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Oil leak..

Sweet5ltr

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Swapped camshafts 3 times, and every time the timing chain cover/oil pan has leaked out the bottom. What is the remedy for this? The last time we installed the cam, we didn't even use a gasket; we just used RTV and loaded it up. Waited a few days to crank it up, and slowly but surely the leak is back.. What type of sealant is necessary to keep it from leaking?
 
The way the engine is made the dead nuts correct by the book way to do it is with the oil pan removed. In other words, upon assembly of the engine, the oil pan is installed after the timing cover. So, that means, to correctly remove the timing cover, the oil pan should be removed. Likewise, to correctly install the timing cover, the oil pan should be the last piece installed. I am sure some will argue, but they will remain wrong.
 
So is dropping the pan and installing an entire new oil pan gasket the only way to get the car to not leak?
 
Rusty is right in the that pan is designed to go on after the timing cover but can be done without removing the pan. They even have just the front part of the pan gasket to do this. I've done it a few times without removing the pan and didn't have any leaks. Just got to make sure everything is real clean. I use "The Right Stuff" which is great for sealing but no so great if you need to remove it again.
 
we have used just the front gasket two times with RTV and the last time with only RTV. I believe also it could be the 7 quart pan not sealing up with bolts that press it into the lower timing chain cover. I will check out "the right stuff" and load' it' up' when I fix the leak again.
 
Keep in mind that the gasket is what seals it. The cement is just to hold the gasket in place. Gooping cement all over the place is not going to help. Adding a small drop of RTV silicone at the corners (end of gaskets) helps. RTV silicone is different. It should be used without a gasket, laying a neat even bead and letting it sit a couple of minutes before joining the parts. Make sure both mating surfaces are super clean and flat.
 
Keep in mind that the gasket is what seals it. The cement is just to hold the gasket in place. Gooping cement all over the place is not going to help. Adding a small drop of RTV silicone at the corners (end of gaskets) helps. RTV silicone is different. It should be used without a gasket, laying a neat even bead and letting it sit a couple of minutes before joining the parts. Make sure both mating surfaces are super clean and flat.

We used RTV gasket maker. Not an Amateur. Understand that placing an entire new oil pan gasket would probably work, but I am not pulling the engine to install a 'complete' oil pan gasket. The little cut to fit gasket and RTV has not worked-twice. Always had an oil residue, but nothing like it is now where it is actually dripping. Going to try out "the right stuff" and see if it makes a difference. Thanks everyone.
 
are you running the disc type oil slinger on the crank? when i have a problem engine with a front seal leak and i have checked all other things i find one of those and run it.
 
How tight are you torquing the pan bolts? The spec is not very tight. You can over torque them very easily and bend the pan. If the pan bends, it will actually contact the block, pinching the gasket. If not corrected, it will continue to leak until you straighten each bolt hole with a small ball peen hammer carefully on a vise. What happens is, when the pan is bent at each bolt hole, it no longer tightens the gasket enough to seal, because the pan is against the block. Inspect the pan very carefully at each bolt hole. If the bolt holes appear the slightest bit concave, there's your problem.
 
yes, running the oil slinger. Car never really had a noticeable leak before, was just 'wet'. Last cam swap it started leaking, enough to have oil droplets under the car. We will figure something out. Doesn't really bother me, just hate working on oily parts under the car!
 
whew.. Found the oil leak, and it wasn't the timing chain cover. Oil leak was at the fuel pump. Installed a new oil pan gasket anyways, already had the torsion bars out, motor mounts undone, and steering loose installing the new headers.
 
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