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Steering wheel 180 degrees off

moparedtn

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Real quick question, guys...
When my wheels are straight ahead, my steering wheel (manual steering) is 180 degrees off ("upside down").

Can I simply pull the column off the worm gear input shaft of the steering box, turn the wheel 180 degrees, then put it back on and install the roll pin?
Does the coupling only go on the worm gear one way - is it "keyed"?

Thanks in advance!
 
Your issue is in steering coupler , steering shaft interface. Separate steering shaft from coupling and rotate steering shaft 180 degree and re-install. Coupler has master spline to index it to steering box. These instructions may help you. Coupler clamp in instructions is available on eBay and may make re-installation easier for you if you findd it difficult to re-attach seal and cover to coupler.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ple-issue-Need-help&p=910242718#post910242718
 
You can take the coupling apart and turn the steering shaft 180. The coupling on my 66 is index to go only one way iirc.
 
What he said. The part that mounts to the box only go on one way. The idiots who worked on my car gave it back with the steering wheel just like yours - upside down. Loosed the steering column bolts, take the cap off that the steering shaft goes through into the female part of the coupler, slide the column back until the spring loaded metal pucks on the end clear, pick them up off the floor and clean them up (I always drop them!), rotate the steering wheel 180 degrees until it is right, re-install the spring and pucks (regrease them first), put the cover back on, done.
 
You did not index the gear box with steering column!
I didn't do squat.
Bought the car this way and if you look back over previous posts, I've been re-doing everything on it one at a time. Quite happy I'm down to fooling with the little things like this now.
Between all that was wrong on the car (I've about replaced everything on it, seems like) and a few delays from battling cancer, I'm just glad to be here TO fool with it. :)

- - - Updated - - -

Your issue is in steering coupler , steering shaft interface. Separate steering shaft from coupling and rotate steering shaft 180 degree and re-install. Coupler has master spline to index it to steering box. These instructions may help you. Coupler clamp in instructions is available on eBay and may make re-installation easier for you if you findd it difficult to re-attach seal and cover to coupler.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...ple-issue-Need-help&p=910242718#post910242718
Oh I LOVE that. Thanks much! I did all sorts of searching on here and didn't come up with that awesome diagram.

Now that I understand, one last question:
Does the steering shaft "periscope"? In other words, do I have to totally take the steering column loose inside the vehicle (at firewall and under dash) to get the shaft to pull back enough to do this, or will it pull back enough if I just undo the nuts under the dash?

Thanks guys, really helping me here.
 
Now that I understand, one last question:
Does the steering shaft "periscope"? In other words, do I have to totally take the steering column loose inside the vehicle (at firewall and under dash) to get the shaft to pull back enough to do this, or will it pull back enough if I just undo the nuts under the dash?

Thanks guys, really helping me here.

Well, the shaft, if pushed hard, will telescope into the column, but that is for safety in the case of an accident. There are some injection molded plastic pieces that will break if you do that.

I would strongly suggest you loosen the column and fix it that way. The reason I say this is that if the PO made the mistake to have it 180 degrees off, then he probably did not set the distance properly either. At least on a 1970, the distance between the top of the coupling and the gauge hole should be 13/16". (The gauge hole is a small hole in the steering shaft near the coupling.) This will set the distance properly and allow the shoes in the coupling to move like they need to. This distance is set by moving the column forward or backward to set it.

Good Luck!

Hawk
 
Why wouldn't you just undo the steering wheel, tun it 180 re install? As long as the housing has the blinker etc the right way around, I can't see why you'd bother pulling that fn coupler apart?
 
Why wouldn't you just undo the steering wheel, tun it 180 re install? As long as the housing has the blinker etc the right way around, I can't see why you'd bother pulling that fn coupler apart?
The steering wheel also fits on splines on the steering column shaft and only goes on one way. Only way to do it your way would be to grind down the index spline area.
 
Why wouldn't you just undo the steering wheel, tun it 180 re install? As long as the housing has the blinker etc the right way around, I can't see why you'd bother pulling that fn coupler apart?

Depending on the year, many are splined so the steering wheel only fits one way...
 
Well, the shaft, if pushed hard, will telescope into the column, but that is for safety in the case of an accident. There are some injection molded plastic pieces that will break if you do that.

I would strongly suggest you loosen the column and fix it that way. The reason I say this is that if the PO made the mistake to have it 180 degrees off, then he probably did not set the distance properly either. At least on a 1970, the distance between the top of the coupling and the gauge hole should be 13/16". (The gauge hole is a small hole in the steering shaft near the coupling.) This will set the distance properly and allow the shoes in the coupling to move like they need to. This distance is set by moving the column forward or backward to set it.

Good Luck!

Hawk

More very helpful information. I'd guarantee he didn't even know this. I sure didn't.
Thanks much!

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, at least on mine, the steering wheel only goes on one way. I can attest to that.
 
Success!
It went exactly as you gentlemen instructed. In fact, I figured out later that I didn't need to drop
the column inside all the way, since it will slide in and out inside the hanger bracket under the dash once
you remove the 4 bolts that attach tube to bracket.

I'd feel better with one of those coupling clamps, though, didn't really get that part as snug as I'd like
(backing plate).

I got so pumped after finishing this job that I went after the map/courtesy lamp and fixed that while
I was at it.

You guys ROCK. Thanks again!
 
Thanks for letting us know how it went - glad you had success!

Now go lay some serious stripes in the road to celebrate! :grin:
 
Thanks for letting us know how it went - glad you had success!

Now go lay some serious stripes in the road to celebrate! :grin:
You know, I haven't done that yet with the car, since the whole drivetrain is basically fresh and it has
very little time on it so far.
I'm taking it in for ball joints tomorrow, though. Might have to do a little victory clutch dump once I'm
sure the thing will go where I point it. :icon_winkle:
 
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