RB Rear Main Seal

[500stroker]

I am wanting to replace my leaking rear main seal in my RB Block engine.
Anyone got any helpful hints?
Is there a particular seal manufacture that produces a seal that really works?
Does the type/choice of oil make any difference ?
I want to get this right on the first shot, if you have some real world experience with big block rear main seals please respond.
Thanks in advance

 

[GetX'd]

I'm not the guy that did it but I remember my engine builder saying he tried several rear main brands including the expensive ones - w/o success. He went back to the old school rope style and it worked great for him. Just a thought.

 

[uwss]

Just fixed mine; buy the billet retainer with the 2 seals on each side, offset the "red" rear main seal so one sticks out slightly, and do the same on the opposite side( the one that goes under the crank) I used loctite 518 to glue the ends. I used high heat copper RTV on the corners and sides. Be sure to lubricate the new Vitron seals with oil. the old ones will easily push out. Make sure your clean all the metal surfaces so there is NO oil residue on anything you are using RTV.

You will most likely have to loosen the main bearing cap next to the retainer in order to pull the old one out. There are 2 types of billet retainers so either one will work. One type uses a different side seal as mentioned above; this is what I used.
Make sure you clean the block and oil pan so no oil residue is left. Put the copper RTV on the oil pan using your finger and spread it out nice and neat all over the flange. Install a felpro oil pan gasket and put copper RTV on the block. Push the oil pan up and put a couple of bolts in it to hold it up temporarily . Install your bolts and torque to 30 ft. lbs. Let the RTV cure for 24 hours before you put any oil in the motor very important. Don't get in a hurry. I used studs with nylon lockers that I bought from Hughes engine. If you use bolts put a little bit of blue stick loctite on the threads ends. Just a little. After you install your oil and run the engine, get it hot. Be sure to leave the engine on the jacks. crawl back under and re-tighten the bolts because they will loosen due to expansion of the block. Your oil pan will leak if you don't. How do I know ? I didn't do it and I lost one qt. of oil. So, warm it up then check your bolts. So far I have zero leaks with 2 tanks of gas run through the motor.

Manici racing or Hughes has billet retainers and a seal kit, I bought the 35 dollar seal and did not use the one that came in the billet box.

 

[GetX'd]

Forget what I pontificated on - uwss obviously knows what he's doing. I'd like that kind of expertise if it were my car. It may be when I have to replace what my guy did.

 

[dvw]

I use the original seal bridge. Many of the new billet parts are machined poorly. There are a few tips to insure success. Make sure the two bosses for the pan bolts are not broken through do to using pan bolts that are to long. Temporarily hold the bridge in place with the seal installed, no side seals. Does it sit in the center of the block register? If not you may have to over size the holes slightly in the bridge. It is imperative that the seal bridge not be pushed or pulled to one side because the bolts bind in the hold down bolt holes. I also do not use the side seals for the same reason. Just make sure everything is clean and dry. Fill the side grooves with RTV. I also had a SLIGHT amount of aerobic sealer between the bridge and block to seal the metal to metal surface. Use the Viton rubber style seals. None of my rear mains have ever leaked a drop over 25 years of motor building.
Doug

 

[lewtot184]

i just use all the stock stuff, including side seals; if you can find any. i put some rtv on the outer edges of the seal retainer and use shorter screws or studs at the retainer for pan fasteners. i think a lot of times what people think is the rear main seal leaking is actually something else.

 

[68charger4me]

Also make sure the lip of the upper half of the seal that lays in the block contacts the crank on both sides. My 400 was 1/16 off on one side, had to shim it so it would contact the crank.

 

[uwss]

What most guys don't get is that RTV and oil do not mix. The surfaces must be free of oil residue. Clean it, clean it again. Your parts will not leak, if you do this. Wait 24 hours before adding oil, recheck your bolts after engine gets hot, the bolts will loosen from expansion and contraction, I use a torque wrench. anti seize lube is your friend. use it. Remember dissimilar metals will and do corrode. Anti seize lube will make it easier to remove your bolts later. A little dab will do ya. I use the loctite stick brand. Makes it easy to roll the threads into the lube.

 

[reeltime]

Indy Head has billet ones with "0" rings that seal very well. Around $ 100.00 Don't buy from them. Get it from Hughes or Mancini.

 

[benno440]

this instruction link is the only one you need to know IMO, i tried every way with no luck until i tried this way and does not leak now for over a year.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/Rear_Main_Seal_Installation_InstructionsJune2006.pdf