Wheel stud shank diameter for '64 drums?

[Al K]

Well,going to order some longer wheel studs for the 10" rear drums for the S.F.;I know they're 7/16 diameter on the threaded area,but what is the shank size(for the pressed in area)? Any recommendations on a preferred brand(ARP,Moroso...)? As always,thanks for the info.

Oh,while I've got you here...what's the best way to remove the old and replace with the new? Don't want to @#$% it up and have to chase down new drums.

 

[64BEL]

Are you sure they aren't 1/2" threads? That's what mine are. I was going to replace all of them and I had a heck of a time. I finally went another route for different reasons and I'm swapping in an 8 3/4 out of a '68 GTX. The drums on my original rearend are shot - too many people beat on them not knowing how to pull them off the tapered axles.

 

[Al K]

Call me a dumb ***(All together now..."You're a dumb ***!")

Yes they are 1/2";had been looking at the Jegs site,and saw "7/16" in a listing,and bloody typed it(separate windows thing). Brain fart time...

So-o-o-o...Any ideas out there? I'd "tap" one out,but like I said before,I ain't gonna screw up a good set of drums. Oh,for an arbor press! "Hello,Harbor Freight...".

 

[64BEL]

I think a torch may be needed to heat them up. I didn't have that option available when I was working on mine. I ended up buying Mopar Performance 3" long studs from Summit. My old studs just barely stick out of the lug holes on the cop wheels I have on the rear, so now I'll have plenty of threads on these new studs. I did replace a stud on a front drum. I was able to just knock that one out with no problem. The rears are really in there, though.

 

[Al K]

All right,went back to the JEGS site;they've got a Moroso 1/2"x3"x.685" knurl piece,PN 46190,"fits most Chrysler rears with 1/2" studs"(their words),and looks like what I need. Just need to see if they make them in both RH and LH threads.

...And,I need to get them in there.

 

[HitIt]

Yeah, a machine shop can easily press them out without damage and install the new ones too. Keep an eye out if they have been 'swedged' which is a pressure placed on the drum to deform the area around the stud which semi-permanently holds it on. If that's the case just take them in to you machinist, or buy the right size swedge cutting bit for your drill.

If not swedged, or you used the cutting bit you can get them out yourself usually. Lay it stud side up with a 7/8 deep socket underneath supporting the drum area around the stud. whack it good and it might pop out, if not try some heat and then hit it again. Don't hit it without the socket supporting it or the drum could crack or bend. If it doesn't come out after maybe five blows dont go bananas on it, or you could damage the drum like you mentioned.

You could probably do the same with a vice but I have never tried that myself. Good luck!

 

[64BEL]

Al,

I think you'll find them all to be RH thread. You may be able to find some LH thread in the normal size, but I don't think the long 3" come in LH. There just isn't much LH thread stuff out there, from my experience - although some of the vintage Mopar parts guys like Joe Suchy may have them.

Also, you won't be able to use regular chrome lugnuts on those 3" - they aren't deep enough. I'm switching to regular nuts for mine - those studs will stick out quite a bit.

Dave

 

[Al K]

Thanks for the advice folks! Did some checking on other sites(Summit,etc) and they all list the same-no mention of RH/LH threads. With the steel wheels,I'd planned on OEM style lugnuts;I want chrome units(hopefully they'll keep their finish longer) and now I'll need 15 RH thread pieces and 5 LH pieces...or I change the front drums to RH threads on the driver side. Or,find another drum with RH threads.I don't want to be buying no new ****;I just had these drums turned! If I have to,though,I have to...