Steering wheel replacement 68 Roadrunner

[Ed Martin]

When trying to install a new steering wheel (similar to the original), I cannot get it to go onto the splined shaft. I'm trying to line up the wheel at the same circumferential position with the one odd shaft spline. It just doesn't go and I've stripped the nut with too much force (greater than the 24 ft-lb spec) and the nut only would only engage a couple of threads on the shaft. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[mopar 3 B]

If the new wheel is going to fit you should be able to push it over the shaft splines. It will only fit in one position and will fall in place when aligned correctly. The nut is there to keep the wheel tight and from falling off, not for pressing in place. Find the correct die and clean the messed up threads there should be plenty left to hold the wheel in place when installed correctly.

 

[Propwash]

The nut needs to be used to seat/press the steering wheel (that's why a puller is needed for removal), and it is easy to align on the wrong tooth and peel back/destroy the small splines in the process. At least on every Mopar steering wheel I've removed/installed. Hopefully your threads are ok on the column shaft! Nut's are easy to replace, but that shaft isn't. I would make sure you're real, real certain you are at the right alignment key. Mangled splines from poor install jobs in the past can really through you for a loop. Using a little grease when going to align/install wouldn't hurt either. Also, when you're saying "similar to original", does that mean aftermarket or another Mopar wheel? I would verify the correct number of splines on the wheel vs. shaft. Also, when you do get it to line up & install, use a fine punch and mark a spot on the wheel and on the shaft, so next time it's much more easy/visible to align. If your column shaft threads are messed up, I would try a rethreading die, before resorting to the worst case scenario..

 

[Ed Martin]

If the new wheel is going to fit you should be able to push it over the shaft splines. It will only fit in one position and will fall in place when aligned correctly. The nut is there to keep the wheel tight and from falling off, not for pressing in place. Find the correct die and clean the messed up threads there should be plenty left to hold the wheel in place when installed correctly.

Thanks very much. That makes sense, but the steering wheel did not slip over the splines even with force. I got the replacement from B/E&A - (see picture attached). Seems like it would fit ok. Unless maybe I have messed up the ends of the splines that the wheel slips over. I will try some more...

 

[mopar 3 B]

A fine tooth rectangular file will clean the damaged spline ends. Would not suggest cleaning splines just ends.

 

[mmissile]

If the wheels just popped on and off, there wouldn't be steering wheel pullers.

 

[Ed Martin]

The nut needs to be used to seat/press the steering wheel (that's why a puller is needed for removal), and it is easy to align on the wrong tooth and peel back/destroy the small splines in the process. At least on every Mopar steering wheel I've removed/installed. Hopefully your threads are ok on the column shaft! Nut's are easy to replace, but that shaft isn't. I would make sure you're real, real certain you are at the right alignment key. Mangled splines from poor install jobs in the past can really through you for a loop. Using a little grease when going to align/install wouldn't hurt either. Also, when you're saying "similar to original", does that mean aftermarket or another Mopar wheel? I would verify the correct number of splines on the wheel vs. shaft. Also, when you do get it to line up & install, use a fine punch and mark a spot on the wheel and on the shaft, so next time it's much more easy/visible to align. If your column shaft threads are messed up, I would try a rethreading die, before resorting to the worst case scenario..

Thanks Propwash. I found upon close inspection that I had damaged the ends of the splines when I did not have it aligned and tried to tighten the wheel nut. So I'm trying to clean up the splines, but need to get a better file (than the fingernail file I had!). See picture of new aftermarket steering wheel sent previously. It seems identical (number of splines and diameter) to the original. After cleaning up the splines, to avoid repeating my mistake, is there some trick to making sure it's aligned right since you can't see exactly where the alignment key is with respect to the wheel since it's hidden from view? The threads on the shaft seem ok and I got a new nut to fit.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Possibly a dot of liquid white out on the shft above the key.

 

[Ed Martin]

That's a good idea ... I marked a scribe line on the end of the shaft before I took off the old steering wheel so that I would know its position (as my factory manual explains). But that was before I found there was only one way to align it on the splines (which my manual does not explain). So if it is not going to easily slip into place (after I clean up the ends of the splines), I want to make sure it is EXACTLY lined up with the key before tightening the nut. I'd hate to have to replace the shaft!