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Fuel gauge problem

383MovingViolation

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1966 Satellite. The fuel tank is completely full but the gauge reads completely empty. All connections are good, ground wire is good. Anyone have any ideas as to what to check now? How can I determine if it's the gauge itself or the sending unit in the tank?

Thanks
 
remove wire from sender, ground that wire, turn on key, watch gauge

if gauge rises, sender is bad

if gauge does not rise, either gauge is bad, voltage limiter is bad, or wiring is bad in dash area
 
do as mentioned above.

also, look at float on sending unit if you yank it. sometimes they lose a dab of solder and get filled.

i've been workin on getting reliable fuel levels for my 66 Coronet for a while now.


watermelon
 
remove wire from sender, ground that wire, turn on key, watch gauge

if gauge rises, sender is bad

if gauge does not rise, either gauge is bad, voltage limiter is bad, or wiring is bad in dash area

!966 Charger.

I'm looking into getting my fuel and temp. guages working.

Not looking forward to pulling the consul out, so I'd like to try the easier stuff first.

Can you tell me where the voltage limiter is located?

and

Does the temp and fuel gauges operation have anything to do with one another?

Thanx,

Ragman
 
CHECK VOLTAGE LIMITER FIRST.....heres how
1 get a test light WITHOUT a battery in it.
2 ground the test light on the battery in the car
3 with the key ON.. put the pointy part of the test light on the TEMP SENDING UNIT. where the wire goes to it. (leave the wire on the sending unit.)
4 if the test light pulsates...then the voltage limiter is OK
5 IF THE TEST LIGHT DOES NOT PULSATE THE VOLTAGE LIMITER IS BAD.
 
There are also some new solid state type voltage limiters being sold, even some cheap one's on e-bay. I grabbed one of them, and it's been working great.

Sounds like you do have electrical problems, most likely the limiter or possible a break in the circuit board on the back. That can be repaired if you're handy. Just grab some thin copper plating, normally sold at hobby shops, and trim it with scissors and solder it over the break in the circuit.

And like stated above, if you've done all the electrical checks, make SURE you have a good float on your sending unit. I just went thru all that, just to find I had a float that had filled with gas. I emptied it out, soldered it shut again, and it's working great now.

You CAN remove the sending unit on the gas tank without dropping the tank on the '68s, you may be able to do it on your 66 as well. I'd check it out before you drop the tank. Just be ready for gas leakage cause anything over about 3/8ths a tank is gonna come pouring out of there when you start removing the sending unit.
 
Great information!

Just got the car back from the painter. I will tackle this as soon as I get all the trim back on.

I'll report back with results and pics.

Thanks a lot!

Ragman

P.S. Where is the voltage liniter located?
 
Last edited:
Great information!

Just got the car back from the painter. I will tackle this as soon as I get all the trim back on.

I'll report back with results and pics.

Thanks a lot!

Ragman

P.S. Where is the voltage liniter located?


Its a plugin on the back of the gauge cluster. Roughly 2" long metal looking thing with three pronges that goes into the circuit board. Just look for something matching that description where the copper paths converge.
 
I was hoping it is mounted the firewall in the engine compartment. I'm not looking forward to pulling the console. But will if necessary.

The only guages that are not working are the temp and fuel guages.

Is it necessary to pull the guage console?

Does the limiter only affect the fuel guage?

Thanx for the help.

Ragman
 
Jeff,
Great info! I'll print and save.
Actually it's the fuel and temp. guages that are not working, but I know I'll probably need this info. in the future.
Thank you again.
Ragman.
 
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