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Time to kick it up a notch and looking for direction 65 bbody - stiffening & tires

use2teech

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Hey All ! got my 65 Coronet 500 on the road last summer and had a great time driving it. Started as a low buck project....then found out the first motor from CL was junk, not so low buck anymore! Original big block car, now sports a stroked 440, Eddie heads, 540 HP and 575 FT LBS. Looking for some guidance, hopefully from someone who has done similar to a 65. I am trying to build her up a little each year, still running a street built original 65 727 and 8 3/4 posi. I want to move to a bigger tire, tie the frame together and am building a DANA 60 right now. My goal is to have something reliable enough to occasionally take to the track in a couple years. I am thinking of the US CAR frame ties that run along the floor, move the springs inward and narrowing the DANA. Wondered if someone has already done this and has a suggested rear end width, what size tire/offset can I use to maybe move up to a 12 inch tire ? All I have so far is the DANA housing and am just getting started, need to make some plans on what to buy and hoping someone has suggestions. I don't want to tub the car and I have a clear understanding that I can't plan on much abuse until the trans is redone/replaced, maybe next years project. Thanks as always,
 
10 inch wheel with 5 inch set back, 12 inch thread 13 1/2 inch from bubble to bubble, mini tubed shortened axle to 49 1/2 from flange to flange

I'll get more pics for ya !!
 

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My 1st drag car was a '65 Coronet sedan. After couple of years, in 1975, we added the subframe ties, springs into the frame rails, inside 1/2 tubs, narrowed Dana 52" drum to drum as I recall, 5.13 gear (later 4.88), 3 1/4" DC driveshaft, eventual wheel/tire was 10" - 4.5" backspace, Firestone 11.5W x 29.5. The tire was 13.5" face, 15" section width, 30.4 actual diameter. I ordered the same tire for my '66 Satellite forgetting that I had "adjusted" the bottom front of the wheel well opening with a 3# hammer on the '65 car for clearance. The 11.5W is too tall for my Satellite. I will use 11.5 x 28.5 on the Satellite. If you're going to move the springs into the frame rails do the tubs too. Either straight 1/2 tub or split the tub in the middle & add the 2" in the middle, you'll really want that some day. On the frame ties we used 2x3 & cut the slots in the floor & welded the floor to the 2x3, my Satellite was done the same way. If I was doing it now I'd run the 2x2 or 2 x 1 1/2 under the floor pan contours welding where contacts & with some gussets, avoid the complexity of making the floor pan cuts. Good luck. I'm pulling the axles in my Satellite, I'll measure the Dana, it should be about 48.75" housing flange to housing flange. I'll let you know & post pics.
 
I have a 15x8 with 4.5 bs on a stock 8-3/4. 275 tire. Factory spring location etc. it could stand say 4-3/4-5" bs though as the cars sits low cuz the old springs are wore out and will hit the outer wheelhouse on hard bumps.

If your not going to put a mini tub in it, I would just put an offset shackle/hanger kit as it'll move the spring enough that the tub will then become the clearance issue. Or just do the whole relocate kit if you think you'll update more in the future.

The car tools are nice but I still typically make mine, out of either 2x3 or round tube if part of the chassis.

When it comes time, if you need the rear narrowed let me know. I'm in Kalamazoo, I'll do it for free just buy the parts. Good luck.
 
2x2 steel tubing slipped into the front of the rear subframes and butt welded to a plate on the torsion bar crossmember work perfectly and you don't have to cut the floor.

Measure your wheel openings carefully and then buy wheel and tire combo to fit. You can then spec a Dana 60 to fit within those confines. Personally, I would move the rear springs into the framerails.

You car sounds alot like mine. Started as a mild 440 street/strip build and now getting carried away with heads and a stroker kit...
 
10 inch wheel with 5 inch set back, 12 inch thread 13 1/2 inch from bubble to bubble, mini tubed shortened axle to 49 1/2 from flange to flange

I'll get more pics for ya !!

Thanks for response. Looks great. What type of leaf spring is that ? Any chance you have pics of mini tub or advice on how hard it is to do ? I think I can handle the dana, the frame ties and the spring relocate but really afraid of the tubs. Also, with the current 8 3/4, any idea if I have to replace my driveshaft ? I am running an original 65 727 and shaft now. Thanks again !

- - - Updated - - -

I have a 15x8 with 4.5 bs on a stock 8-3/4. 275 tire. Factory spring location etc. it could stand say 4-3/4-5" bs though as the cars sits low cuz the old springs are wore out and will hit the outer wheelhouse on hard bumps.

If your not going to put a mini tub in it, I would just put an offset shackle/hanger kit as it'll move the spring enough that the tub will then become the clearance issue. Or just do the whole relocate kit if you think you'll update more in the future.

The car tools are nice but I still typically make mine, out of either 2x3 or round tube if part of the chassis.

When it comes time, if you need the rear narrowed let me know. I'm in Kalamazoo, I'll do it for free just buy the parts. Good luck.

Wow...thanks. I appreciate the offer. My son is at Western Mich so that may actually be an option. You mention maybe just moving the springs and then be limited by the tub width. Any clue how wide of a tire it will handle that way ? Thanks again
 
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