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quandry

Randy73

Well-Known Member
Local time
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Joined
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Here it is, I can get a non-numbers matching 71 Super Bee, w/400 auto in good running shape but some rust on both quarters and floor pan for 5500 or
I can get a 73 Rallye w/numbers matching 340 auto, absolutely no rust, but needs carb or rebuild, front fender and bumper and dash pad for 5100.

I wish I could get both, but can only afford one.

But which one?
 
Is it a 73 rallye charger or challenger

I vote for -73 Rallye w/numbers matching :icon_pidu: Your going to save alot of money on bodywork-
 
I have a 1970, '71 and up are not my favorites but I prefer the deeper grille, the rear bumper and the rear side glass shape. If I was choosing I'd pick for body shape and style regardless of big, small or matching. Gotta love the car you buy, like a woman it's going to take up alot of your time and money.
 
Both are Chargers and I pretty sure I am going to go with the Rallye.

Forgot, the Rallye has a stuck lifter or atleast it sounds like a lifter.
 
Sounds like the rallye is a better deal even with it needing some possible motor work. The 400 in the Bee might need it too, you just don't know it. Rust free has its benefits, now and down the road.
 
Sounds like the rallye is a better deal even with it needing some possible motor work. The 400 in the Bee might need it too, you just don't know it. Rust free has its benefits, now and down the road.

Thanks I forgot, 400 was rebuilt last summer. But I just put in an offer on the Rallye.
 
a "400" in a 1971 Super Bee is not factory . It probably had the base 300 hp 383 originally , but someone replaced it with a 400 ( '72 - '78 motor ) .

Not knocking the 400 ; just letting you know that the 400 wasn't available in "B" Bodies until 1972 .
 
Take a magnet to all the "rust Prone" areas on the charger to ensure it is in fact rust free....cover it with a piece of felt if the paint is real nice so you dont scratch it. But I would crawl all around, inside and out of a "rust free" car before making an offer, I have seen quite a few cars that were proclaimed rust free that in fact were bondo filled cancer cars with a nice paint job to cover it all up the body, and a thick black tar-like crap on the undercarriage. Just do your homework thats all Im saying
 
Take a magnet to all the "rust Prone" areas on the charger to ensure it is in fact rust free....cover it with a piece of felt if the paint is real nice so you dont scratch it. But I would crawl all around, inside and out of a "rust free" car before making an offer, I have seen quite a few cars that were proclaimed rust free that in fact were bondo filled cancer cars with a nice paint job to cover it all up the body, and a thick black tar-like crap on the undercarriage. Just do your homework thats all Im saying

That tar like crap, as you call it , was an undercoating you could have put on by a shop in the late 70's through the 80's. worked good unless something took the coating off.
There is a little surface rust in the trunk and rear seat area, going to take care of that first, well right after I get the engine running good.
 
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I am picking up the Rallye Monday, I will post picks.

For those who might want the Super Bee, it is in Shreveport, La.
Guy seems deperate, he called me 4 times over the last 2 days, he is asking 5500. I got picks today, car is actually in better shape than he descibed, 400 was just rebuilt, new dash pad and he says he has a couple of boxes of parts he has not put on yet.
If you IM me, w/your email, I will send pics to you.

BTW: something is going on with his wife, think that is the reason for the sale. Not sure of the reason.
 
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