Help please, are these pistons mounted correct?

[D575]

I think I would double check everything he did. I wouldn't let him touch it.

He needs to make it right, if he has a legitimate business. Bureau of automotive repair, BBB. Small claims.

Your time is worth something too.

 

[MikeStahl]

pic does show at least for #1 hole that he did the same screw up, you could fix it yourself with a torque wrench and a ring compressor. reason I suggest this is that doesn't take a lot of room or time if that's all that it needs

 

[Garys1969RR]

You can fix that yourself, especially if you have full floating wrist pins. You will need snap ring pliers or a couple small screw drivers. And a ring compressor and torque wrench. Pull the oil pan with the motor on a stand. Pull a rod cap and send us a pic of the rod end against the crankshaft. We will let you know if the direction is correct.

 

[Supershafts]

Thanks for all the help and input guys.

I talked to the enginebuilder today and he will fix it, but the problem is he just moved his shop and has no room to take in a car to remove the engine now, of course..

He blamed the error on stress and personal problems and such and i can see that, its just really irritating when it means so much extra work.

So anyway, here is a picture on the engine from the bottom. Perhaps you can tell if it looks right or wrong?
View attachment 108884

Thanks.

I can't tell from the pic if those rods are on right or wrong, but the excuse of stresss....... I know what real stress is and i have never done something like that... Stress would make you forget to order parts for a job on time, or forget to call a customer back at a determined time... but.. putting all 8 in the wrong hole and the wrong side . . . . Im thinking he either doesn't give a F, or he has a drug problem . . .
When you get done you stand back and look at it and then go WTFF did i do and quickly fix it...

As for doing it yourself, while that may be a good idea especially seeing this catastrophe averted, i would caution depending what rings you have on them , and more importantly im referring to the oil rings, i would stress to be very very careful as i have seen the oil rings screw up installing pistons into the bore and for the novice or the first time person you can very easily not feel it and send the piston down and need new oil rings at the least...

.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

I decided to do the job myself and let the guy pay for gaskets and give me some cash for the trouble.
Here it is, ready to be disassembled.



Is it normal that the exhaust manifold is so close to the valvecover? only about 1-2 mm apart.




Can the ARP bolts for the cylinderheads be reused? I sure hope so considering the price.
Thats it for now, ill be back later with more questions

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yes and yes.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Thanks

 

[RustyRatRod]

You bet. Good luck. I know you can do it. It's not that difficult.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

So i took the engine apart and at least the cylinder one connection rod seems to be installed the right way i think. I would appreciate some input



There seems to be some uneven wear in the cylinder, some sections are shinier and the crosshatch pattern is barely visible. Not sure if this is normal.
I took a picture but it is hard to see it clearly.



Im off to buy a piston ring compressor, have a nice weekend.

 

[MikeStahl]

that one is correct....and if this is the pattern then you'll have to pull the pistons off the rods and rotate them....was this motor a fresh bore and hone? and how long did it run

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Thanks Mike, yes this was a fresh bore and hone wich has run one summer with not so much activity.

 

[Garys1969RR]

that one is correct....and if this is the pattern then you'll have to pull the pistons off the rods and rotate them....was this motor a fresh bore and hone? and how long did it run

From your first picture of the top of pistons 2-4-6-8, it appears that 2 and 8 piston are in correctly. But you will need to check the rod position on those 2 cylinders. 4 and 6 need to be reversed. Just remember to put the smaller ex valve relief on top of the piston to line up to the cyl head ex valve position. And of course check the bearing tangs as out lined earlier.

- - - Updated - - -

OOPS , pistons 2 and 8 need to go to the other bank too, I would just remove them all and reassemble each one correctly.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah just because the rods are in correctly, doesn't mean the pistons are on correctly. I'm like Gary, I don't number one was facing the right way. The rod appears to be but not the piston. Don't mess around with it. Disassemble them ALL to check for irregular wear. It's not run long enough for anything to find home yet anyway.

 

[cdr]

IT will need new rings & bearings & re honed with a ball hone!!!!!!!!!

 

[Garys1969RR]

IT will need new rings & bearings & re honed with a ball hone!!!!!!!!!

Yea I was wondering about that too. The rings have mated to the cylinder they have been running in. So to get a really good seal, it needs to be re-honed at the very least, and new rings if the budget allows. We built a bucks down 383, with used pistons and rings. Just re honed the cylinders. That thing sealed good, and that 383 pulls like a 440! Lotsa power. You would be surprised at what some guys get away with.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

So, do i have to re-hone the cylinders? It seems like a lot of work to do it, or can it be done with the crank in place?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yes, but only with a ball hone, not a rock hone. You're only looking to put fresh cross hatch in the cylinders. Nothing else.

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

Ok, is that something that can be done with the crank still in the engine?

 

[Coronet1965SWE]

I guess yes if i put it upside down and put something to stop dirt getting into the crank area?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I would tear it completely down, send it all back to the machine shop and make sure nothing is out of spec or out of round.