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Help please, are these pistons mounted correct?

Coronet1965SWE

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Hello, i was just updating my build thread and added some pictures and saw something strange.
At this photo i think it looks like the pistons are mounted 180 degrees wrong, or am i thinking backwards or something?
I have driven the car with it like this without problems but it looks strange.
I didnt mount the heads myself but my brothers did who are good mechanics but not used to engine assembly (im not either).


20120620_184706.jpg
 
definitely upside down. looks like they have a quench dome too, so check that out.
 
Great.... I had an experienced enginebuilder do the machinework and assembly of the shortblock with the intention to get it all correct.
One would assume that turning the pistons the right way should be a pretty basic thing to get right. Good thing i didnt put in a cam with a lot of lift anyway.
This guy has built Chrysler engines before also, isnt there instructions included with the pistons from 440source?

Thanks for the help.
 
if those pistons have a quench dome they won't work with closed chamber heads without milling.
 
The flat part of piston must be on the same side of the cylinder as the flat area of the head, away from the spark plug. Those are back wards. I saw the same problem with another motor. He was stating he had problems with poor performance and misfiring. Told him the pistons were in backwards. That was 64 Polara. Guess he got it fixed.
 
when the pistons are turned around correctly they will work with those open chamber heads.
 
I cannot believe there hasn't been a catastrophic failure. They are not just on backwards. They are jumbled from SIDES as well. The valve notches should go E, I, I, E, E, I, I, E but they do not. They go E, I, E, I, I, E, I, E. They are all jumbled up. You need to make SURE that not only are they on going the right direction, but also on the correct sides as well.
 
I cannot believe there hasn't been a catastrophic failure. They are not just on backwards. They are jumbled from SIDES as well. The valve notches should go E, I, I, E, E, I, I, E but they do not. They go E, I, E, I, I, E, I, E. They are all jumbled up. You need to make SURE that not only are they on going the right direction, but also on the correct sides as well.

Good eye Rusty! I'm not sure I would trust tha same guy to fix it.
 
looking at the pistons again they may not be quench domes. the valve reliefs overlapping past the d-cup may give an illusion of a quench dome, pictures not sharp enough me. anyhow, turn them around and they'll run. with the pistons in upside down the valve reliefs will look backwards. i'm getting too old for this,...adios.
 
Thats a flat top dish.

I would also check and make sure the rod is in the piston correctly to go on the crank correctly, the radius side of the rod is facing the right way, or if you see the notch for the rod bearing lock is at the block out side
 
Well, if all they do is just turn them from where they are now, he'll get I, E, I, E, E, I, E, I and that's not right either. They are gonna have to swap some pistons side to side and you better make SURE they do what Supershafts says and be dang sure the rods are facing the right way. Also, if they are not and that engine has run long, it may have damaged the rods and crank. That thing needs to be completely torn down and inspected VERY closely.

looking at the pistons again they may not be quench domes. the valve reliefs overlapping past the d-cup may give an illusion of a quench dome, pictures not sharp enough me. anyhow, turn them around and they'll run. with the pistons in upside down the valve reliefs will look backwards. i'm getting too old for this,...adios.

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Damn skippy my shaft makin friend.

Thats a flat top dish.

I would also check and make sure the rod is in the piston correctly to go on the crank correctly, the radius side of the rod is facing the right way, or if you see the notch for the rod bearing lock is at the block out side
 
Yea that can be a tricky assembly, unless the assembler knows exactly what he is doing. I start with the pistons in their correct position in the cylinder, then assemble the rod to it in the correct direction. After assembly, viewed from the top, the valve relief notches should be in the order of E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E . The intake valve relief is larger than the exhaust. Then on the bottom end, with the crankshaft throw at the center of the pan rails, both cylinder numbers should be visible stamped on the connecting rod. And as Supershafts said, the bearing locator tangs will be towards the pan rail, or outside of the block, on that cylinder. Its really fairly simple once you understand the correct positions.
 
simple

as i said look at the bearing tang, it maybe as simple as shown in the pic with arrows to indicate where to go IF rod are on pistons correctly...if your engine guy doesn't understand what has happened quickly...grab motor and RUN!!!attachment.jpg
 
Thanks for all the help and input guys.

I talked to the enginebuilder today and he will fix it, but the problem is he just moved his shop and has no room to take in a car to remove the engine now, of course..

He blamed the error on stress and personal problems and such and i can see that, its just really irritating when it means so much extra work.

So anyway, here is a picture on the engine from the bottom. Perhaps you can tell if it looks right or wrong?
20120619_102511.jpg

Thanks.
 
Ok, ill have to wait and see regarding the connection rods.

This is the only pic i have of the driverside but the angle is no good unfortunately.

20120620_184735.jpg
 
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