Torque crank pulley bolt?

[Charger21]

I have pressed on the harmonic balancer on my 400 after replacing the timing chain and gears. I have a deep pulley. Any suggestions on the easiest way to keep engine from turning over while trying to torque it down to 135 ft lbs?

 

[1967coronet440]

Looks like its in the car? Maybe wedge something against the flex plate, screwdriver?

 

[wyrmrider]

The old screwdriver/ tire iron in the starter ring gear trick
they do make a little bolt on thingie that does the same thing if you are by yourself
do not recommend the screwdriver in the spark plug hole trick- does not even begin to work with flat top pistons
some put two bolts in the dampner and put a pry bar between the bolts resting on something like the ground
about the only way if you are alone
now stick shift- put it in high and put the brakes on hard
now the use locktite or not question

 

[Charger21]

So disregard my comments about the pulley. After checking, the center bolt and washer are smaller than the center hole on the pulley. Can you tell it has been a while since I took it apart? Still trying to find a way to keep engine from turning over.

Maybe flex plate as suggested?

 

[wyrmrider]

the washer should be about a quarter inch thick and about a 3/4 fine thread bolt
there are several length bolts that will thread in
use the correct one for the crank
or use the longest that will thread the crank without bottoming out
in other-words not too short- not too long do not try and pull on the pulley with a too short bolt- you can strip your crank threads- the crank is softer than the bole
do not try the "put on the long breaker bar and hit the starter" trick

 

[wyrmrider]

LET'S GET SERIOUS FOR A SECOND
best to take that deep pulley off when torqueing your crank bolt as it gives a lot of potential side leverage
if you do torque with it on keep your extension absolutely straight
easy way to round off the hex on your crank bolt
btw a too long bolt-- bottom tap the crank and hand thread and check
too long a bolt can crack a crank nose especially a cast crank
too short a bolt and a cast crank can break
what I'm trying to say is that this is not a place just to go to the handy coffee can of crank bolts and use the first one you grab

 

[747mopar]

Since you said flexplate I'm assuming it's an auto so that ones out. The pry bar in the starter gear works fine but requires an extra set of hands.

 

[Don Frelier]

You can fill a cylinder with 1/4" rope (when the piston is down) then it will act as a dead stop on the way up.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Don's rope trick sounds interesting. I've jammed the flywheel/torque converter before. However, my first choice based on what's been posted is the idea of using two longer bolts in the crank pulley holes, jamming a crowbar or something between the bolts and onto the ground to hold the motor & tighten the center bolt.

On a related note, what do all of you think about using an impact wrench of that center bolt? I've done it, but would like some opinions if it's a good idea or not.

 

[eldubb440]

just blast it on with an impact gun when no one is looking

 

[wyrmrider]

dam- forgot about the magic rope trick actually works good
impact wrench - how accurate is the torque setting?
some downsides- if not started correctly will cross thread or strip
or slip and round off the corners- these are not grade 8 bolts usually- they are big instead
problem with a torque wrench is do you have one with the correct capacity ( and enough room to get a good pull)
you can make an extension with a double ended box wrench- twice as long from the pivot point on the hand grip to the center of the drive and cut the torque reading in half
other scales from other extension ratios
course the double ended box wrench trick will not work with the pulley on