Supercharging....

[HYRDGOON]

I think it's the Mopar mentality that stands in the way of people thinking these blocks will hold power not the blocks themselves. I know 3 guys just around where I live all making great numbers (800 plus at the wheels!) with reliable drivers... all 3 RB block 440 strokers... one with Indy heads an an F1X Procharger FAST EFI, another F2 Procharged with Stealth Heads and the third with a 103mm single turbo, stealth heads and Holley EFI. These cars are NOT trailer queens... they get daily driven as well as driven to the track and beat on. And a Lo-deck would be an even better candidate!

 

[HYRDGOON]

Sorry 747
I’ve seen your work and didn’t realize I would upset people for encouraging you. I’ll keep my opinions to myself.
Thanks joe.

I think that's a HUGE Part of it. If you aren't familiar with Devin (747) and know/seen what he is capable of then this could definitely be done on a budget and more importantly done RIGHT! Whatever way you go Dev it's going to make a baddass car more baddasser lol

 

[747mopar]

Sorry 747
I’ve seen your work and didn’t realize I would upset people for encouraging you. I’ll keep my opinions to myself.
Thanks joe.

Don't worry about upsetting anybody, my thread my rules lol. I'll listen to all input but in the end I'll make up my own mind and my mind is saying BOOST IT! Unfortunately after seeing the total cost I'm not doing it soon unless I come across a deal.

Problem is I don't know enough yet but thanks to Goon I'm getting a better idea. Really knowing where I'm at will help tremendously as far as setting a goal so maybe a dyno this spring and go from there.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Sorry 747
I’ve seen your work and didn’t realize I would upset people for encouraging you. I’ll keep my opinions to myself.
Thanks joe.

Joe, that wasn't my intention if directed toward me. Supercharging is great, but you have to be in it for the long-haul with a purpose built application for a BBM. If this was a newer GEN III Hemi this wouldn't even be a discussion, bolt on a Magnuson and go. I swapped a Paxton on a friends Coyote at a military hobby shop over the course of a weekend while we were in military training. We installed a boost-a-pump and larger injectors as well. Made 610 +/- rwhp on a conservative tune. Unfortunately, we are using simple, mechanical devices like blow-through carbs and distributors, without the ability to adapt on-the-fly to varying conditions and who knows how much deviation (in timing alone) throughout the load ranges in daily driving conditions. Check out some of the safeguards put in place on the 6.2 Demon engine, we are building stone-age tech in comparison.

 

[747mopar]

Joe, that wasn't my intention if directed toward me. Supercharging is great, but you have to be in it for the long-haul with a purpose built application for a BBM. If this was a newer GEN III Hemi this wouldn't even be a discussion, bolt on a Magnuson and go. I swapped a Paxton on a friends Coyote at a military hobby shop over the course of a weekend while we were in military training. We installed a boost-a-pump and larger injectors as well. Made 610 +/- rwhp on a conservative tune. Unfortunately, we are using simple, mechanical devices like blow-through carbs and distributors, without the ability to adapt on-the-fly to varying conditions and who knows how much deviation (in timing alone) throughout the load ranges in daily driving conditions. Check out some of the safeguards put in place on the 6.2 Demon engine, we are building stone-age tech in comparison.

When I first started looking into this I naturally started looking at all the top supercharger companies, carb tuners, engine builders, ect and I got the same answer everytime.... no problem do X Y & Z. I get that it's not as simple as bolting parts on but it has been done successfully many times to BB Mopars so that's not a question the question is how much.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I think it's the Mopar mentality that stands in the way of people thinking these blocks will hold power not the blocks themselves. I know 3 guys just around where I live all making great numbers (800 plus at the wheels!) with reliable drivers... all 3 RB block 440 strokers... one with Indy heads an an F1X Procharger FAST EFI, another F2 Procharged with Stealth Heads and the third with a 103mm single turbo, stealth heads and Holley EFI. These cars are NOT trailer queens... they get daily driven as well as driven to the track and beat on. And a Lo-deck would be an even better candidate!





View attachment 544112 View attachment 544113 View attachment 544114 View attachment 544115 View attachment 544116

Yes.. all with true - EFI. EFI.. EFI... Ask them next time you see them, 'daily driving', how much have they invested in their builds. . . Easily $6,000+ for the complete kit from thesuperchargerstore alone. Then another $2,000+ for a proper fuel system (EFI). I believe the blocks can handle a bit more than most claim if the tune is spot-on, but then again, I wouldn't leave anything up to chance when starting a build like that; always have a safety net. Just my honest opinion.

BTW, F2 Procharged 440. Daily driver myth debunked, guy is expecting a single electric pusher fan to keep it cool in traffic. Must live in Alaska. lol.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

When I first started looking into this I naturally started looking at all the top supercharger companies, carb tuners, engine builders, ect and I got the same answer everytime.... no problem do X Y & Z. I get that it's not as simple as bolting parts on but it has been done successfully many times to BB Mopars so that's not a question the question is how much.

I would guess, at least $6,000 on the very low end (if done right). What most don't usually add in is the pumps, hoses, AN fittings, all the small items that nickle and dime you to death. I have a complete log of everything I purchased and priced it all out, it was well above what I originally estimated on my build. If you do it yourself, you may want to take a hard look at the FiTech 1200 PA unit over a CSU carburetor (budget options). If you are dead-set on going supercharged, we can help.

 

[747mopar]

Yes.. all with true - EFI. EFI.. EFI... Ask them next time you see them, 'daily driving', how much have they invested in their builds. . . Easily $6,000+ for the complete kit from thesuperchargerstore alone. Then another $2,000+ for a proper fuel system (EFI). I believe the blocks can handle a bit more than most claim if the tune is spot-on, but then again, I wouldn't leave anything up to chance when starting a build like that; always have a safety net. Just my honest opinion.

BTW, F2 Procharged 440. Daily driver myth debunked, guy is expecting a single electric pusher fan to keep it cool in traffic. Must live in Alaska. lol.

Explain.. Supposedly the dump valve will dump boost while vacuum is present? So if he's idling he's naturally aspirated at that time correct?

 

[Average Joe]

I thought I would add some pics for you Dev. I think you have seen these before.This is system that I had before I switched to injection and the fuel system I sold to mike AKA GOON. This system I put 840HP to the tire with the carburetor. Not sure if GOON was including the fuel system with what you guys were working out.one of the pics is when the car was on the dyno. I have done 70 pulls on the dyno. With the carb
I did 12 pulls to get to 840hp. The other 58 where to get the injection dialed in.LOL

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I thought I would add some pics for you Dev. I think you have seen these before.This is system that I had before I switched to injection and the fuel system I sold to mike AKA GOON. This system I put 840HP to the tire with the carburetor. Not sure if GOON was including the fuel system with what you guys were working out.one of the pics is when the car was on the dyno. I have done 70 pulls on the dyno. With the carb
I did 12 pulls to get to 840hp. The other 58 where to get the injection dialed in.LOL

View attachment 544264 View attachment 544265 View attachment 544267 View attachment 544268

Awesome power, and yes, tuning is critical; it’s fairly easy to tune for WOT as you run it fat and simply lean it out. A lot of guys now believe the ‘self tuning’ EFI is a miracle worker, already seen on engine destroyed when they relied on it rather than the dyno for the initial tune. It gets insane when you factor in all the variable loads that street driving puts on these systems, the dyno takes most of those variables out. It took me a year to get everything perfect on the street, 14.5:1 idle/cruise and a safe WOT AFR. Getting tip in perfect, changing out multiple sets of air bleeds, squirters, cams, and jets. I’m guessing you were running race fuel and meth injection as I don’t see an intercooler, must have been running 15+ psi I imagine. I’ll be happy to get 450 to the tire N/A on pump gas. Kinda sad really out of a stout 470ci engine! EFI is the way to go, I would have went that route if they were proven reliable as an OEM application. Carb is simplistic and trouble free for the most part, one less thing to go wrong while cruising on an older car. I’ll have to talk to my friend again and ask his opinion about the FiTech 1200 PA, he’s been using it for quite awhile.

Btw how much did 70 runs on the dyno cost you!? Sounds like more than my entire engine build. It’s $300+ locally to do a few pulls with minor tuning.

 

[747mopar]

Happy to get 450 out of a 470.... please explain?

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Awesome power, and yes, tuning is critical; it’s fairly easy to tune for WOT as you run it fat and simply lean it out. A lot of guys now believe the ‘self tuning’ EFI is a miracle worker, already seen on engine destroyed when they relied on it rather than the dyno for the initial tune. It gets insane when you factor in all the variable loads that street driving puts on these systems, the dyno takes most of those variables out. It took me a year to get everything perfect on the street, 14.5:1 idle/cruise and a safe WOT AFR. Getting tip in perfect, changing out multiple sets of air bleeds, squirters, cams, and jets. I’m guessing you were running race fuel and meth injection as I don’t see an intercooler, must have been running 15+ psi I imagine. I’ll be happy to get 450 to the tire N/A on pump gas. Kinda sad really out of a stout 470ci engine! EFI is the way to go, I would have went that route if they were reliable as an OEM application. Carb is simplistic and trouble free for the most part, one less thing to go wrong while cruising on an older car.

Btw how much did 70 runs on the dyno cost you!!? Sounds like more than my entire engine build

Happy to get 450 out of a 470.... please explain?

I want to say that this is just an unhappy dyno, but realistically, the newer cars (bottom) were right around the range that I expected them to be. Take dynograph numbers with a grain-of-salt if from varying sources (MPH at the track doesn't lie), they're just a tuning aid. This is nice because all of these cars are running under identical calibrations, so the results are relative.

BTW - a factory 440 (375hp) car will be lucky to put 260-280 to the tire (when new). You'll lose probably 20% +/- through the drivetrain with a 727 depending on converter and rear end, less with an 833 (or manual trans). True 600 HP BBM engines should put down around 460-480 rwhp. 450hp engines, somewhere around 340-360 rwhp. The difference is, newer drivelines, are averaging anywhere between 10-15% loss. That is why a new 485 HP 6.4/392 will dyno around 430-440 rwhp. In our cars, bolted to our original 833/727's (sb trans) and dana 60/8.75 rears, it may make only around 370-380 rwhp.

AndyF ended up making 474 hp to the tire @ 5,700 rpm (560 hp on engine dyno) with his 466ci engine (low-deck) using cast-iron exhaust manifolds with OOTB Eddy heads. He is using a manual trans which will only be around 15% loss, but still, easy power at a relatively low-rpm. Amazing street engine.

Here are some results from a Mopar dyno shootout;
1969 Plymouth GTX
285.8 HP <-way-y-y too many cubes for those heads. Probably peaks around 4,500 rpm, making a mountain of torque in the process. What on Earth was he thinking, but probably an awesome 'fun' build to smoke tires. Bigger is not always better unless the engine has enough cylinder head to support it.
Car owner: Ted English
Hometown: Conneaut, OH
Engine: 543ci RB-series 440 Wedge, Holley 850, Edelbrock Torker intake, 440Source cylinder heads, COMP hydraulic roller cam
Exhaust: Doug’s 2-inch diameter long-tube headers, Hooker mufflers
Transmission: A727 TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic

1969 Dodge Charger Daytona
302.7 HP <-near factory build.
Car owner: Paul Prescott
Hometown: Conneaut, OH
Engine: 440ci RB-Series big-block Wedge, 10.5:1 compression, Holley 750 carb, Edebrock Street Dominator intake, Erson hydraulic cam (.502-inch lift)
Exhaust: Doug’s 2-inch long-tube headers, Flowmaster mufflers
Transmission: A727 TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic

1974 Dodge Charger
303.5 HP <-408 cubes. Not enough cylinder head.
Car owner: David Mate (original owner!)
Hometown: Toledo, OH
Engine: 408ci LA-series small-block (360), 9.8:1 compression, 750 Speed Demon carb, RHM LAX heads, Lunato cam, 1972-vintage Mopar 360 block
Exhaust: TTi headers, Flowmaster mufflers
Transmission: A727 TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic with Gear Vendors overdrive

1962 Dodge Polara 500
334.7 HP <-shows what a waste (imho) 440Source heads are, in terms of advertised flow. Cam isn't helping him out either.
Car Owner: J.R. Hary
Hometown: Princeton, IN
Engine: 446ci RB-Series 440 Wedge, 10:1 compression, 870cfm Holley, Edelbrock Torker intake, 440Source cylinder heads, COMP hydraulic cam (286/256 degrees at .050-inch lift, .545-/.535-inch lift)
Exhaust: Hedman long-tube headers
Transmission: pushbutton TorqueFlite A727 3-speed automatic

1966 Dodge Coronet
339.2 HP <-pretty good with factory heads. He's running race fuel to make what a factory 5.7 GEN III Hemi does, stock.
Car owner: David Patterson
Hometown: Owasso, OK
Engine: 440ci RB-series big-block Wedge, 11.7:1, Demon 825 carb, 906 casting cylinder heads, Mopar M1 intake, Hughes hydraulic cam
Exhaust: TTi 2 ¼-inch long-tube headers, Ti mufflers
Transmission: A727 TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic

1970 Plymouth ’Cuda
401.8 HP <- Great combo.
Car owner: Mark Jacobs
Hometown: Eighty Four, PA
Engine: 422ci 340 LA-Series small-block, 10.25: 1 compression, 950cfm carb, 340 Victor intake, 220 Airwolf cylinder heads, MSD ignition, Lunati hydraulic cam with 301 degrees duration (.050-inch lift), .585-inch lift
Exhaust: 1 7.8-inch TTi headers, Magnaflow mufflers
Transmission: A833 4-speed manual

1977 Dodge Power Wagon
449.7 HP <- $25,000+ in this Hemi to make what a factory 6.4/392 SRT does to the tire. Shows how inefficient the rest of the drive line is, in comparison to newer technology.
Car owner: Randy Slovikosky
Hometown: Gallitzin, PA
Engine: 572ci Gen II Hemi, 10.0:1 compression, 1050 Holley Dominator, 426 1050 dual-plane intake, 426 S/R aluminum cylinder heads, Mopar Performance Siamesed block, COMP hydraulic cam (248 duration @ .050, .620-inch lift)
Exhaust: custom long-tube headers, Magnaflow 3-inch exhaust
Transmission: A727 TorqueFlite 3-speed automatic

1974 Dodge Dart
637.6 HP <-Wedge motors can't make power N/A right? lol. All in the cylinder heads and camshaft. This is an extreme pump gas build.
Car Owner: Brian Schmidt
Hometown: Kewaskum, WI
Engine: 572ci RB-series big-block Wedge, 11.0:1 compression; BLP Dominator carb, Indy 440-3X intake, Indy 572-13 cylinder heads, Indy Maxx aluminum block, COMP solid cam (.824-inch lift, 289 degrees duration @ .050)
Exhaust: 2 1/8-inch Pro Parts long-tube headers, Dynomax Race Bullet mufflers
Transmission: Turbo 400 3-speed automatic

Then, you'll see something like this;
2010 Dodge Challenger R/T
334.6 HP <- factory GEN III Hemi that is making more power to the tire than modified wedges'.
Car owner: Charles R. Tyree
Hometown: Barberton, OH
Engine: stock 5.7L Hemi, K&N filter, Mobil 1 5W20
Exhaust: stock
Transmission: 5-speed automatic

or this..
2015 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat
667.7 HP <- bone stock with an auto. This is why everyone is going to the Hellcat driveline. Making 30+rwhp over the full-blown race 572 Indy wedge. Idles like stock. Gets 20 mpg. Doesn't overheat in traffic. No tuning. No maintenance. No drama. Crank it up and drive across the country without worrying.
Car owner: Anthony Fenice
Hometown: Columbus, OH
Engine: stock 6.2L supercharged SRT Hellcat Hemi
Exhaust: stock
Transmission: 8-speed automatic

 

[Average Joe]

Awesome power, and yes, tuning is critical; it’s fairly easy to tune for WOT as you run it fat and simply lean it out. A lot of guys now believe the ‘self tuning’ EFI is a miracle worker, already seen on engine destroyed when they relied on it rather than the dyno for the initial tune. It gets insane when you factor in all the variable loads that street driving puts on these systems, the dyno takes most of those variables out. It took me a year to get everything perfect on the street, 14.5:1 idle/cruise and a safe WOT AFR. Getting tip in perfect, changing out multiple sets of air bleeds, squirters, cams, and jets. I’m guessing you were running race fuel and meth injection as I don’t see an intercooler, must have been running 15+ psi I imagine. I’ll be happy to get 450 to the tire N/A on pump gas. Kinda sad really out of a stout 470ci engine! EFI is the way to go, I would have went that route if they were proven reliable as an OEM application. Carb is simplistic and trouble free for the most part, one less thing to go wrong while cruising on an older car. I’ll have to talk to my friend again and ask his opinion about the FiTech 1200 PA, he’s been using it for quite awhile.

Btw how much did 70 runs on the dyno cost you!? Sounds like more than my entire engine build. It’s $300+ locally to do a few pulls with minor tuning.

I did the 12 pulls with carb and had a piece of rubber stuck in the fuel pressure regulator. So we leaned the jetting to compensate ,the car did 750 that day.I took the car back to my shop and fixed the fuel system and went back and did the 840hp on pump gas.
I ran 14.9 pound of boost with the carb set up no intercooler,pump gas and water meth.The Injection system was tuned on pump gas as well but intercooled.
Yes 70 pulls cost a lot but not as much as the Hemi did.LOL. 30 of these pulls were at a shop that didn't know what they were doing.With all that I have learned with having my car on the dyno it has made it easier for me when I build for others.Expensive but worth it.
A good tuner and dyno shop is very hard to find. We have a few shops here in Colorado Springs with only one that I work with that understands american muscle cars with carbs or fuel injection. All the cars I build I put on the chassis dyno. I just built my friend a 496 rb
for his 69 charger we did 470 to the tire on pump gas.I pretty much have switched to fuel injection on everything I do now even if someone wants me to build and engine for them I push them to injection.
I just was helping someone that has a FITECH on his AMX.Its pretty simple system,good quality and fairly easy to change the settings and percentages with the hand held.I don't personally like there fuel system I prefer to do a return style system with external regulator and in tank pump.Less likely for heat soak on a 95 degree day. I have FAST on my charger. Expensive but a good system. I have been doing holley systems
the last two injection systems I purchased through Rich at FastmanEfi. (Injection Guru).I have been really pleased with there systems.

 

[Average Joe]

Don't worry about upsetting anybody, my thread my rules lol. I'll listen to all input but in the end I'll make up my own mind and my mind is saying BOOST IT! Unfortunately after seeing the total cost I'm not doing it soon unless I come across a deal.

Problem is I don't know enough yet but thanks to Goon I'm getting a better idea. Really knowing where I'm at will help tremendously as far as setting a goal so maybe a dyno this spring and go from there.

I think the setup goon has would be a good set up for a low deck 400. I believe the strongest block Chrysler ever made. The Psi of the D1X fits perfect with the size of engine you have. Seeing your work I think this would be a perfect way for you to add boost on a budget.(When you have the budget set aside of course LOL) If you have any
questions you can email me. Goon has my email.I have done a lot trial and error with my Procharger.LOL
Thanks,Joe

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I did the 12 pulls with carb and had a piece of rubber stuck in the fuel pressure regulator. So we leaned the jetting to compensate ,the car did 750 that day.I took the car back to my shop and fixed the fuel system and went back and did the 840hp on pump gas.
I ran 14.9 pound of boost with the carb set up no intercooler,pump gas and water meth.The Injection system was tuned on pump gas as well but intercooled.
Yes 70 pulls cost a lot but not as much as the Hemi did.LOL. 30 of these pulls were at a shop that didn't know what they were doing.With all that I have learned with having my car on the dyno it has made it easier for me when I build for others.Expensive but worth it.
A good tuner and dyno shop is very hard to find. We have a few shops here in Colorado Springs with only one that I work with that understands american muscle cars with carbs or fuel injection. All the cars I build I put on the chassis dyno. I just built my friend a 496 rb
for his 69 charger we did 470 to the tire on pump gas.I pretty much have switched to fuel injection on everything I do now even if someone wants me to build and engine for them I push them to injection.
I just was helping someone that has a FITECH on his AMX.Its pretty simple system,good quality and fairly easy to change the settings and percentages with the hand held.I don't personally like there fuel system I prefer to do a return style system with external regulator and in tank pump.Less likely for heat soak on a 95 degree day. I have FAST on my charger. Expensive but a good system. I have been doing holley systems
the last two injection systems I purchased through Rich at FastmanEfi. (Injection Guru).I have been really pleased with there systems.

Nearly identical setup as when I started but only @ 8psi, non-intercooled, pump gas with a stage II meth-injection kit from Snow (10:1 with cast pistons). After the first build, could have done it much better this time around. You learn quite a lot, very quickly.

30-pulls and no results, wow, absolutely unbelievable. Once I break this engine in, I'll be heading to the dyno (similar situation, only one shop within 100-miles that specializes in classic cars). My Wideband gauge died unexpectedly last week, tuning has been solely based upon plug reading and driveability.

Return style systems are the only way to go anymore. Expensive initially to plumb, something like a -10 AN return on a 17' car, but worth it. I went with twin Walbro's, fairly capable on a carburetor application as far as power limitations go (only run a single currently). Wanted a system that was redundant, enough to get me home if one were to fail. I've been happy with Carbs, it's an older car so the drawbacks don't bother me (as much as they do some).

I'm not a fan of FiTech much myself, anyone who has been apart of their FB group will understand why. It's not a bolt-on-and-go, completely 'self tuning' system, which many are deceived into believing. If I was going to make a move to EFI, it would be with a GEN III Hemi (OEM).

My friend Randy just ran a 9.8 @ 137 with a near identical 451 build that I had (13# boost on pump 93 + meth injection) using the FiTech 1200 PA (so yes, it is still working well for him). Only took around 3-years (and 3-engine rebuilds) to get the combination sorted out! 1/8th was only at 6.3, he has ran 6.1's on C16. So, yes, you can make power, but no, it won't be inexpensive maintaining that much power in an older car. You can get really greedy however wanting more power with a forced inducted car (changing a pulley or adjusting boost controller), so it's better to build it (the entire driveline) stout off the start.

 

[Average Joe]

Nearly identical setup as when I started but only @ 8psi, non-intercooled, pump gas with a stage II meth-injection kit from Snow (10:1 with cast pistons). After the first build, could have done it much better this time around. You learn quite a lot, very quickly.

30-pulls and no results, wow, absolutely unbelievable. Once I break this engine in, I'll be heading to the dyno (similar situation, only one shop within 100-miles that specializes in classic cars). My Wideband gauge died unexpectedly last week, tuning has been solely based upon plug reading and driveability.

Return style systems are the only way to go anymore. Expensive initially to plumb, something like a -10 AN return on a 17' car, but worth it. I went with twin Walbro's, fairly capable on a carburetor application as far as power limitations go (only run a single currently). Wanted a system that was redundant, enough to get me home if one were to fail. I've been happy with Carbs, it's an older car so the drawbacks don't bother me (as much as they do some).

I'm not a fan of FiTech much myself, anyone who has been apart of their FB group will understand why. It's not a bolt-on-and-go, completely 'self tuning' system, which many are deceived into believing. If I was going to make a move to EFI, it would be with a GEN III Hemi (OEM).

My friend Randy just ran a 9.8 @ 137 with a near identical 451 build that I had (13# boost on pump 93 + meth injection) using the FiTech 1200 PA (so yes, it is still working well for him). Only took around 3-years (and 3-engine rebuilds) to get the combination sorted out! 1/8th was only at 6.3, he has ran 6.1's on C16. So, yes, you can make power, but no, it won't be inexpensive maintaining that much power in an older car. You can get really greedy however wanting more power with a forced inducted car (changing a pulley or adjusting boost controller), so it's better to build it (the entire driveline) stout off the start.

It was unbelievable. I was so mad.There were some results I did a 900hp pull on his dyno. His dyno was about 200hp off.One of my fuel pumps was broken on that pull.I should taken it back after I got the fuel system and injection fixed on my friends dyno I might have done a 1000 hp pull LOL.But I learned a lot from it so now it is a little easier for me when I set things up.

 

[747mopar]

Nearly identical setup as when I started but only @ 8psi, non-intercooled, pump gas with a stage II meth-injection kit from Snow (10:1 with cast pistons). After the first build, could have done it much better this time around. You learn quite a lot, very quickly.

30-pulls and no results, wow, absolutely unbelievable. Once I break this engine in, I'll be heading to the dyno (similar situation, only one shop within 100-miles that specializes in classic cars). My Wideband gauge died unexpectedly last week, tuning has been solely based upon plug reading and driveability.

Return style systems are the only way to go anymore. Expensive initially to plumb, something like a -10 AN return on a 17' car, but worth it. I went with twin Walbro's, fairly capable on a carburetor application as far as power limitations go (only run a single currently). Wanted a system that was redundant, enough to get me home if one were to fail. I've been happy with Carbs, it's an older car so the drawbacks don't bother me (as much as they do some).

I'm not a fan of FiTech much myself, anyone who has been apart of their FB group will understand why. It's not a bolt-on-and-go, completely 'self tuning' system, which many are deceived into believing. If I was going to make a move to EFI, it would be with a GEN III Hemi (OEM).

My friend Randy just ran a 9.8 @ 137 with a near identical 451 build that I had (13# boost on pump 93 + meth injection) using the FiTech 1200 PA (so yes, it is still working well for him). Only took around 3-years (and 3-engine rebuilds) to get the combination sorted out! 1/8th was only at 6.3, he has ran 6.1's on C16. So, yes, you can make power, but no, it won't be inexpensive maintaining that much power in an older car. You can get really greedy however wanting more power with a forced inducted car (changing a pulley or adjusting boost controller), so it's better to build it (the entire driveline) stout off the start.

No worries on the fuel system. I've had my fill of this crap gas and have got the car ALMOST 100% trouble free in that department. I've come to the conclusion the only thing left to do to make it 100% is install a return style regulator and a return line so fuel never sits idle. The fuel delivery will be done right likely well ahead of the boost.... if I go threw with it.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

No worries on the fuel system. I've had my fill of this crap gas and have got the car ALMOST 100% trouble free in that department. I've come to the conclusion the only thing left to do to make it 100% is install a return style regulator and a return line so fuel never sits idle. The fuel delivery will be done right likely well ahead of the boost.... if I go threw with it.

Start with the little things. Return-style fuel system with a boost-referenced Aeromotive regulator (I utilize Aeroquip socketless hose). MSD 6AL-2 ignition system. Heavy duty aluminum driveshaft. U-joints and yokes. Rear axles. All the minor items that will break under increased stress and leave you stranded. You may already have these, but it's just a start. Good luck, any way you go.

 

[HYRDGOON]

Sweet5ltr that video of the F2 Procharged Coronet was taken in 2012. Car has been on the road ever since and drives 3 hours round trip a few times a year to an old airstrip for armdrop drag races.

You should have a look at Dev's build thread for his car. there's 104 pages so I doubt you want to sit there and read through them but gives you a good idea of his familiarity to tackle a project.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/restomod-charger-pics.43619/


Here's a Baddass 70 in the works on the East Coast in Canada:

Pump-gas stroker small block (440 c.i.) with no intercooler (water injection), 943 hp/867 pound-feet at 17-18 psi

 

[HYRDGOON]

Joe I ended up selling the fuel system I got from you about 2 months ago. I have my eye on the Sniper 8 inj EFI. Would rather do port injection but the cost difference there is enough to make me think twice. I'll see where the chips fall when it comes time,

I'll tell you what I'm not going to do and that's rush out and buy anything before it's time to use it. I've been left behind too many times with latest and greatest stuff coming out lol