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Technique for starting Max Wedge

skyman51

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I have gotten all kinds of advice as to how to start my max wedge. I know it is tough to start and keep running until there is some heat in the cylinders. Yesterday I had a tougher time than usual getting it started and after getting it running and dying on the fifth try, the next try sound like a 44 magnum going off when the exhaust backfired. At least it didn't blow the muffler off. I know it is a race motor and will never be an easy job getting it running, but does anyone have any suggestions. I may come across one I haven't heard or tried yet. Thanks in advance.
 
I also have a race motor which is a 440 with the 305H Comp cam with .525 intake and exhaust. I just hold the rpms up around 3000 rpm or so for about a minute and then pedal the throttle a little as I let the rpms come back down to idle. Also, no need for a choke. To get it started I give it a couple pumps on the pedal and then crank and maybe give it a couple more little pumps of the pedal. You will get the hang of it. Once it is running just keep the rpms up there for a minute and it will warm up enough to idle. Of course you may have some other issue like timing.
 
I used to have a hell of a time starting my high strung 440 (no choke). It would backfire something bad through the carb. Found out I was being too timid on the throttle. From a cold start it needs three pumps to the floor before hitting the key, and then she'll fire right off. I need to feather the throttle for awhile to keep it going and try to hold it around 2000 rpm til it gets warmed up. If it's run awhile and I shut it off for even a few minutes and go to restart it needs a good peddle pump before hitting the key. If I don't give it enough fuel to start and begin turning it over and then pumping the throttle it will usually blow back.
 
I always like one hit of the pedal and crank it over.... So far, all of my builds have used this technique with success. Like john said, you'll probably have to fuss with it for a minute or two untill it gets warmed up a bit.
I have had multi carb tunnel rams and single carb with dual and single plane intakes work well this way. My 440 with a VICTOR single plane works this way too!
Does it start then stall, or just crank? Are you pumping it several times before cranking?
You shouldn't have to hit the pedal any more than once before hitting the key... When it begins to run, you might have to feather the throttle a bit to bring it up to a higher RPM for warm up.
BTW, we should always bring our engines up to a higher RPM just after start up to help lube the system.
Do your carbs have a high idle control, like fast idle cams and adj screws? Is everything hooked up correctly?
If you use the high idle cams and dash pots, you'll need to hit the pedal in order to set it on high idle and this gives yo the shot of gas needed on cold starts
 
I think someone may have come up with something. I shouldn't be pumping and cranking at the same time. I will get it started and probably not feathering the pedal very good and it dies. It has a manual choke but I have been told by most max wedge onwners not to even bother with it.
 
Sounds funny, I have my 493 hard to start and there is always a little trick on every motor, mine is pumping once then hold to the floor release just as she catches then the choke kicks in and holds it at 900 I usually keep it up to 1200 just to until it gets to around 100 degrees then let her go from there. Mine dies at idle cuz of the stall converter and is hard to restart after she is really hot, I put it to the floor the other day getting in to the garage and it back fired like a 44 mag lol too but started right after. I think it is some timing issue whole other story...
 
Bigman, check my other thread just posted about the hard hot crank problem I just got to the bottom of.
 
Are you running race cas or pump gas ? Pump gas is easier to start your car with in cold weather. I use an 850 DP and all I do in colder air is pump it 3 times and hit the key. It fires right off and then I keep it running for a few minutes until it idles on its own. Ron
 
I usually have at least 4 or 5 gallons of race gas in the tank along with pump gas. On another note, since I don;t see so well, and Holley's are more familiar, do Carter AFB's have drain plugs for the fuel bowl? I thought it might be a good idea to fill the tank and add Stabil. than drain the carbs and let them air dry to get out all the gas for the winter.
 
I used to drive one regularly and never had a problem starting it. Are your accelerator pumps delivering a good strong shot? Pump the pedal a couple of times and crank it over with the throttle lightly open. A choke may help too.
 
I usually have at least 4 or 5 gallons of race gas in the tank along with pump gas. On another note, since I don;t see so well, and Holley's are more familiar, do Carter AFB's have drain plugs for the fuel bowl? I thought it might be a good idea to fill the tank and add Stabil. than drain the carbs and let them air dry to get out all the gas for the winter.

Just so you know I have let my carburetor dry out dozens of times while out to sea, deployed, and in college and never had a problem so far. I would just put Stabil in the tank and forget about it until the snow melts and the salt has been washed away. I even let my motor sit with a .525 lift cam pushing on the valve springs for over two years and no problems there either. Plus just cranked up after two years without priming the oil pump. Everything should be coated in oil from before and I don't worry about doing anything special after a long time sitting except change the oil.
 
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