trim, your gap is showing
- Thread starter black68
- Start date
Dako
Well-Known Member
Maybe it would help if you posted a photo of the area you have in question? That way you get a photo of what you are actually wanting to see.
Oldtimer
Well-Known Member
I was talked out of using the 'original' butyl rope sealant, when recently re-installing the rear window of my 68 GTX following paint. The story I got was... apparently some insurance companies don't like the butyl as it was never much good for keeping the rear window in and subsequently your passengers in, during potential roll overs and were reluctant to insure the vehicle or even refuse to insure the vehicle, if butyl was used as a replacement seal. I was told to go with the more modern urethane sealant, requiring that the installer, cut a deep triangular grove in the tip of sealant tube, and lay on a generous and continuous bead of urethane sealant upon the inner circumference of the rear window, before laying it into the hole, the surrounding edges of which should also have been pre-treated with a black thin sealant allowing it to dry to a tacky state, prior to laying in your urethane bead prep'd window. This job goes better with two people and the aid of suction cups. You will get one shot to get it right... so aligning the window over your opening (exactly) before lowering it into place is important. Once in, there is little you can do to adjust it up, down or sideways. Laying in a couple of temporary rubber alignment blocks in your bottom corners, also helps you to drop in the window squarely without any issues. If you chose to go with a urethane seal, beware, the weight of your window may cause it to compress the urethane and settle much deeper, overnight... than you originally were happy with, immediately following this type of installation. You do not have this problem using a replacement butyl seal! Also, because most modern vehicles now use a urethane seal, the windows are blacked out for a reason on the circumference, to conceal the mess generated below, by the compressing urethane. Your old mopar glass is not blacked out for this purpose, and any mess created by the compression of modern urethane methods, is more difficult to conceal, than is the cleaner line created using an original butyl seal. If you are still bent on using a urethane sealing method, it might be wise to also place (4) depth controlling blocks @ your corners, just outside of the bead zone beforehand, to ensure your window does not settle too deep within the urethane. Otherwise, you will have a 'nasty' gap between your outer window glass and your window trim moldings when done. My installer made light of these same concerns, I had pointed out during the install. The depth controlling blocks were not used and my window sank overnight to the depths I have described above. Beware, this happened to me. If I had to do it over again, I would go butyl tape, but get the correct depth tape for your job. Without a pic, I hope this is the area, you were asking about. Good Luck!
dave5237
Well-Known Member
Sorry black68. Did not see you had a charger till after posted. I have my trim all ready on but can still sen you a pic ( dont know if it will help since you cant see anything). I used the butyl tape that oldtimer was talking about and did the window with my Dad. Very easy to do. I recommend the blocks so the window does not sag down. I left them in. Just make sure they are not in the way of your trim clips. Just center the window side to side with dry runs. My window was in and out several times before the final set. Good luck!
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