re: Yukon Yokes

[uwss]

Is it necessary to upgrade the Yokes, U joints, straps and bolts when the horsepower is over 700 hp ?

 

[Hemi 354]

I would think that anyone that purports to have over 700HP, would know this answer.

 

[440ronnie67]

yes sir.

 

[uwss]

Well Hemi I have done research and there are many different views; some say no some say yes; I was requesting information from the vast experience of people on this website. I would rather ask from people who have had failures or success than to spend money needlessly. But I didn't ask for a smart *** BS answer.

- - - Updated - - -

440 have you done this before and if so what do you use ?

 

[aldal]

Is it necessary to upgrade the Yokes, U joints, straps and bolts when the horsepower is over 700 hp ?

I plan on upgrading mine to be on the safe side....good luck. :headbang:

 

[Cranky]

When a buddy and I were running a 4 speed car in Super Street (10.90 index), we upgraded to a Dana 60 after shaving the teeth on an 8 3/4 a few times and went to the Lakewood u-joints along with the 1350 yoke, slip yoke and beefier drive shaft. The car ran a best of 10.65.....

 

[snakeoil24]

If you loose a drive shaft and it happens to poll vault the car for ever and ever you will wish you had done it. I would go with the Dana Spicer parts. Since they are still made here. my lastest ride is not done but previously I have avoided problems by just changing out to balanced US made parts and use Ujoints without zerk fittings as well. It is a big expense but brakes, steering, tires and drive line are not worth the compromise.

 

[uwss]

I went to dennys driveshaft and they have the 1350 driveshaft setup with front and rear yokes for less than $800.00. I think I will go with this unless anyone here has a better suggestion. They use the dana spicer U joints greasable.

Anyone use the Jegs U joint girdles to replace the straps ?

 

[Mike Gaines]

I went to dennys driveshaft and they have the 1350 driveshaft setup with front and rear yokes for less than $800.00. I think I will go with this unless anyone here has a better suggestion. They use the dana spicer U joints greasable.

Anyone use the Jegs U joint girdles to replace the straps ?

If you have 700HP (and I presume you still have an 8 3/4 rear end, since you didnt state that you already had a DANA 60) then you should not spend one cent on anything to do with the 8 3/4 because whatever you do it...it will probably blow, sooner or later. Spend the money for a DANA 60. The entire cost (turn key operation) will cost you somewhere around $2900.

1) About $200 for a DANA housing from the boneyard.
2) About $1500 in parts: Moser Axles, Mopar Axle Tips, Ring Gear & Pinion, Spool, Install Kit, Forged Pinion, Aluminum Rear cover
3) About $1200 in Labor: Narrow Housing, Build the differential, Weld on Chrysler Axle Tips, Weld on Spring Pads, Shorten Driveshaft, Remove your brakes from your 8 3/4 and install your brakes on the DANA Housing, Install new Brake Lines, etc.
Like I said, in many opinions, including mine, money spent on your 8 3/4 is wasted. Don't punish your 8 3/4 until you get money for the DANA and do it right. Your car should be worth $2500 more with the DANA when you go to sell it, or keep your 8 3/4 and put it back in your car when you sell it , then you can sell the DANA for probably $2200 to $2500 dollars pretty easily.

 

[aldal]

uwss, I apologize when I posted my intentions to upgrade I neglected to mention I am going with a Dana 60 rearend which I am installing this winter. Good luck, Al

 

[uwss]

Mike I have Dana 60 rear end, 4:10 gears.

 

[uwss]

I bought a new rear yoke ( their best chrome moly) from Dennys driveshaft; I bought a new pinion seal also. The hardest part was getting the pinion nut off. I soaked it in Pb blaster for 30 minutes, spraying it every 10 minutes. I waited 1 hour. I then used my impact driver to get it off. HINT: loosen, tighten 2 or 3 times with the impact and that will be enough to break 45 years of crud loose. Off it came. The pinion seal came right out and it was very rotten. Had the old spring type around the rubber for pressure. The new seal was pre greased. I cleaned the inside with carb cleaner and wiped clean. I applied a light coat of gray gear RTV sealant to the outside edge and installed it. Tapped lightly with a hammer and a small piece of wood and it went right in.
I cleaned the housing with carb cleaner so I can see if there is a leak after sitting overnight. I use Royal Purple 90 wt. gear oil.

It took longer to get the pinion nut off then doing the entire job, start to finish. I plan on replacing the driveshaft and slip yoke with later as money is available. Still fighting cancer but I am still alive. Go get yourself checked out; get an MRI and get that *** scoped.

FYI: I used the same in the manual steering box. What a difference, the car turns like I had power steering. Huge difference.

 

[mmissile]

Is it necessary to upgrade the Yokes, U joints, straps and bolts when the horsepower is over 700 hp ?

Manual trans? Slicks?..............

 

[uwss]

4 speed and slicks; A833 tranny.