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Source for distributor bushings for rebuild

I did receive the 59 Chrysler core and it looks promising - Looks like a 1/2 longer version of the 383 one. Hope I have the nomenclature straight enough. This is the RB shaft



Both shafts side by side. The LC 36 is the 383 and the LA is the 59 RB. The 59 RB shaft is #1AZ1039LA. The cam stop is LA. The cam plate is marked LC.

The 383 DP shaft cam plate is LB with a LC cam stop on top the shaft.

IMG_4922_zps8pxprvo3.jpg


Tag on housing of 59 dist



Interesting is the 59 shaft seems to be .003" larger diameter (I measured it). It fits tight in the 383 housing - seemingly in the area where the 2nd top bushing was installed in the top of the 383 housing. The 59 shaft looks straight and fits close in the 59 housing and spins good. I will try to set it up in something to spin it and check for any runout on the shaft with a dial indicator.

My hopes were to use the 383 DP cam stop and points plate on the 59 shaft. Do you see any problems so far?
 
Take a look at the tips of the shaft as you have them down on table you will see how that will orient the distributor differently when installed. You will have to counter that if the vacuum advance interferes with fuel lines, or manifold. Or shift location of plug wires.

Also you need to set the axial thrust. The RB shaft was set up to the housing and same with your 383 version. The play may be different. Your shooting for about .007 play Important not to be too loose or too tight. Might need to use the collar that came with the shaft. They normally are drilled together and not always centered.

The cam stop is the mechanical advance piece that the points ride on. You have not shown that. What letters. The Ebay list showed the W on top. That is correct for a 4006C. What are the letters underneath it? Also what stamps on your 383 version. I can help identify it.
 
Both RB !
Picture 286.jpg
 
Sorry for the misunderstanding. The 383 cam stop has a P on it. the 59 cam stop has a pretty rusty cam lobe so planning to re-use the one with a P.




Here's the points plate - don't see any numbers on it and haven't spent any time cleaning stuff up until I figure out if I can make this thing work.



Still a little confused about the clocking of the shaft units and the tip. The drive on the end is clocked the same on both distributors - at least as much as I can tell it is within a degree or two. Is that the question?

 
Its the cam stop that is different looks to me about 45 degrees ( one tower on the cap).
Ignore this post.
 
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Its the cam stop that is different looks to me about 45 degrees ( one tower on the cap).

OK - Dragon Slayer referred to the cam stop as the advance plate the points ride on. The picture I showed is the one out of the DP 383 distributor that I hope to re-use. The 1959 core I bought did not come with one. I'm not seeing what is 45 deg off yet - may be tunnel vision thing.
 
I didn't make it clear. The flat for the rotor is in a little different position.

Ignore this post.
 
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OK - I see that - I thought the comment was about the shaft tip. But isn't that a moot issue if I'm using the DP cam stop, and DP points plate on the longer shaft in the DP case? I do see the ends of the P cam stop are a bit narrowed on the ends compared to the one that came out of the 59 core with it's shaft. Need to trial fit the P one on the shaft to see if that will interfere in any way - but I don't think so.

Thanks for all the help. Many little subtle differences in distributor parts and I'm learning a few new ones.
 
Prob not spin it in the housing also.
 
Best way to clean and regrease the breaker plate is to drill the rivets then re rivet it together.
 
Your going to be ok with that shaft, I went back and checked and the tip orientation is the same for the LA versus a RB IBS distributor type.

What is the 2 letter code on the bottom of the one marked P? The one I have with P on top had LB underneath and it was from an IBS-4011C DP for a 413 4 barrel (C300 mechanical Tach drive distributor). It should be a good cam for you as the mechanical advance is 10degree which means you can use more initial timing. (More performance oriented). Sounds like someone did piece together that distributor.

Just measure flat to flat to make sure it is about .98". The one marked W is probably about .95". As mentioned earlier DP have a larger diameter cam surface for working the dual points. Single Point Prestolite use a smaller dia cam.

And yes, those Cam Stops (what service manual calls them) do have different flat clocking where the rotor attached. Again, used in conjunction with the shaft tip offset to determine distributor orientation on a specific motor with location of #1 wire. As long as the service manual is followed to place the drive shaft slot in line with crank and camshaft while on TDC #1 cylinder when building motor.
 
The black tabs on bottom of breaker plate just need to be pried up a little and turned top and bottom will separate.
 
Yup just remember not to put them back together 180 out!
 
The black tabs on bottom of breaker plate just need to be pried up a little and turned top and bottom will separate.
Never tried that I usually drill them out and change the ground wire also. They have broken in half trying to get the shape back to hold the bearing in tight. Dam tabs are hard to find also.
 
Never tried that I usually drill them out and change the ground wire also. They have broken in half trying to get the shape back to hold the bearing in tight. Dam tabs are hard to find also.

Been taking them apart for years,have to do the that to have re plated and replace ground wire.Have a few extra tabs if you ever get in a bind.Hardest thing I have found is trying to get a close match to the original wire,have found some wire that will suffice but no exact match !
 
Thanks. I do zinc plating here also. Helps out a lot on this stuff. Been able to find upper and lower plates mostly the 40-50 stuff nos. Wonder how much longer they will be around?
 
Its funny how many tools you start to get doing this stuff. I am ready to get another HF machinist box just for them. Did that for my wiring stuff. Actually like those boxes and the price is right.
 
Tell you what took me a while to find the right rivets. I actually found some at a surpluss place I go to. They sell them by the #:rofl:
 
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