Can of rusty worms

[mr. b]

that is looking great almost there let us know how it runs

 

[Glenwood]

Cam breakin is done! Followed lunati's intructions to the letter. No leaks, no overheating yay!
Man that engune throws a lot of heat though. Cooked my hands pretty good adjusting the throttle stop.
Now I can schedule the exhaust and alignment!!!!

 

[kiwigtx]

Congrats Glen. It's a great feeling to get the engine running.

 

[Glenwood]

So do you guys change the breakin oil right after a cam breakin or wait 500 miles?

 

[Glenwood]

it's alive!

 

[JimKueneman]

So do you guys change the breakin oil right after a cam breakin or wait 500 miles?

500 miles per my engine guy because he is thorough and takes extra effort in getting the block clean (his words not mine). So far it has seemed to be true.

 

[JimKueneman]

Cam breakin is done! Followed lunati's intructions to the letter. No leaks, no overheating yay!
Man that engune throws a lot of heat though. Cooked my hands pretty good adjusting the throttle stop.
Now I can schedule the exhaust and alignment!!!!

Yea, modern engines are WAY WAY more effective in making HP and not heat

 

[JimKueneman]

Are you going to get that thing on the road before the north freezes over again? ;)

 

[Glenwood]

Are you going to get that thing on the road before the north freezes over again? ;)

That's the million dollar question Jim! Exhaust is booked for Monday, so it may even be possible. The damn timing tape flew off so I have to get a new style timing light I guess. I still don't quite get how to set the timing to the way guys are doing it today with initial and at a certain rpm, etc.
I need to get a driveshaft made and get the pinion angle adjusted before any serious driving. My damn fuel & oil gauges aren't working, but my temperature gauge seems okay, so more fun ahead...

 

[miller]

I still don't quite get how to set the timing to the way guys are doing it today with initial and at a certain rpm, etc.

I'm going by my own experience, and what most of the guys reminded me of, that the BB Mopars respond best at 36* to 38* all in advanced timing. Example...my distributor has 24* advance set in...24* from 36*=12*. That's where my initial timing is set.
Only gauge on mine that didn't work, was my fuel gauge...nothing. Knew the gauge itself was good, since I tested it. Checked using a test light, to see if I was getting power to the sending unit, off the wire. Yeah, it's reduced, on, off, then will blink.
Checked ground, first at the sending unit, to fuel line...big resistance. Wound up the re-pop ground strap over the rubber hose connection. Dang cheap thing wouldn't make good contact on the steel fuel lines. Wrapped a piece of 12 gauge wire around both lines, for a test...gauge works perfect. Just have to find a good strap, now.
Maybe one more hint. If you look at the steel fuel line, from the tank connection, it goes straight up to the body, and makes a bend to the passenger side. At that bend, above the tank connection, should be a screw hole. On mine, there's a steel clamp, around the fuel line, that fastens at that screw hole. That's the 'positive' ground connection, for the gauge.
Edit...correction, ground for the sending unit. Duh.

 

[Glenwood]

I'm going by my own experience, and what most of the guys reminded me of, that the BB Mopars respond best at 36* to 38* all in advanced timing. Example...my distributor has 24* advance set in...24* from 36*=12*. That's where my initial timing is set.
Only gauge on mine that didn't work, was my fuel gauge...nothing. Knew the gauge itself was good, since I tested it. Checked using a test light, to see if I was getting power to the sending unit, off the wire. Yeah, it's reduced, on, off, then will blink.
Checked ground, first at the sending unit, to fuel line...big resistance. Wound up the re-pop ground strap over the rubber hose connection. Dang cheap thing wouldn't make good contact on the steel fuel lines. Wrapped a piece of 12 gauge wire around both lines, for a test...gauge works perfect. Just have to find a good strap, now.
Maybe one more hint. If you look at the steel fuel line, from the tank connection, it goes straight up to the body, and makes a bend to the passenger side. At that bend, above the tank connection, should be a screw hole. On mine, there's a steel clamp, around the fuel line, that fastens at that screw hole. That's the 'positive' ground connection, for the gauge.

What do you mean your distributor has 24* advance set in? I need some schoolin' on this subject. Some say to advance the timing at idle (800 rpm?) with the vacuum advance disconnected until the engine starts to ping and then back off. The scale on the timing cover is +/- 10* I believe, so how do you get to 12*? At that point, what is the next step? Some distributors have an adjustable vacuum advance through the vacuum port/inlet, but I'm not sure if this is to be altered.

My fuel gauge worked before, but I cannot remember if it was accurate (it's been that long!). I checked the ground with my fluke and the fuel line has a good connection to the body and is bonded to the sender fuel line via the strap. Seems ok to me. The sender though has 87ohms with about 5-6 gallons of fuel in the tank. This seems off the scale as I thought the range is about 10 ohms (full) to 73 ohms (empty). I have a resistor board and may try connecting the sender to it to check the gauge operation. I figure the oil sender is probably shot as I had two (one from the poly) and may have installed the wrong one. I'm hunting for a deal on gauges as I prefer to know real numbers rather than the oem lines. Sometimes, I feel like replacing the entire cluster with a plate and new gauges.

 

[miller]

What do you mean your distributor has 24* advance set in?

I'm using a Mallory dual point, mechanical advance. The 24* advance that's 'set in', simply means it's that number of degrees, that the adjustable stops are set at. The amount of advance degrees, can be adjusted, by those stops. The rate, or how slow/quick can be adjusted, by the advance springs. If you have your distributor in place, in the engine, pull the cap. Then, by hand, twist (in rotation) the rotor...the amount, or degrees, the rotor rotates, is the amount of 'set' advance degrees, in your distributor. If in a fix, you can use a draftman's degree wheel, starting at 0*, to get an idea how much advance you have, even if it's a little crude.
Your's is vacuum advance? If I remember right...pull the vacuum hose, and plug/cap where it goes. You only want to look at the (yes) mechanical advance, that's inside the distributor!
Then, fire it up, and set your initial timing, with timing light. Once set, then hook the vacuum hose back up. Think that's right. Advance degrees is controlled by 'stops', on the advance plate, inside the distributor...even for vacuum advance.

 

[miller]

The sender though has 87ohms with about 5-6 gallons of fuel in the tank. This seems off the scale as I thought the range is about 10 ohms (full) to 73 ohms (empty).

Yep, your correct. The sender scale is wrong...though should be adjustable, via tab stops. Have to pull sender to get to them.
I tossed 10 gallons in my tank, to see if it read about 1/2. After some running I've done, and got the gauge to work, reads just under 1/2, now.

 

[drobertson]

So I guess it's not so much a rusty can of worms anymore? Great work! I really like the way the headlights are set up with the grille on those cars.

 

[dodge413]

Glen,
Nicely documented. I've got a 63 polara with a Poly. I'm going to swap out that engine for a 413 as well. Sounds like my C body oil might might fit afterall. Not sure of the number on the pan... What about the torsion bars? Did you reuse the 318 ones? I was thinking I'd need to upgrade to BB bars.
Thanks

 

[moparnation74]

The worms are alive...Congrats!

 

[Glenwood]

Glen,
Nicely documented. I've got a 63 polara with a Poly. I'm going to swap out that engine for a 413 as well. Sounds like my C body oil might might fit afterall. Not sure of the number on the pan... What about the torsion bars? Did you reuse the 318 ones? I was thinking I'd need to upgrade to BB bars.
Thanks

The C body pan i used is typically used on bb a bodies. I still shaved the kframe a bit back to the welds though.

I left the sb torsion bars for now but plan to swap them out later when i upgrade the suspension and disc brakes. I think they'll be fine for my occasional cruisin this year but haven't driven it yet. I changed the valves springs yesterday (which were a mofo btw!) and I'm scheduled for exhaust monday amd alignment wednesday!

 

[Glenwood]

So I guess it's not so much a rusty can of worms anymore? Great work! I really like the way the headlights are set up with the grille on those cars.

Thanks! Not much rust on her now.

 

[Glenwood]

Yep, your correct. The sender scale is wrong...though should be adjustable, via tab stops. Have to pull sender to get to them.
I tossed 10 gallons in my tank, to see if it read about 1/2. After some running I've done, and got the gauge to work, reads just under 1/2, now.

Funny thing i my oil gauge came back to life after i swapped the valve springs and fired her up!

 

[Glenwood]

The worms are alive...Congrats!

They're going to be rubber worms on the pavement soon!