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New bests for my bucket of bolts. lol

Roughbird72

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First race of the year for me & ran some new bests.
1st pass - 11.293 @ 121.49
3rd pass - 11.268 @ 121.17
unfortunately i was first round runner with a 11.37 in 11.50 index class. lol
need to figure out which way to go to slow it down a bit.
 
Good job with your new et's

To slow it "right onto your Dial In" buy and install an ET GENIE adjustable restrictor plate. Google "ET Genie" and you will find the company.
Almost everyone in California runs them and it allows you to dial in almost exactly to your Dial. It install like a "1 inch" spacer under your carb and it has "slides" that restricts airflow and is fully adjustable with a ratchet wrench and dial indicator. Costs about $400
 
I think it will be a little more cost effective for me to add some ballast &/or run one of my smaller carbs.
I also have a throttle stop i've never used.
 
You can take out a bit of timing, fatten up the carb a bit, change the advance in the distributor, leave at a lower rpm....the list goes on and most of them doesn't take any money to do. I like the ET Genie too but those are usually for the really fast guys trying to run in the Super classes. So far I haven't run into anyone that uses one in the slower classes but one thing I never like to do is add weight to slow down. To me, it just adds stress to everything in the car. Besides, you would probably have to add 100+ lbs to the car.
 
Adding 100# would be easy for me.
I can add more fuel(only had 5-6 gallons in the tank) & I have probably 200# of plumbers lead i can mold into weights & bolt in the trunk( the spare tire mount will work for that). backing off the timing may help.
I was shifting at only 5,600 to run 11.30s
 
What does it run if you shift lower, say around 5k? How bout if you left at an idle? Mine didn't make much difference leaving at an idle or stalled up to 4500.....only .01 so I left at an idle unless I thought I needed the extra .01. The car was faster but it wasn't consistent when it was tuned up to the max so I detuned it until it became that way and then I was able to leave the dialin on the window race after race :)
 
I've never tried shifting as low as 5000, 1st gear would definitely be short lived since the converter flashes at 3800.
I'm leaving at around 1800-2000. Backing the total off would probably be the easiest/safest bet, i'm running 38° total now.
I'm currently running a 850dp & thought about trying one of the 3310s i have.
Adding a bunch of weight definitely would put more stress on the drivetrain.
Maybe i should just try a little of everything & go from there.
 
A larger carb usually makes your launch softer than a smaller carb but generally, will run harder on the top end while a smaller carb will launch harder while being slower on the top.
 
Congrats on the run

many ways to slow them down

changing your launch & shift points don't cost anything

a good driver can do it easily, without all the electronics gizmos too

even a mechanical throttle stop works well too

good luck & happy Moparing
 
It's not often that you hear about someone complaining that their car is running too fast. :lol:

Nice times, and good luck with the speed restriction. :thumbsup:
 
Here in California 75% of the racers running bracket classes use the ET Genie....including cars running in the 9.00 to 11.99 bracket and also the cars running in the 12.00 to 16.00 bracket.
Of the guys in A Gas (7.60 heads up), B Gas (8.60 heads up), C Gas (9.60 Heads up), D Gas (10.60 heads up) and E Gas (11.60 heads up) 100% of those guys run the ET Genie. Benefit is you run your car at full throttle but the ET Genie restricts the Air Flow and the motor thinks it is smaller and runs not as fast. You can keep track of the Air Density, temp, etc, etc, from race to race and check and see what setting you had on your ET Genie at your last race and adjust it from there to run almost EXACTLY THE same ET from race to race. Now...if you want to be serious about Bracket Racing and be consistant then you might consider spending the $400 bucks to do that...just saying.

rest 2 (2).jpg plate part closed.jpg View attachment 334705
 
Fab a mount to use 3/8x24 bolt as a positive stop. Then learn how much movement it takes to slow it up. Won 2 championships and quite a few races in N/SS using this simple, cheap, and effective method.
Douh
 
Thanks guys!
I do have a manual throttle stop, but have never used it ... maybe i should give it a whirl.
Yeh, slowing a street/strip car down just doesn't seem right :lol:
The car was running good, not bad for a 906 headed 440 in a 3800# car.

The Heads Up Street series they started at the local track is more of a SnG kinda thing, sorta modeled after Kil-Kare's Friday Night Lightz. It's an arm drop race, except for Unlimited 1/8 mile(.400 pro tree). The index classes are for those of us that don't have the budget to build 9 second & quicker street cars.
 
Thanks guys!
I do have a manual throttle stop, but have never used it ... maybe i should give it a whirl.
Yeh, slowing a street/strip car down just doesn't seem right :lol:
The car was running good, not bad for a 906 headed 440 in a 3800# car.

The Heads Up Street series they started at the local track is more of a SnG kinda thing, sorta modeled after Kil-Kare's Friday Night Lightz. It's an arm drop race, except for Unlimited 1/8 mile(.400 pro tree). The index classes are for those of us that don't have the budget to build 9 second & quicker street cars.
I'll can tell you if you do your home work you can move the car .01. And you're correct it runs good with 906 heads at that weight.
Doug
 
I put the throttle stop on it.
I'll see if it fixes my "problem" the next time at the track.
 
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Congrats on your new best ! Ron
 
Well ... Before we got rained out last night, i slowed it to 11.36 @ 119.98 on the first pass. 5 turns(1/4") in on the throttle stop.
 
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