rumblefish360
Well-Known Member
Do you have a 4bbl. intake?
The Sputtering Thermoquad
- Thread starter aceofspades
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aceofspades
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Yeah it's all stock out of the 300 except for cam/lifters/headers.
pentahead
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twinkle twinkle little star.......I think I just pissed myself
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What's different with the metering? Rods/jets? I don't have my 71 Cuda anymore so can't check to see if it had a 71 carb but man, the car sure ran good with it.
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Here's some info from Demon Sizzler's post from FABO back in 07. Don't think his site is active anymore.....
Don't confuse AFB'S, AVS'S and Holley carbs VS the ThermoQuad in cfm rating. This is like comparing Mopar muscle to an MG Midget!
800 cfm T.Q.'s were used on smogger late 70's-'84 318 engines with single exhaust. You can even bolt onto a bone stock 318, an 800 cfm 340 carb and with no mods/re-jetting, outperform the origional 2bbl.
All '71(one year only design based on the origional non oem Competirion Series 850 and 1,000 cfm T.Q.)and '72-'73 340, the '74 360 carbs and '73-'74 big block carbs{'74-'77 440 truck carbs}are the best models since these are not emissions-calibrated lean.
'75-'84 800 and 850 cfm T.Q.'s have 'lean' circuits that in many cases, cannot be re-calibrated even with re-jetting. These require re-worked circuitry on non-smogger applications but will perform as well as the early models.
Don't confuse AFB'S, AVS'S and Holley carbs VS the ThermoQuad in cfm rating. This is like comparing Mopar muscle to an MG Midget!
800 cfm T.Q.'s were used on smogger late 70's-'84 318 engines with single exhaust. You can even bolt onto a bone stock 318, an 800 cfm 340 carb and with no mods/re-jetting, outperform the origional 2bbl.
All '71(one year only design based on the origional non oem Competirion Series 850 and 1,000 cfm T.Q.)and '72-'73 340, the '74 360 carbs and '73-'74 big block carbs{'74-'77 440 truck carbs}are the best models since these are not emissions-calibrated lean.
'75-'84 800 and 850 cfm T.Q.'s have 'lean' circuits that in many cases, cannot be re-calibrated even with re-jetting. These require re-worked circuitry on non-smogger applications but will perform as well as the early models.
moper
Well-Known Member
Tighten the air door one full turn. Tighten the screw on the metering rod hanger 2-3 full turns clockwise. Move the accelerator pump arm to the hole closest to the pivot of the arm.
mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
Wont that decress the spray on the accelerator pump?
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