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Would you recommend either of these motor oils?

Mr. B5

Mr. B5

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Car: 1970 RR with 440+6
I've been looking for high zinc content oils and found these 2:
Chevron Delo 400LE CJ4 15W40 $12.57/gal.
Shell Rotella T 15W40 $12.97/gal.

Will I be ok using this weight compared to 10W30?
Car is in south FL year 'round.

They seem like a cheaper alternative to Valvoline "Not for street use" oil which runs around $6.50/qt.
and seem to contain as much or more zinc and phosphorus.




 
Both great oils
Brad Penn makes another good one...
BUT: the Chevron and Shell are diesel oils. (High Detergent)
NOT to be used with cars having catylitic convertors...
(It causes cats to run extremely hot, and they fail)
Cats run hot anyway, but these destroy cat convertors.
I know, your Muscle car does not have a cat...
But the info is good to know.

I'd personally go with the Brad Penn or another "Muscle car specific" only oil as pictured below.
I'd ALSO only run a conventional oil, not sysntetic or synthetic blend.

BRAD PENN Oil history:In 1997, American Refining Group, Inc. (ARG), a privately held energy company headquartered in Philadelphia, PA, purchased the Kendall/Amalie refinery located in Bradford, PA, from Witco Corporation. As a result of the sale by Witco, of the Kendall® and Amalie® brands to a third party, a new name was given to the products produced at the site: Brad Penn® Premium Pennsylvania Grade Lubricants. Founded in 1881 at the height of the domestic oil boom, the Bradford refinery is the only refinery processing 100% Pennsylvania Grade crude oil. It is also the oldest continuously operated lube oil refinery in the world. Due to the consistency of our feedstocks, the quality of our products can be traced from the wellhead to the finished packaged product. ARG's refinery and blending and packaging operations are ISO 9001:2000 certified. The Bradford refinery was the first in the United States to carry the ISO 9002 certification.
 

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High ZDDP oils do 'pollute' cat converters faster but it takes years....and I've been using the Rotella in my newer cars for years and so far, no converters have gone away....and all oils are high detergent these days. Can you still buy non detergent oils?
 
Yes in 30 weight. I always ran Kendal for years and still do. I talked with Brad penn rep and got some very good info. I am thinking of useing there oil in the near future.
 
From what I was told there are Not as many manufactures of these oils as there is Bottles it go's in .
 
wedge69 said:
From what I was told there are Not as many manufactures of these oils as there is Bottles it go's in .
Click to expand...

Very true about a lot of stuff and I bet you are spot on with the oil.
 
The Brad penn guy was Very informetive to say the least. He didn't bash any other oils but told me how and where 90% was made. Also He told me why Kendal was Not Green anymore. Also what the diferent propertys of the oil was. Funny thing is Brad Penn MADE most of the other brand oils before branching out on there own.
Thay sold to the bigger trucking and comecial industrys for years. Being a Deisel tech I have seen all forms of oils and there efects on motors. When we ran an injected alky motor in our sprint and modified cars we would test the oil for seperation of alky. You want to oil to Absorb it NOT seperate ! My Brother who buld racing motors and has a dyno has used nothing but 15w40 in all his motors with very good results. There are others on here that know more about this than I do but this is just my input.
 
Cranky said:
High ZDDP oils do 'pollute' cat converters faster but it takes years....and I've been using the Rotella in my newer cars for years and so far, no converters have gone away....and all oils are high detergent these days. Can you still buy non detergent oils?
Click to expand...

My 02 Durango began life on Kendall (dealer serviced up to 75 K miles) and at some point after the 75K mile service contract, we suddenly got a reduction of ZDDP in oil and the cat damage story started. After the 75K mark it went on the me-myself-and-I service program but still got good oil until it was phased out completely. I did mix in a QT of "good stuff" with the SM or SN rated swill and occasionally would run Red Line. After a long relationship with SWEPCO gear oil (yep, Texas oil!), I got their motor oil for my old stuff and found they also have the 5-30 for the Durango. SWEPCO is not API certified but is said to exceed the specs and has the additive package consistent with the SL rating. Plus they have their own Dymonyl additive, which is supposedly excellent. SWEPCO is targeted for fleet maintenance. FYI: My 440 was broke in on SWEPCO and I'm pretty sure my cam stick still has bumps on it. Point is the Durango is still cruising successfully at 188K miles with all it's original cats and most other parts, but I suppose if someone has a real oil burner then that might be a good case for cat damage.
 
Meep-Meep said:
My 02 Durango began life on Kendall (dealer serviced up to 75 K miles) and at some point after the 75K mile service contract, we suddenly got a reduction of ZDDP in oil and the cat damage story started. After the 75K mark it went on the me-myself-and-I service program but still got good oil until it was phased out completely. I did mix in a QT of "good stuff" with the SM or SN rated swill and occasionally would run Red Line. After a long relationship with SWEPCO gear oil (yep, Texas oil!), I got their motor oil for my old stuff and found they also have the 5-30 for the Durango. SWEPCO is not API certified but is said to exceed the specs and has the additive package consistent with the SL rating. Plus they have their own Dymonyl additive, which is supposedly excellent. SWEPCO is targeted for fleet maintenance. FYI: My 440 was broke in on SWEPCO and I'm pretty sure my cam stick still has bumps on it. Point is the Durango is still cruising successfully at 188K miles with all it's original cats and most other parts, but I suppose if someone has a real oil burner then that might be a good case for cat damage.
Click to expand...
damm!188k with original cats is pretty impressive.i think the only reason they still make 30 wt nondetergent oil is for larger(industrial rated)air compressors.15/40 wt oil will be fine for regular gas motors,extra detergent is not that extreem.there are so many addatives in oil nowadays that it hardly matters what you run.we sell kendal oil because we can get semi synthetic at half the price of standard oil from any other supplyer.just to respond to a couple statements.
 
I have a '69 440 +6. I personally run Brad Penn 20w50 on the advice of my mechanic. It's probably not the best oil for colder weather, but it gets winterized mid-November and doesnt come out until early-April.

It costs about $6 a qt. If you buy by the case, it's cheaper. I love that it is green, so it's unmistakeable on your dipstick.

I know of people who run the diesel oil with no problems. It makes me nervous running diesel oil in a non-diesel car. To me, the piece of mind is worth the extra $$$.
 
I'm guessing you're running a flat tappet cam?
 
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