• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Water Pump Pulley Center Broke Out SEE PICS

wantahemi

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:12 AM
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Messages
120
Reaction score
69
Location
Adirondacks, NY
So I took the 440 Six Barrel out for quick cruise since there was no snow on the ground or roads in Upstate NY in December. Anyway, was cruising and decided to open it up a little. Upon hitting the gas, I started to hear a nasty rubbing / clanging noise. Pulled over and water pump pulley was wedged / misaligned. After some roadside disassembly and a $135.00 flat bed ride home, I found what you see in the pics. The center of the water pump pulley just broke out.

I found a shim behind the pulley which appears to have caused the pulley to break out. ALSO, the water pump bolts were rubbing on the back of the pulley. Obviously clearance is an issue. So since I was lucky enough to not loose the fan, belt or experience any damage other than the pulley, its not going back together until I figure out how to make it PERFECT. So my questions are:

1) I have heard about a milled water pump or housing, does this work and where can I buy it.
2) The water pump was replaced about 2,000 miles ago by a local guy and I am assuming the shim was his clearance solution. Why would I need to shim anything? Seems like a problem
3) Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Prior to replacing water pump, never an issue!!!!

Thanks in advance AGAIN!!!!

Al IMG_0892.JPGIMG_0890.JPGIMG_0893.JPGIMG_0894.JPGIMG_0896.JPGIMG_0892.JPGIMG_0890.JPGIMG_0893.JPGIMG_0894.JPGIMG_0896.JPG
 
It looks like the water pump wasn't the only issue. Looks like the pulley should have been inspected before being replaced. The shims behind the pulley are not uncommon. I'd say put on the same style pump and shims and buy a new pulley. The shims are used to prevent the rubbing of the bolt heads and to line the water pump pulley up with those using the same belt.
 
Definitely a problem that doesn't happen often. This is a fatigue failure most likely caused by the shim not fully supporting the pulley. I'd try the new pulley without a shim and see how it fits. If you need a shim make sure it is the same diameter as the water pump flange and the bolts should go through it.
 
I'm a little confused.

Every water pump pulley I've ever seen has a small center hole that fits snugly over the pump shaft. There is a reason for that. It's engineered that way in order to 1) make sure the pulley is centered on the pump shaft/flange so it wont vibrate and 2) that feature controls and lateral slippage that may occur which in turn may allow bolt torque to be lost, resulting in loose fasteners. Which we all know what happens then.

Same type of problem was ultimately solved forever when Detroit figured out that Steel wheels need to fit snugly over the center of the brake hubs in order to control vibration/wear/wheel loss in the '50's and '60's. (In addition to multi stage lug nut torquing)..

Just my $.02
 
Ok; Sorry Didn't read the title correctly... never mind... also, what Meep said, make sure the shim is the diameter of the flange and you should be ok.
 
Never seen a failure like yours. What does the shim look like? Buy a new pulley install and check belt alignment and if it needs shimmed do like Meep says make sure the shim gives the pulley full support.
 
The shim appears to be a thick fender washer. I tend to agree that metal fatigue was probably a part of it. I am going to start cruising the internet and see what type of shims are out there. Any recommendations on where to buy a quality shim?
 
That hole was cut by the bolts on the water pump to housing. either some one has replaced the pump with an after market one which came with the wrong bolts or some one just used the wrong bolts and not enough shims. I almost had this problem with an aluminum pulley thankfully they supply the correct bolts and shims. You need round head bolts not square, and get shims that are full round not just areas around the bolt holes.

Summit sells the shims bolts you can get at a hardware store or pay more for oem ones at a supplier.
 
When I need to shim the wp pulley, I like to take an old pulley and cut out the center and use it as a spacer. It gives it way more support than just washers or what not
 
Personally, I would buy a new, quality, replacement water pump along with the new pulley. Something must be odd with the water pump if they had to add that makeshift spacer. (I would definitely not EVER use the same shop-was duct tape used to hold the spacer on?)
This is why I don't trust anyone to work on my stuff.
 
My plan at this point is to replace the water pump, pulley setup and find the correct bolts that don't rub on the pulley. Anyone out there recommend a supplier? Really dont want to use any shims, that seems to be a cob job, however, with all the posts that came up with a search for pulleys, its pretty common. My neighbor has CNC machines and I may just go that route, but really want to keep car as MOPAR as possible.

- - - Updated - - -

The space was a large diameter fender washer that fell out when I removed the pulley. My guess is that duct tape was out of stock at the repair shop......
 
Nothing the matter with shimming the pulley. Make sure it's supported correctly. Many set-ups are misaligned due took a stack-up of tolerances. Hold a straightedge on the crank and make it right.
Doug
 
Thanks for the pictures, always makes the discussion easier. After seeing your setup, I am just going to track down some stainless steel rounded hex head water pump to housing bolts that dont hit. If you know what brand your water pump to housing bolts are please pass that along. If not, like I said, off to the local Fastenal.

Al
 
If you use S/S bolts into an aluminum housing make sure and use anti-seize or you'll have a lot of fun trying to remove them down the road...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top