offset, not ZERO offset. And toe-in is inches. BUT, remember, the original specs are for bias-ply tires. You have NEGATIVE caster, POSITIVE camber ... opposite of what you should be trying to get. Get as much positive caster as possible. Camber go 1/2 degree negative. Toe-in 1/8".
 
Great point, and beware...the alignment shops I used DON'T tell ya or think about this stuff! I had TWO different reputable shops who aligned to original specs after going with radials and 15-inch wheels after disk brake conversion. The 2nd time was more frustrating as I explained what should be factored and they still just aligned to original spec's. Then had to take car back in to have the adjustments re-done. Have no idea what's causing that abrading but think getting it up on an alignment rack is the best bet to see what is happening. In my case, the positive castor cured wheel recovery about 85-90% now (I have a steering box matter that should take care of the rest of this problem) and toe adjustments stopped the wandering issue. Drives like it never had before.
 
Thanks for all the replies guy's, I have a friend that will probably rebuild the front end for me early next spring.
 
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