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'73 Charger Build Log

I ran the fuel lines through the frame rail connectors.

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How did you handle the other end ?
 
How did you handle the other end ?

The plan is to run the line near the frame rail along the floor to the shock crossover where it will make a turn. The filter will mounted in the center of the shock crossover. The filter is a C5 Corvette fuel filter with two quick fitting on either side rated at 250 psi that is mounted with a rubber coated steal band clamp. The clamp will mount to a 3/8" ARP bolt (left over from the intake) used like a stud. The filter is $15 and available at every part store in the country compared to Holley $100 filter that is rated exactly the same.

Then, it's just a short 18" line from the filter to the pump head. The vent line will run directly to the pump from the TB. I'm planning to use a 90 and 45 degree fitting at the pump.

Thanks again for pointing out the NHRA rules. I almost made a huge mistake. I'm compliance with the rule book with this system with the exception of a port to get a fuel sample.
 
Cool ..sounds like you got it under control..

I need to get this bad decision out of the way so I can get back to my fuel issues..

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Nice. I need to get this EFI project in the done and paid-for column so I can get started a bike project. I sold my KLR 650 in October because 35 hp just won't cut it! Here's my collection of toys sorted by color last September. I'm looking at getting a Triumph Tiger 800 with a digital dash or a 108 ci cruiser.

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And of course I still have the red truck, now with new shoes! $35 for 37" 80-90% Baja T/A!

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Nice , well mine is humm..well the title says it's a 97 1200 sportster...and the numbers match the engine..but that's about the only thing sportster..
It broke down in my shops parking lot , and after 3 weeks of it in my face , I bought it for 800 bucks ..(too much time to look at it )
The carb issue is no problem, what is kicking my but is turn signals and brake light ...its a blend of a few harnesses, so colors dont line up well..
But at that price I figured I could work my magic and have a cool little scooter for the summer..you know to work out the charger frustration..lol..

Pre tare down pics

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I started the EFI project in December. Here it is April and I'm just about ready to crank her up for the first time.

I changed the air cleaner and painted the intake winkle black. I think it looks awesome. The coil was moved to the firewall to get it away from the electronics in the EFI. I will be switching to the Holley CD ignition unit when I upgrade the alternator to a 220 amp one wire unit. This is mainly because I plan to mount the controller box where the regulator is now, and the new coil where the old coil is. I won't do these upgrade until the EFI upgrade is paid off.

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This is a American Autowire 510599 'Serve Duty' relay and fuse box for the EFI, Ignition, Fuel pump, headlights, and fans. I mounted it in the fender well because I had no where else to cleanly mount it. It's mounted with 2-1/2" 5/16 stainless steel bolts with 1-1/4" spacers. I'm going to see just how 'serve duty' this thing really is. Any color wire with be covered with the same black mesh as the rest of the harness. Can't have any color showing!
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Stock alternator wire verse 4 awg upgrade. I should have no problem pumping 220 amps. I reused the old wire for the fuel pump ground, lol.
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New driver side ground mount. It's a nickle plated copper grounding bolt. There's one just like this on the same spot on the passenger side to ground the alternator. If you're running 220 amp, you need to ground the alternator directly to the frame as grounding through the engine won't cut it.
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What I don't have shown is all the rewiring to the factory harness. The blue and brown off the key now goes through a timed relay that powers a pink wire to turn on the fuse box. The voltage regulator is it own sub harness getting power off the coil which has it own 12v power coming off the fuse box. I converted the headlight to ground trigger system.

I got tired of unplugging the dash panel when I went to remove it so i cut the harness and wired in a 10 pin plug. The two pin plug is for the dash lights which I converted to LED. I still need to work on that as the voltage is too high to dim the LEDs.

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First crank failed because I had the coil unplugged. Connected the coil and it fired right up. Burned off a bit of oil, then it settled into a nice 650 rpm idle at 13.8 A/F ratio with 14 to 15 degrees of timing. Alternator kicked out 13.8 volts. Man, I never heard this old girl idle so smoothly. All the money and time I spent on this project was well worth it.
 
Great work! Hey if that fuse box location works out for you, are you going to put some sort of splash shield over it?

Georgia Bulldogs, I see ya.
 
Great work! Hey if that fuse box location works out for you, are you going to put some sort of splash shield over it?

Georgia Bulldogs, I see ya.

I'm not planning on ever driving in the rain, but I have thought about making a shield out of a sheet of black ABS plastic.

I'm a big time Dawg fan and Gator Hator.
 
The 727 finally died. I broke the torque converter back in 2018 racing a 2018 Dodge Charger 392. The torque converter beat the snot out of the input bushing which finally lead to a EPA super-fund site in my garage. Not really, but the oil slick was 14 feet long and a foot wide.

So, I'm swapping in a Termec TKX close ratio with a 0.68 5th gear.
 
I bought a second Charger for $5500. I took the seats, wheels, hood, interior panels, and swapped them with one from the 1st Charger. The 2nd Charger had no brakes, rear axles bearings was shot, spindles were gone, and the 727 pan gasket was leaking, so I swapped those part from the 1st Charger to the 2nd Charger, which left the 1st Charger plucked clean.

I sold the 2nd Charger for a mega profit.

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I used the extra money to buy 2" drop spindles, Wilwoods disc, Hydrotech booster, new axles, 3.55 gear, and a torsion style rear diff.

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