JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Once I get the EFI installed I am going be buy a couple of these and put them on the front fenders just to mess with people 
1968 Coronet 500 Project
- Thread starter JimKueneman
- Start date
JimKueneman
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Disappointing day.... Lets start from last night. Laid out the DMT heater box rebuild kit.
And dry fit it.
If you recall from the other photos mine had insulation in this half of the case. Jim from DMT said he has never seen one that was not styrofoam! Thought maybe they ran out of foam at the factory and hacked out some fiberglass or something.
Here are the valves with their carbon foam mocked up.
This morning I glued in the styrofoam with weatherstrip adhesive as suggested in the instructions.
The inner blanks are great for masks to spray the glue and not get it where you don't want it.
All glued up with contact adhesive.
Built up the heater core and h-valve. This was where things started down hill....
Now is time to pressure test the assembly... An old filter capacitor fits perfectly into a 5/8 hose to make a plug!
And dry fit it.
If you recall from the other photos mine had insulation in this half of the case. Jim from DMT said he has never seen one that was not styrofoam! Thought maybe they ran out of foam at the factory and hacked out some fiberglass or something.
Here are the valves with their carbon foam mocked up.
This morning I glued in the styrofoam with weatherstrip adhesive as suggested in the instructions.
The inner blanks are great for masks to spray the glue and not get it where you don't want it.
All glued up with contact adhesive.
Built up the heater core and h-valve. This was where things started down hill....
Now is time to pressure test the assembly... An old filter capacitor fits perfectly into a 5/8 hose to make a plug!
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I then filled up a garbage can with water and set my regulator to 25lbs on my compressor. I used my Snap-on nozzle with a rubber tip that will seal over the other heater pipe and I dunked the core up to the pipes..
Damn....
The core has a lot of small failures where the solder appears to have eaten away over the years. The solder everywhere looks very pitted and etched. Not good. It needs to be reflowed everywhere before I would trust it. Damn, I did not want this expenditure but I guess I have no choice. The H-Value will start to bubble at about 35lb. If I am buying a core I will buy a H-Valve too....
Got frustrated and came in to blow off steam cooking nice dinner...
Damn....
The core has a lot of small failures where the solder appears to have eaten away over the years. The solder everywhere looks very pitted and etched. Not good. It needs to be reflowed everywhere before I would trust it. Damn, I did not want this expenditure but I guess I have no choice. The H-Value will start to bubble at about 35lb. If I am buying a core I will buy a H-Valve too....
Got frustrated and came in to blow off steam cooking nice dinner...
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JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Oh the evaporator does not seem to have any leaks for a bit of good news.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I had that debate in my head. The specs are an AC car needs to run up to 18 so I chose 25 to blow any solder that was marginal and could fail later due to the thermal expansion and contraction that the core has not experienced in 33 years. Better to find them now than later.
Glen-Ray will recore and restore it for $250. Well worth it as a repro is more than that list.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
So I am stopped on the heater box until I send in my core to Glen-Ray for a rebuild. Moved back to the power train tonight. I have been frustrated with the aluminum manifold. I did not want to use brass or steel fittings due to the galvanic corrosion issues of non-similar metals but have struggled to find aluminum nipples that would work correctly for the bypass hose. I have FINALLY found a short 3/4" NPT to 3/4 Barb fitting that looks short enough and has multiple barbs like I wanted. A Dixon AST5 looks like just the ticket. Still struggling to find a 3/8" NPT to 5/8" Barb Aluminum fitting....
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Interesting...
http://www.chargersourceguide.com/heatercontrolvalve.html
CVI of Sweden bought out Ranco and the same valve used on my car was used on Volvos..... This gives another options when I get that far....
It is Volvo #673452 and there knock offs from China for less than $200
I am not paying $455 for a NOS version of this valve off eBay...
http://www.chargersourceguide.com/heatercontrolvalve.html
CVI of Sweden bought out Ranco and the same valve used on my car was used on Volvos..... This gives another options when I get that far....
It is Volvo #673452 and there knock offs from China for less than $200
I am not paying $455 for a NOS version of this valve off eBay...
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Well the heater core was dropped off at the UPS Store today for a trip to the frozen white north for a rebuild at Glen-ray. Everyone says they the best work there is in Mopar cooling. I came to the realization that I should stop resisting and throwing those AARP applications in the trash. AAA or AARP cards at the UPS store get you some serious discounts. It ended up being $30 cheaper than I first thought to have them box it up and send it out.
Not getting much done this weekend. I am in the mode of needing little odds and ends and putter work. I don't have anymore big projects left that I can just make the decision to spend the weekend to knock out and I have all that is necessary to finish in the garage. I am also in the place where I need to cut loose about $3k to get the rest of what I need to make the next push to completion (EFI parts and TTI exhaust). I joked on another thread about rims that I am going to start up Go-Fund-Me account (https://www.gofundme.com) to help subsidize the rest of the built
Not getting much done this weekend. I am in the mode of needing little odds and ends and putter work. I don't have anymore big projects left that I can just make the decision to spend the weekend to knock out and I have all that is necessary to finish in the garage. I am also in the place where I need to cut loose about $3k to get the rest of what I need to make the next push to completion (EFI parts and TTI exhaust). I joked on another thread about rims that I am going to start up Go-Fund-Me account (https://www.gofundme.com) to help subsidize the rest of the built
Come on down, I'll put you to work
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
We will actually be rolling through Yuma the weekend after next, not sure if we are going to split the trip up and stay over there Thursday night or not.Come on down, I'll put you to work
If you split it up, let me know and we can meet somewhere for food.
You probably already know, but there is a Mopar car show in Glendale Feb 19th. The H.E.M.I show. I am planning to drive the Belvedere up that Sunday.
JimKueneman
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Yup. Thinking of riding up with Billccm from here. Will let you know.
JimKueneman
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Maybe I'll drop off some of my projects and pick them up on Monday during the return trip
JimKueneman
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Well another cold and wet weekend in the desert. Went out to do a bit of tinkering realized I never ordered a new condenser for the distributor. It was cold (for here) in the garage and I lost interest. Too dark with the door shut and cold to paint, or glue so I got nothing done.
Glenwood
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At least you're honest lol
JimKueneman
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Heater core is enroute to Glen-ray for rebuilding and heater control valve is on its way to Jim at www.heatercontrolvalve for rebuilding.
JimKueneman
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Seems weird not making any progress for so long. Second weekend in a row that it was cold, windy and raining so I had no interest in going out in the garage. Next weekend is a road trip to Hollywood for a show. Weekend after that the heater core and valve should be back. It should be warming up, January is usually the worst of it in Arizona. I need to shoot some SPI Clear on the engine too. After talking to Barry this is a great option to keep the spray can Mopar paint on the engine and looking good for years to come. Should have done it earlier so the first warm day I will strip off the accessories, lift it out of the K frame and shoot the clear with it hanging off the engine hoist.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Ok, winter has broken and it is warming to the low 70's for the next 10 days. I am getting back in the groove. I have my new "h" valve from Joe http://www.heatervalves.net for the heater box and all my little nuts, bolts and actuators from several member here. My heater core from Glen-ray should be on its way home. I also ordered the fuel tank, sending unit and fuel pump from Tanks Inc for the fuel injection so I am now committed. Plan on shooting the engine with SPI Universal Clear this weekend and the power train/k-frame will be assembled for score next week. Time to get serious again now that it is warming up!
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Absolutely perfect day in southern Arizona today! My juices are flowing. Received the tank, EFI pump and sending unit. I was going to paint the tank but it is already powder coated a silver color. I can work with that. Painted the straps black for contrast. Done with that.
Pulled the engine back down and shot two thick coats of SPI Universal Clear on everything to give it some shine and seal it up. The poly urethane is way harder than the rattle can. I got a bit of pipe sealer on the red and it had attacked the red paint. I did get most of it reassembled but it was getting dark and did not get any photos. Tomorrow I should have the running gear to the point of installation!
The SPI UC goes on like glass and is almost impossible to run.... looks beautiful.
Pulled the engine back down and shot two thick coats of SPI Universal Clear on everything to give it some shine and seal it up. The poly urethane is way harder than the rattle can. I got a bit of pipe sealer on the red and it had attacked the red paint. I did get most of it reassembled but it was getting dark and did not get any photos. Tomorrow I should have the running gear to the point of installation!
The SPI UC goes on like glass and is almost impossible to run.... looks beautiful.
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