73 roadrunner purchase this weekend help me out guys.

[adk-roadrunner]

Hey guys im going to look at a 73 roadrunner this weekend to hopefully purchase but want to get your opinions. It is a #s matching 318 slapstick auto with 102,000 miles on it. the owner states that it was redone about 15 years ago and looks runs and drives great. He is asking $9,500 for this car im gonna try to post some pics so you can have a look and let me know what you think. If you could also maybe let me know of any common problm areas i should look for with this car. thankyou

 

[jessipup]

That seems a tad high. It would have to be absoutly mint and or have a bigger #match motor possably a 4 speed. Be sure to check the fender tag and find the RM. RM = runner,
RL, RH, RP sat versions
RK police
RT taxi
many of these can be cloned to a runner and you may never know until you go to show or sell.
Better Idea print out fender tag decoding pages and put them on your clip board, Dont forget your lab coat, see joke section

 

[adk-roadrunner]

Thanks I have a pic of the fender tag and I decoded it and it all checks out it is a roadrunner. Thanks for the input so what do you think its worth they tend to run a little high up here in the north east. The guy has had it for 20 years so I'm sure there is an emotional attatchment as well. Obviously indont plan on paying the asking price just not sure how high I should gol

 

[YY1]

9.5K for a 318 car is a bit high. Better have REALLY clean quarters.

Check 'em real good with your fingers and a magnet.
Don't forget the door jambs

Check the door hinge area where the cowl overlaps.
Take out the vent screen on the cowl, put your arm in and feel the vent tower.
Parts are available for those areas but repairs are extremely labor intensive.

My 54,000 mile Satellite has had the quarter to rocker seams fixed.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

So what is the magic number then what are they really worth I would like some kind of idea of what I should pay I tried nada and it shows the very low book with the base engine at a little over 12k. I figured 9 was a little high but not horrible since the rust buckets out there are going for 4 or 5 and are not driveable but its kinda new to me. The interior is supposedly all original as well and he said the only fault is a 1 inch crack in the dash which was surprising to me as it looks really good in the pic.so this vent you said to look in is it right by the door hinges. Thanks

 

[CtownChris]

Vent is just below windshield and near back of the hood line. Between firewall and windshield. Plastic screen that pops out.
Check out some motor/engine pay pics of 71-74 B bodies and U will see what we mean.

 

[bigredbird]

This article from Hemmings might help you - all the way at the bottom is a "what to pay" list, but read all the other stuff first. :read2:

http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2011/02/01/hmn_buyers_guide1.html

 

[Ron 73]

Sure is a great looker, good luck with it
Thats a good article in hemmings, cool looking cover page car

 

[YY1]

...and look at the frame where the isolated K frame bolts to it, especially around the rear bolt on the driver side.

bigredbird- thanks for the link to that Hemmings article, I've been looking for that issue!

I've been using this price guide.

Some obvious errors, but more detailed that KBB/NADA and less replacement cost biased than Edmonds/Haggerty-

http://collectorcarmarket.com/menus/pl73d.html

However, if you read the descriptions on Haggerty/Edmonds, you'll see that "the industry" rating of #2 is WAY above what most street guys would call a #2 car, and that most cars that aren't sold/bought professionally are #3 at best.

This chart does have yor 9K figure in between #3 and #4, but that's for a 400 car, and they don't even list a 318 as an option (one of those errors).


1973 PLYMOUTH ROAD RUNNER 400-225hp (8cyl-4V) AT
#5 #4 #3 #2 #1
2dr Hardtop 3675 8625 14950 20175 33450

Add:
440-280hp (8cyl-4V) 30%
4spd manual trans 5%
Power windows 3%
Sunroof-sliding 15%
Deduct:
340-235hp (8cyl-4V) -5%
3spd manual transmission -10%
No air conditioning -10%
Manual steering -5%
Bench seat -5%
Column shift -5%

 

[adk-roadrunner]

That was a very informative article thank you very much and it looks like if its in good shape and I can talk him down a bit it might not be a bad buy. Gives me a lot to think about thanks for the help everyone keep it coming.though I didn't read that the prices were for a 440 and a six pack it says a 440 with six pack will command considerably more. Its so hard to price these things

 

[adk-roadrunner]

I think I miss understood you were talking about you other price guide I think

 

[Bruzilla]

I'll go with the crowd and say $9k is too high for a 318 car. The market is declining and there are a lot of 73/74 cars for sale right now. Never trust KBB or NADA as both are written by auto dealers to support auto dealers, so they are not exactly honest brokers of information. That was the first lesson I learned when I worked at a Ford dealership.

I would price that car at around $6,000. I would go higher for a 440 or 340 car, but 318s no way.

 

[adk-roadrunner]

now what lol a little competition

So about 2 weeks ago I emailed this other guy with this 73 charger but got no answer untill last night. car was painted 3 years ago not sure about mileage yet looks to be in decent shape. They are asking 9k negotiable for this car which has the original 400 big block but is column shift and as you can see in the pics they have changed the interiorto modern seats. now im really not sure what to do i love roadrunners and kinds dislike the decal on the hood of the charger but that big block is looking good lol.:eusa_think: oh also they said price negotiable on charger because the brakes are suposedly bad. thankyou

 

[adk-roadrunner]

i wish I could find a 440 or 340 car for under 20,000 that would be nice.

 

[YY1]

I like the RR over the Charger due to being more original.

The Charger has had it's SE roof removed.
An M code 400 2 barrel isn't worth much more than a 318 resale wise, but defiantely would be a more powerful motor if built. If it's a P code 4 barrel, you get a good value bump.

Around here values have kind leveled off, and the bargains and steals have kind of dried up. There for a while I wept nightly because I saw so many good deals sit for so long (three to four a week solid cars for under $2500, even under $1000, and killer parts cars for $500), and some go to scrap. Now that I have a place to put them, I barely see one every two weeks, and some only last a day and then get relisted for double.

 

[marlabuck]

This article from Hemmings might help you - all the way at the bottom is a "what to pay" list, but read all the other stuff first. :read2:

http://www.hemmings.com/hmn/stories/2011/02/01/hmn_buyers_guide1.html

Thank you for this link...really helpful...Marla

 

[adk-roadrunner]

ya the interior in the charger would have to be brought back to original I think I would be embarased to drive it with those seats lol but im sure I could find some originals. but not having the slap stick is a real let down column shift just doesnt seem right.

 

[bigredbird]

now im really not sure what to do i love roadrunners and kinds dislike the decal on the hood of the charger

Don't let the decal stop you. A can of this stuff will make it disappear without a trace: http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd-aircraft_decal.cfm

 

[MAGNUM GT XS22L9R]

Is it just me?


Is it just me or does the drivers side rear quarter look off?! :eusa_think:

Maybe is the way the shadows are hitting it?

 

[pabster]

Yeah, the RR quarter panel looks off to me too. Bru's suggestion of $6K sounds more like it.

I personally would stay away from the Charger- anyone who puts in god awful modern seats to replace the coolest seats ever is not right in the head. Who knows what other stupid things they've done to it. I paid 10K for my Charger, which is a complete survivor, been garaged its whole life, excellent condition. Everything stock, 90K miles. I didn't have to do anything to it except drive it! And the Nor Cal market is a bit higher than others.

Good luck finding your Mopar! This board is invaluable in helping you get it the way you want it!