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New Suspension and Disc Brakes on a '68 Sat

BDubz

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Hello all,

I was originally thinking of just upgrading to disc brakes, but the more I thought about it I decided it would be a good time to upgrade the suspension as well.

I am looking to change out the front/rear suspension and upgrade from drum to disc brakes. I am new to all of this and am looking for some good advice on what products to look at. Are there any suspension options that are strictly bolt-on, or will welding be required?

I thank you all in advance for the assistance.

BDubz
 
what type of upgrades you looking at?

upgraded disc brakes bolt on :
* wildwood
* ssbc
* few other options if you google or someone else chimes in

Suspension:

* just shock upgrades options are, hotchkis, bilstein etc.
* major upgrades: hotchkis, magnumforce, RMS, etc.
 
If you want to stay original use Spice/Raybestos Blue Professional Series.
 
Last edited:
Strange makes a disc brake kit also.
 
what type of upgrades you looking at?

upgraded disc brakes bolt on :
* wildwood
* ssbc
* few other options if you google or someone else chimes in

Suspension:

* just shock upgrades options are, hotchkis, bilstein etc.
* major upgrades: hotchkis, magnumforce, RMS, etc.

I want to modernize the suspension. When doing my research are there any key parameters that I need to be thinking about before making a decision on a product? Or, are they all pretty similar in functionality? What are the better makers in the market?

Thanks again to everyone.

Regards,
BDubz
 
wilwood would be one of the top notch brands that bolts on, lesser known brands that bolt on are not too bad either.
 
Doing the suspension and disc brake swap all at once is the best way to go. From that point it's almost the sky's the limit. With my build the parameters kept escalating, 'cause once you upgrade one component then you want to keep going. Some big picture parameters: how large are your wheels and your budget; your skill level; stock vs. resto-mod.
For the brakes, here's a link to a thread I posted on the subject:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?81037-Disc-brake-conversion-odyssey

I went with PST for my suspension purchase - they are a FBBO vendor and good guys to deal with. If you want to keep your suspension basically stock a few upgrade suggestions would include moving up to the 11/16" tie rods with a solid adjuster, LCA stiffening plates (requires welding), tubular A arms, larger torsion bars, Bilstein (or comparable) shocks. Then there's the whole poly vs. rubber bushing debate - do a search in this forum and you'll find a lot of threads on the subject.
While you're at it, consider having your steering box rebuilt by Firm Feel. I had them rebuild mine to Stage III specs; haven't installed it yet.
The next step would be reinforcing the K member and installing subframe connectors, but that requires welding and partial dis-assembly of the car. See what I mean - it keeps going and going....
It sounds like you're taking the time to think this through, which is the most important part.

BTW, where in NorCal are you located?
 
Doing the suspension and disc brake swap all at once is the best way to go. From that point it's almost the sky's the limit. With my build the parameters kept escalating, 'cause once you upgrade one component then you want to keep going. Some big picture parameters: how large are your wheels and your budget; your skill level; stock vs. resto-mod.
For the brakes, here's a link to a thread I posted on the subject:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?81037-Disc-brake-conversion-odyssey

I went with PST for my suspension purchase - they are a FBBO vendor and good guys to deal with. If you want to keep your suspension basically stock a few upgrade suggestions would include moving up to the 11/16" tie rods with a solid adjuster, LCA stiffening plates (requires welding), tubular A arms, larger torsion bars, Bilstein (or comparable) shocks. Then there's the whole poly vs. rubber bushing debate - do a search in this forum and you'll find a lot of threads on the subject.
While you're at it, consider having your steering box rebuilt by Firm Feel. I had them rebuild mine to Stage III specs; haven't installed it yet.
The next step would be reinforcing the K member and installing subframe connectors, but that requires welding and partial dis-assembly of the car. See what I mean - it keeps going and going....
It sounds like you're taking the time to think this through, which is the most important part.

BTW, where in NorCal are you located?

Hello CoronetDarter,

I have seen that thread, I am going to read through it again. I feel like my biggest obstacle is purely lack of experience, but you have to start somewhere.

I am in San Rafael.

Regards,
BDubz
 
I hear you BDubz. I've been messing around with Mopars for years, but as far as rebuilding entire suspensions, brake assemblies, etc., this is my first rodeo. I couldn't have done it without this site and all the members willing to help out. And the FSM is a must-have too. Good luck.
 
if your mechanically minded, doing your suspension and brakes is quite easy.

just check for no binding in suspensions, make sure calipers are mounted correctly and right way up with bleeder at top, just the standard stuff, pretty simple really especially when you have a bolt in kit
 
If you have any questions about the products that we offer for your mopar let me know. I will be more than happy to give you some various options.

Thanks
James
 
I went with the MP disc conversion for the front on my 69. Rebuilt the front end with PST Polygraphite bushings and all new tie rods and idler arm. Used aluminum adjusters for the tie rods as well as aluminum strut rods. Now I am considering the the RMS Alterkation front end.
Anyone with any experience with that set up would love to hear about it.
 
I have the magnumforce unit, IMO is better than the RMS, but i hear the RMS does well too if you are set on it.

the magnumforce is made out of chromoly tubing same as drag cars and race cars, everyone whines about the design putting too much load on shock towers but there is options to not have this and to be honest unless your going over jumps it will not cause a problem. where the alterkation is just your standard mild steel box tube.
and is plain ugly
 
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