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Question about a Dana 60 Vs 8 3/4

Mopar_Mike

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Building a 67 Coronet 1/4 mile car. I have a 67 Dana 60 3.54 gears all stock I was thinking of using. I know the 3.54's are not ideal, but its a dana. I do not want to change around the dana though as its a good original piece. Probably looking at 475-500 HP 440 with 727, will a new 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears, spool and 35 spline axles hold up? Thinking of using Dr. Diff. OR just go with the dana as-is. I am looking to run 11.5-11.99 Thanks.
 
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Building a 67 Coronet 1/4 mile car. I have a 67 Dana 60 3.54 gears all stock I was thinking of using. I know the 3.54's are not ideal, but its a dana. I do not want to change around the dana though as its a good original piece. Probably looking at 475-500 HP 440 with 727, will a new 8 3/4, back braced? with 3.91 gears, spool and 35 spline axles hold up? Thinking of using Dr. Diff. Thanks.

I think it takes >800 HP and a manual transmission to break an 8.75 rear end. My vote, is it will hold up fine even with 4.89s.
 
Yes. The spooled setup in an 8 3/4" is certainly tough enough for your setup and HP estimates. As well as be lighter with less rotating weight loss. But be wary if you do much street driving? Careful around corners. One harder press of the gas pedal will kick the back end out and into the ditch faster than you can say "Maybe I shouldn't have done that."
 
A well built 8-3/4" will hold up to the level of power you're talking about
truss the back of it, don't need to go crazy, so it won't bend,
& also fully weld the perches for the springs too
maybe get some Calvert/CalTracs, just put some preload in them
when you go to the track

Obviously the Dana-60 is better, just do a gear change not that big of a deal
if you want to go with the Dana,
can use your 8-3/4" brakes/drums backing plates usually too
you will need to change the length of the driveshaft shorter (like 1-1/2" measure it to be sure)
go to 1350 U-strap bolts type universals &/or maybe the yoke too probably
unless it already has the 2790 big universals, like the later years of 8-3/4" muscle cars have
then should be just shortened/balanced

Building a 67 Coronet 1/4 mile car. I have a 67 Dana 60 3.54 gears all stock I was thinking of using. I know the 3.54's are not ideal, but its a dana. I do not want to change around the dana though as its a good original piece. Probably looking at 475-500 HP 440 with 727, will a new 8 3/4 with 3.91 gears, spool and 35 spline axles hold up? Thinking of using Dr. Diff. OR just go with the dana as-is. I am looking to run 11.5-11.99 Thanks.
all good mods
'spool' if you pan of street driving, much at all, isn't the best idea
I've done it, but it's not ideal
 
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The most important question is missing, what does the car Weigh going down the track?
Go to the track and ask some racers that go racing this question. Look under their b-body racecars, you will see a Dana or plans of one. At 800 horsepower an 8 3/4 would be gone in a season, short season.

I broke many 8.3/4 3.91 Suregrios on a 3825lb 12.70 bracket car with slicks. 300 runs, they start making noise then the break soon. They are not that great for a racecar.

3.54's won't work.

Buy a new Dana for the racecar and get it built to your specs at Dr. Diff.
 
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I think it takes >800 HP and a manual transmission to break an 8.75 rear end. My vote, is it will hold up fine even with 4.89s.
This 800 horsepower is just a foolish idea
Tell us you don't race without telling us.
 
My opinion is you won't break a 8 3/4 with less than 650 HP and an automatic. So you're 475-550 HP estimate is good for any application. A spool or slicks on the street, is a no.
 
I sold an OEM 69 b body 4.10 Dana to a restoration guy at a price to basically buy an S60.
If I were you I'd sell the OEM Dana and get it in the hands of a resto guy who needs it and then buy aftermarket as you need. Or at the current power level used 8 3/4 stuff will be fine
 
I think it takes >800 HP and a manual transmission to break an 8.75 rear end. My vote, is it will hold up fine even with 4.89s.
we ran 513`s and 538`s in the hemi back in the day , with an 8 3/4 , ended up blowing one every other week end ,went to a Dana 60 never blew another one , its still the car...
 
A new 8 3/4 setup will cost the same as a new D60. Just spring for a fresh D60 with the gears you want and forget about the diff. Or spend the same on an 8 3/4 and worry about it.
 
Also.. the D60 is very tight with a stock gas tank. With the stock smooth cover
 
I have gone 11.teens with a 3.91 8 3/4 with stock 30 spline axles, a Detroit locker, and 10.5x28 slicks.
At your power levels and ET desires, you will not hurt an 8 3/4 with spool and good axles.
Be aware of what you are doing on the street, you should be fine if you respect the possibility of a serious OOOPS!
Edit: this is supposing you already HAVE the 8 3/4 stuff. If not? The Dana, 100%
If you have a Dana, and would have to buy an 8 3/4, I wouldn't spend a dollar on the 8 3/4 stuff.
A gear change in the Dana will be way cheaper than buying an 8 3/4.
 
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All these ET's and figures but no car weight. That's is the important number. A2500 lb car the 8.75 will last much longer.

B bodoes are heavy unless on a serious weight reduction plan.

A Dana you do it once, not over and again.
 
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