Shackle kit that can low rear end

Kenneth

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Hi Mopars !
Anyone having knowledge of a shackle kit there can low rear end of 72 Charger ?
 

TheSwede

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Hi, try to drill new holes in the front hanger, I have done that on mine but I am not sure it will be enough material on stock hangers.
It is a set of superstock hangers that I drilled two more holes in.
This will probably lower the car 30-35 mm.
You can shorten the rear ones to but I would not do that you will loose a lot of "travel", when the suspension travels up and down the rear schackle goes back and forward and if it is to short it will "lock" the suspension.
I have a drill for those holes if you are interested, bring me some Danish beer and we can trade... I live 25 min from Copenhagen.
 

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Dako

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You are the 1st person that I know of asking this question...most cars tend to have a little rear sag in stock trim. Have you verified all is stock out back?...no air shocks, helper springs, coil-overs on stock shocks, lift shackles, or tow package type springs already in place?

With the axle housing mounted on top of the leaf springs as yours is, the easiest way to lower the rear end is to add lowering blocks between the rear axle housing and leaf springs. This is done by supporting the car by the frame and letting the suspension go to full droop. Undo the 'U' bolts on each side, jack the rear end up off the springs a bit, slide in some blocks, install slightly longer 'U' bolts to accomadate the blocks, and you are done. The same blocks that are used to lower pickups would work on your car. I believe they can be found in varying thicknesses, you just have to search. Summit, 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers, etc. Good luck.
 

rgp266

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Beware of lowering blocks. They can, and will, block the access to the brake adjustors making adjusting the rear brakes ......ummmmm....interesting. While you can remove the front hangers, flip them over and swap them side to side after elongating a few holes, you may find that lowers the car far too much at the rear bumper and raises hell with pinion angle. Solution? You can use the front hangers that Swede suggested and drill your own hanger holes if you are using stock front segment springs or get some correctly sized "C" channel steel material and build your own. You need material that is 4 1/4" long by 3 1/2" by 3 1/2" by 3/16" (adjust for metric if needed), knock the studs out of a set of stockers for a pattern and drill stud holes in your hanger material. Drill the hole for the spring eye slightly higher than the stock hole would be. Caution is advised here. Raising the hole an inch will result in over 2" at the rear bumper. You might make a couple of sets to get it right. Good luck!
Bob
 

blackblazer717

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You hit the nail on the head. Messing with the front hanges reaks havok on the pinion angle. You may end up putting spring pertch shims in to correct that. Another option would be to call pst and get a set of there performance drop springs. Once youve done all this. Youll probably want to invest in a ser of good sway bars. Just my 2cents i wouldnt skimp on this. i would prefer drop springs over butchering the front spring hangers.

Furthermore drop blocks are going to end up counter acting your work, creating another problem, spring windup. Which is never fun, with lots of negative affects
 

Kenneth

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You are the 1st person that I know of asking this question...most cars tend to have a little rear sag in stock trim. Have you verified all is stock out back?...no air shocks, helper springs, coil-overs on stock shocks, lift shackles, or tow package type springs already in place?

With the axle housing mounted on top of the leaf springs as yours is, the easiest way to lower the rear end is to add lowering blocks between the rear axle housing and leaf springs. This is done by supporting the car by the frame and letting the suspension go to full droop. Undo the 'U' bolts on each side, jack the rear end up off the springs a bit, slide in some blocks, install slightly longer 'U' bolts to accomadate the blocks, and you are done. The same blocks that are used to lower pickups would work on your car. I believe they can be found in varying thicknesses, you just have to search. Summit, 4Wheel Parts Wholesalers, etc. Good luck.

reasons for lowering is related to larger wheels on the back, there to much sag in the old leafsprings, I bought new springs, these are fine but just a bit too high - that's why :)
 

Dako

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Others on here will tell you to expect some settling in those new springs. If your car photo is current, I think it has a great stance.
 

Kenneth

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Others on here will tell you to expect some settling in those new springs. If your car photo is current, I think it has a great stance.

Here is updated photo
 

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tpodwdog

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nice car,,,,id leave it just like that....looks good ! if you're trying to level it out,,,,,crank up the torsion bars a bit.....thats a hell of alot easier than going thru all that mess with the springs!
 

Altered64

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That is indeed pretty high out back!
A drop block would be the cheapest answer here.
Also any spring shop should be able to take out a bit of the arch in ur springs if you are willing to take them out.
 

wannadrag

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nice car,,,,id leave it just like that....looks good ! if you're trying to level it out,,,,,crank up the torsion bars a bit.....thats a hell of alot easier than going thru all that mess with the springs!

X2 leave it alone and drive it.
 

gliderider-06

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I had the same problem. I bought new 6 leaf springs cause the old ones had a nice reverse arch. They raised the car up so high that I had an 8" gap between the tire and fender. I removed 2 leaves from each side and had to also use the new front spring hangers from Mancini. I now have about < 3" gap. Almost didn't pass inspection because of bumper height. Rides smooth as silk now!
 
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