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Pulled my interior the check floor

Wietse

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Hey all,

Today i made a start to check and preserve the inside of the car so pulled all interior and the carpet.
Rust found is not bad at all, some places on the passenger side have some pitting but to me not worth it to replace the sheet metal.
See below pictures, i did notice sealant running across the bottom against the fire wall and near the rear seat foot well.
I wonder is this because the floor has been replaced before or is this originally like that?

Oh yeah, by the looks i think the car originally was R6 red??

IMG_8267.jpg IMG_8268.jpg IMG_8269.jpg IMG_8271.jpg IMG_8272.jpg IMG_8274.jpg IMG_8275.jpg IMG_8276.jpg IMG_8277.jpg IMG_8278.jpg
 
Wire brush and POR15.
 
Wire brush and POR15.
Agreed. That floor is actually pretty decent - and yes, the factory often slathered sealant on seams like that.
Clean 'er up real good, then lay the POR-15 to it. Done deal.
 
I've made a start at the passenger foot well and removed all the old sealant, which was very brittle and dry.
Not much rust to be found underneath that as well.

Is POR15 a rust inhibitor (rust killer) which can be painted over with any paint?
After painting i want to lay in this heat & noise insulator.
For now i will not start behind the dash, i will pull that later and do the same there.
I will do this in reasonable sections instead of pulling everything.
Guess i will make a restoration thread to keep this going with pictures etc.
 
POR15 works ok, but only on rusted metal. It will not adhere to anything else. If you haven't bought it yet, check out Rust Bullet. It works much better, sticking to any properly cleaned metal. Either of them can be painted over.
 
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POR15 works ok, but only on rusted metal. It will not adhere to anything else. If you haven't bought it yet, check out Rust Bullet. It works much better, sticking to any properly cleaned metal. Either of them can be painted over.
Unless they've changed the formula since last I used it, it adheres to anything metal you paint it on, rusted or not. It pretty much remains clear on unrusted areas and it all cures evenly, ready for whatever you'd like to finish coat on top if desired.
Notice it can also be applied to non-metal surfaces as well:
http://www.por15.com/POR-15_Rust_Preventive_Coating
 
POR15 works ok, but only on rusted metal. It will not adhere to anything else.
With all due respect, I beg to differ there.
I painted my brake rotors, calipers, rear drums and 8-3/4 pumpkin with that stuff nearly 18 years ago, and it still looks mint.
My wife was none-too happy about the brake deal.....I 'cured' the paint in our oven inside the house. Man that stuff stunk for a week or so. :D

...and it was done on either wire-wheels or freshly blasted surfaces.
 
With all due respect, I beg to differ there.
I painted my brake rotors, calipers, rear drums and 8-3/4 pumpkin with that stuff nearly 18 years ago, and it still looks mint.
My wife was none-too happy about the brake deal.....I 'cured' the paint in our oven inside the house. Man that stuff stunk for a week or so. :D

...and it was done on either wire-wheels or freshly blasted surfaces.
Yessir. If you've ever used it before - you know, as you and I have.
If not, sometimes incorrect assumptions are sometimes made.
 
Thx all for the advice.
I ordered a full kit of POR 15, degreaser, metal prep, rust preventer and a top coat.
Now need to get going and get the damn floor ready :)
 
If you havent already look at the wiper arm pivots. The gaskets that go around the shaft get brittle and dry up allowing water to enter the interior hence floor board rust. Have some one hold a running water hose over the wiper arm pivots and see if they leak. Hate to see you go through all of this work and have same problem. After you grind and paint your floor boards, you might want to get some Wurth seam sealer and reapply to seams.
 
With all due respect, I beg to differ there.
I painted my brake rotors, calipers, rear drums and 8-3/4 pumpkin with that stuff nearly 18 years ago, and it still looks mint.
My wife was none-too happy about the brake deal.....I 'cured' the paint in our oven inside the house. Man that stuff stunk for a week or so. :D
...and it was done on either wire-wheels or freshly blasted surfaces.
I guess I never tried it on porous metals. I did use it on a new gas tank and floor pans. All were scuffed and degreased. 6 months later, it would peel off in strips. Maybe I didn't have it prepped good enough, but I thought so. I do remember several years ago Propwash and a few others having the same issues as me.
 
Agree with the Paint Over Rust. From those pics your floor looks good.
 
With all due respect, I beg to differ there.
I painted my brake rotors, calipers, rear drums and 8-3/4 pumpkin with that stuff nearly 18 years ago, and it still looks mint.
My wife was none-too happy about the brake deal.....I 'cured' the paint in our oven inside the house. Man that stuff stunk for a week or so. :D

...and it was done on either wire-wheels or freshly blasted surfaces.
I am just going to add that POR-15 is a brand, and it has many different sub-products - so it depends what ones we are talking about. The one I used was for high temperature and rust prevention application.
 
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