What spark plugs are you using in your 915 heads?

[71 Sebring +]

I have a 440 with 915 heads. 2.14" intakes and 1.81" exhausts. They have been ported with angle valve job. It has 9.7:1 compression. Right now it has NGK R, XR5 V-POWER plugs gapped at. 035". Using A MSD ready to run distributor and a Blaster 2 coil.

 

[WileE]

Champion J-11Y

 

[RemCharger]

I have a 440 with 915 heads. 2.14" intakes and 1.81" exhausts. They have been ported with angle valve job. It has 9.7:1 compression. Right now it has NGK R, XR5 V-POWER plugs gapped at. 035". Using A MSD ready to run distributor and a Blaster 2 coil.View attachment 1901414View attachment 1901416View attachment 1901417

Those are the correct plugs

 

[Jerry Hall]

I get best results from Autolite 85's. I can't get Champions to last long and have never tried NGK.

 

[Sinitro]

I run either Champion J-10Y or AutoLItes 85...

Just my $0.02...

 

[Pops1967GTX]

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Just cause Chrysler used Champion plugs back in the 60's & 70's doesn't mean it's the best option... They've always fouled easily & once fouled they virtually never clear up & fire clean again..

I've had decent results with Autolites but much better results with NGK's & ND's...

 

[71 Sebring +]

Thanks for all the replies. Have about 3200 miles on them. Still working on getting the carbs dialed in. They're alot better than when I started. Had bought the setup used. Thanks again I appreciate all the replies.

 

[RJRENTON]

I run either Champion J-10Y or AutoLItes 85...

Just my $0.02...

Try Champion UJ-11G or Champion HO-8A. The UJ-11G are booster gap style (internal series gap) plus gold palladium NON PROJECTED nose plug, medium heat range or as an alternate, Champion HO-8A which are platinum center NON PROJECED CENTER ELECTRODE. Both designs are 3/8" reach, NON RESISTOR PLUGS. The HO-8A was designed for Homelite 2 cycle racing go cart engines running alcohol-nitromethane fuel and lubed with castor oil. The plugs are available on line/ebay , likewise the UJ-11G plugs are also available on line. In my RS23V0A ****** 1970 GTX, a 6 barrel car, 4 speed with 4.10 Dana rearther plug work extremely well.....
There is nothing sacred about using non standard plugs, including NGK's. You DO NOT HAVE TO USE PROJECTED NOSE PLUGS. I've used these plugs for years with excellent results......
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

Try Champion UJ-11G or Champion HO-8A. The UJ-11G are booster gap style (internal series gap) plus gold palladium NON PROJECTED nose plug, medium heat range or as an alternate, Champion HO-8A which are platinum center NON PROJECED CENTER ELECTRODE. Both designs are 3/8" reach, NON RESISTOR PLUGS. The HO-8A was designed for Homelite 2 cycle racing go cart engines running alcohol-nitromethane fuel and lubed with castor oil. The plugs are available on line/ebay , likewise the UJ-11G plugs are also available on line. In my RS23V0A ****** 1970 GTX, a 6 barrel car, 4 speed with 4.10 Dana rearther plug work extremely well.....
There is nothing sacred about using non standard plugs, including NGK's. You DO NOT HAVE TO USE PROJECTED NOSE PLUGS. I've used these plugs for years with excellent results......
BOB RENTON

BOB:
Thanks for the info but..
The UJ-11G and HO-8A are made outside the USA, and I have some apprehension about their quality...
Note that they may just be fine...
But in today's global sourcing world outside the USA, I like to stick to good ole established/known USA made stuff when available.
I have a stash of J-10Ys and AutoLite 85s, that will last me a long time. Plus they run fine in my max wedge.
I bought some quantities back when they were made in the USA, and less expensive than today.

Just my $0.02..

 

[RJRENTON]

BOB:
Thanks for the info but..
The UJ-11G and HO-8A are made outside the USA, and I have some apprehension about their quality...
Note that they may just be fine...
But in today's global sourcing world outside the USA, I like to stick to good ole established/known USA made stuff when available.
I have a stash of J-10Ys and AutoLite 85s, that will last me a long time. Plus they run fine in my max wedge.
I bought some quantities back when they were made in the USA, and less expensive than today.

Just my $0.02..

The plugs i noted were made by Champion in Toledo Ohio. The HO-8A has been obsolete for several years and is available thru ebay or on line....the qualify is excellent. I do have a stash of Champion J-11Y, Mopar P34 as well as Autolite AP-85 and have good luck with AC R44S, AC 442. If you're concerned about off shore stuff...what about NGK's? ....to ach his own volition...
BOBRENTON..

 

[Sinitro]

The plugs i noted were made by Champion in Toledo Ohio. The HO-8A has been obsolete for several years and is available thru ebay or on line....the qualify is excellent. I do have a stash of Champion J-11Y, Mopar P34 as well as Autolite AP-85 and have good luck with AC R44S, AC 442. If you're concerned about off shore stuff...what about NGK's? ....to ach his own volition...
BOBRENTON..

BOB:
When U mentioned the (2) Champion parts U peaked my interest..
So I googled both, google responses were (1) was made in Mexico and (1) was made in Canada.
Don't know for sure but this tends to confirm later production was moved outside the USA. And as I posted previously
I have alot of apprehension of some of these auto parts which are outsourced outside the USA, mainly China.
Today for my legacy Mopar vehicles I try and stay with vintage NOS Mopar parts Made in the USA.
For example, Classic Industries has a 600 page Mopar catalog but my personal experience with
some of their electrical and mechanical parts is they look nice but tend not to last and/or to be reliable.
When I change/install replacement Mopar parts on my max wedge, I prefer to stay with the NOS Made in the USA stuff.
Call me ole school but thats my preference...
Note in my original job, I made > 100 trips to the Far East developing/sourcing certain audio/video components for some major USA brands and
I have experienced 1st hand the short cuts the factories and subcontractors do to meet the lowest price...

Just my $0.02...

 

[WileE]

BOB:
When U mentioned the (2) Champion parts U peaked my interest..
So I googled both, google responses were (1) was made in Mexico and (1) was made in Canada.
Don't know for sure but this tends to confirm later production was moved outside the USA. And as I posted previously
I have alot of apprehension of some of these auto parts which are outsourced outside the USA, mainly China.
Today for my legacy Mopar vehicles I try and stay with vintage NOS Mopar parts Made in the USA.
For example, Classic Industries has a 600 page Mopar catalog but my personal experience with
some of their electrical and mechanical parts is they look nice but tend not to last and/or to be reliable.
When I change/install replacement Mopar parts on my max wedge, I prefer to stay with the NOS Made in the USA stuff.
Call me ole school but thats my preference...
Note in my original job, I made > 100 trips to the Far East developing/sourcing certain audio/video components for some major USA brands and
I have experienced 1st hand the short cuts the factories and subcontractors do to meet the lowest price...

Just my $0.02...

Agreed. I have a stash of J11y and P34, which I have been using on all my own personal BB engines for over 50+ years... none ever fouling. As well as other Champions in hotter or cooler heat ranges. As far as I know, there were made in Toledo Ohio.

 

[bigbluedodge]

I've run RJ12YC's with good results. I like Autolite plugs but can't get them tightened up around my headers. I think I'm going to try NGK's.

 

[Geoff 2]

Your current NGK '5' are perfect. Don't be scared off by the resistor spark plug nonsense.
In this test, the only non-resistor plug made the lowest hp....