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Pro Bracket Radials vs. Bias slicks

bobtile

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Anyone have a good comparison on PBR vs slicks?
Im going to need new tires soon and Im contemplating a switch.
I run 31 10.5 15 slicks now but looks like they only make a 29.5 10.5 15 in radials.
Car is 3160 with 4.56 gears. I run the 31's now to keep trap rpm to 7500.
 
Anyone have a good comparison on PBR vs slicks?
Im going to need new tires soon and Im contemplating a switch.
I run 31 10.5 15 slicks now but looks like they only make a 29.5 10.5 15 in radials.
Car is 3160 with 4.56 gears. I run the 31's now to keep trap rpm to 7500.
What rear suspension are you running?
 
I run both. I am limited to a 275 60 radial and a 28x10.5 slick. I pick up mph with the radial. If your car is set up correctly and doesn't have a problem hooking, radials are a touch faster. Jmho.
 
I used to run radials but run bias now. Radials about a 10th quicker on my car and nice and stable on the top end.
They are not great on marginal prepped tracks though. Also, in my big Charger I never got the life out of them that I would have liked to see. On average I only got 60 passes compared to well over 100 on a set of bias.
There is a couple at our local track who have had opposite experience to what I have had.
As a bracket racer, I’ll take the sure thing and give up ET and MPH to remain consistent.

My $0.02.

IMG_3474.jpeg
 
I carry both PBR and stiff walled bias M/T 29.5x10.5 in my trailer. PBR are definitely quicker by about a tenth. I run caltrac's with viking da rear shocks. I have to have the rebound and compression tightened up for the PBR, last several races different tracks, I have not had any traction problems. 20 psi in the PBR's 1.41 60ft's 10.30's
 
I've heard similar results with a tenth quicker and not as consistent on a marginal prep.
I've never really had much trouble hooking with slicks on an assortment of different tracks.
I suppose if you're after a number on a good track the radial are a good bet.
 
For a class car that has to be as fast as possible.... pbr.
For a bracket racer who might encounter crummy track prep, (and because you need/want the height...) the bias slicks you've been running
 
Hoosier makes a 10.5x31 radial. They were previously marked 11.5x31. They changed the sidewall designation. The guys running N/SS with them have nothing but good things to say about them. Duell's Wagon has been 1.22 60ft off the foot brake on them. I'm going to get a pair when I need tires.
18860DBR 31.0/10.5 WR15 Drag Slick 11.5" 31.4" 98.75" 12-14" 14.0" 16.0" Drag Bracket Radial
Doug
 
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.....and I don't think the radials grow as much as bias. You might be unhappy with two inches less height in the lights, and an extra 300 (?) rpm.
Thats a good point.
 
the 29.5x10.5 PBR is 30"tall . I have run them since 2018 used he 28x10.5 before that . I bracket race so prep not always the best , i can probably count on one hand how many times i have flat spun . Though i do occasionaly get a semi spin where tyre walks out /chirps . No growth in diameter . Foot braking currently though have used tb @ 4500 no problems . Generally @ 18psi , radial front tyres . Normally 140-160 passes . No John Force burnout , but , more than just a quick spin to clean .

Tex
 
Hoosier makes a 10.5x31 radial. They were previously marked 11.5x31. They changed the sidewall designation. The guys running N/SS with them have nothing but good things to say about them. Duell's Wagon has been 1.22 60ft off the foot brake on them. I'm going to get a pair when I need tires.
18860DBR 31.0/10.5 WR15 Drag Slick 11.5" 31.4" 98.75" 12-14" 14.0" 16.0" Drag Bracket Radial
Doug
They look to be marked 10.5 W, (so still really 11.5). If Bobtile has room for the extra inch, might be a compromise solution.
 
With a 4 link you will be able to adjust the car to run the radial tire. But I don’t doubt it will take some adjusting to get it to work especially on marginally prepped tracks. The big thing with radials compared to a bias ply slick (and I’m sure you’ve read this) is the bias ply slick can spin and recover on a marginal track. Once a radial spins, it’s game over. That is due to the sidewall construction of a radial vs bias ply slick. At least from the research I have done. I have not been bold enough to try a radial but I also am not trying to get every bit of ET out of my car as I’m bracket racing. And my car is most consistent at the 60’ marker with my Hoosier stiff sidewall slick using a tube as well.

I would expect if you switch to a radial your bottom bar will have to be adjusted to pointing uphill as opposed to flat or slightly downhill depending on how you have it set up now.
 
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