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torsion bar adjust

lorny

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to level my 66 cornet left driver torsion bar (777) screw is almost all the way in
passenger side (776) maybe half way ( both 7/8" bars)
can i reclock driver side
 
Take a good look at your lower control arm pivot shaft bushing.. I suspect it's rotted and your pivot shaft is jammed off center.
 
... and another thought, is your torsion bar socket solid in it's crossmember? Known to rust out and start turning...
 
Take a good look at your lower control arm pivot shaft bushing.. I suspect it's rotted and your pivot shaft is jammed off center.
the under side is pretty solid
i'll double check but i'm sure bar is either week or clocked wrong
 
The rubber LCA bushings rot with age. If yours are 55 years old I suspect they're done. As for clocking, if the bars are on the correct sides you cannot clock them wrong. No way you can be 60 degrees out..
 
I doubt it’s mis-clocked. Haven’t tried it but I’m not sure you could even get it off the bump stop if a whole flat off. I had a similar issue on my 66 and found the bars had been installed on the wrong sides and on the low side the screw head wasn’t in the socket of the LCA arm. Even after repositioning the screw it still sat low on that side and I had to install new bars.
 
ok thx i'll double check tomorrow
what difference would it make if the boots are rotten
 
all above is true. in addition, the driver side will always require further adjustment, as due to the fact the the weight of the driver is another factor. when chrysler aligns the front end, the driver side is always adjusted an 1/8 or so higher then the passenger side.

and bushings definitely go bad, after 53 years or so. I can say so as I have one.

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I forgot to mention if my Brother was the driver, the car should be raised 1/2 an Inch on the driver side to compensate!
 
to level my 66 cornet left driver torsion bar (777) screw is almost all the way in
passenger side (776) maybe half way ( both 7/8" bars)
can i reclock driver side
It’s time for a LCA refresh sir ….. might as well look at those uppers too
 
Forgot to add (as well as forgot to do myself) but it’s a good idea to loosen the lower control arm bushing before adjusting since raising that side will put it in a twist which will resist the front rising up.
 
The rubber LCA bushings rot with age. If yours are 55 years old I suspect they're done. As for clocking, if the bars are on the correct sides you cannot clock them wrong. No way you can be 60 degrees out..
Even if you have the bump stops in as someone said above?

I'm asking because my bars went in easily with just the grease and tensioners backed out all the way. What would be the difference if I removed the bars and bump stops then reinstall the bars?
 
Even if you have the bump stops in as someone said above?

I'm asking because my bars went in easily with just the grease and tensioners backed out all the way. What would be the difference if I removed the bars and bump stops then reinstall the bars?
As long as the adjuster lever was down about flush with the top of the LCA then you're in the correct place. You'd have to have the adjuster lever pointing up towards the top of the fender to be 60* out. Some cars you can get the bars in with the upper bump stop in place, especially if they are old tired ones. New stops you'd GENERALLY have to pull down pretty hard on the LCA to get the bar in.
 
As long as the adjuster lever was down about flush with the top of the LCA then you're in the correct place. You'd have to have the adjuster lever pointing up towards the top of the fender to be 60* out. Some cars you can get the bars in with the upper bump stop in place, especially if they are old tired ones. New stops you'd GENERALLY have to pull down pretty hard on the LCA to get the bar in.
I did notice one side was easier.

Thanks
 
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