Fuel Gauge INOP STILL!!!!! Even after new sending unit and fuel tank.

[Rustymopar]

Well..I tried ground the voltage limiter body and it did nothing. I tightened the 2 nuts behind the fuel gauge again it jumped up to a quarter tank but when I took the socket off of the nut it dropped it E again. I think this was the problem before I touched the 1/4 drive ratchet to something and shorted out the board. Now the gauge doesn't move at all, even if I jump it. Back to the starting blocks.
I guess I should check fuses first, but I saw the green covered circuitry curled up and peeled off some of the back of the board. Maybe this weekend I will pull the gauge cluster out and replace it with the one from the parts car.
Uggghhhhhh!!!!

 

[BeastlyBirdie]

How good is the wire itself? I would run a new temporary wire up to the gauge from the tank...like outside the car...but sounds like you fried something else at this point.

 

[Rustymopar]

How good is the wire itself? I would run a new temporary wire up to the gauge from the tank...like outside the car...but sounds like you fried something else at this point.

Yes.. I did... My brain and my nerves.. I shouldve tried that yesterday.

 

[Rustymopar]

Installed the other circuit board from the parts car and nothing. I wonder if the voltage limiter fried when I shorted the board?

 

[bm02tj]

How about you get out your multi meter and test things

 

[Rustymopar]

I just oredered a new one.. My meter was shot and quite honestly I'm not much more than a novice at auto electric.

 

[HT413]

:happy1:This is a project I plan on tackling this winter so I'm all eyes. :icon_eek:

You can do it!

 

[Rustymopar]

I ordered a new circuit board and voltage limiter last night. I figure while I'm waiting for it, I might as well polish the gauge plastic lens. I also ordered a new speedo cable since my speedo jumps around like a frog.

 

[Rustymopar]

As you recall, I fried the circuit board. I replaced the circuit board today, ran a new wire from the sending unit to the bundle plug.
MwaaaLaaaaa I have a fuel gauge that seems to work which read 1/2 tank with 5 gallons in the tank and the rear of the car up on jack stands,
While I had the gauge cluster out, I polished the discolored gauge lens. The new speedo cable arrived today. All I have to do now is install the rest of the padded dash, plug in all the switches, reinstall the sill plates, and the dash trim.

If I had to do it again, I think I would've changed the sending unit and ran a new wire to the bundle plug prior to any of the other stuff, however frying the circuit board from tightening up things with the battery connected, started the ripple effect.

Live and learn.. Thanks for the guidance fellas. Hopefully everything works after reconnected tomorrow,

.

 

[HT413]

Thanks for working through it with us. I have the same problem and I'll be going back to this thread before I tackle it. Thanks.

 

[440+6]

Me too, my temp and fuel work but read low and I have been ignoring it for years, time to pony up.
I'm glad you got it sorted out RustyMopar, must feel good to have finally won that little war.

 

[Rustymopar]

I still could kick my self in the rear.... I forgot to install the new speedo cable!! HAHAHHAHAHA....
The only recommendation I can make is be very patient removing and replacing all of the little 3/8 cap type
nuts on your lower dash pad. They are a B to get to, so I'd give it a break then go back to them.

There is a remote possibility I might be able to do the speedo cable without going through the entire dash again.

 

[67 coronet]

I still could kick my self in the rear.... I forgot to install the new speedo cable!! HAHAHHAHAHA....
The only recommendation I can make is be very patient removing and replacing all of the little 3/8 cap type
nuts on your lower dash pad. They are a B to get to, so I'd give it a break then go back to them.

There is a remote possibility I might be able to do the speedo cable without going through the entire dash again.

i switched all mine to real nuts rather then those stupid speed nuts.much easyer to get a wrench on now.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

I still could kick my self in the rear.... I forgot to install the new speedo cable!! HAHAHHAHAHA....
The only recommendation I can make is be very patient removing and replacing all of the little 3/8 cap type
nuts on your lower dash pad. They are a B to get to, so I'd give it a break then go back to them.

There is a remote possibility I might be able to do the speedo cable without going through the entire dash again.

You can I replaced my speedo cable without taking anything apart, just need to have a feel for the click on the snap clip and make sure the square end on the cable lines up, will give you hand a good cramp but can be done. Reach up under there with the end of the cable in your hand and feel for the speedo socket and plug it in.

 

[cr8crshr]

Just for future reference, here is a couple of places to get the necessary parts to re-build one's dash...Nice to know..

http://www.mrheaterbox.com/

http://www.premiumdashdecals.com/

 

[Rustymopar]

It' seems my temp gauge is now inop and it worked prior to the new circuit board. If I recall correctly, there are only 2 nuts which go on the back of the
temp gauage correct? There are no wires which attach to the studs. I'm pretty sure the nuts ground to the circuitry to the wire bundle plug on the back of the circuit panel...

Help!!

 

[PUNKN8R]

Well Rusty Have you or are you sure the fuel gauge is operating correctly if it is are you receiving a 5v pulse to the temp gauge from the voltage limiter ? It still sounds like a grounding issue.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

It' seems my temp gauge is now inop and it worked prior to the new circuit board. If I recall correctly, there are only 2 nuts which go on the back of the
temp gauage correct? There are no wires which attach to the studs. I'm pretty sure the nuts ground to the circuitry to the wire bundle plug on the back of the circuit panel...

Help!!

Yes one of those nuts completes the ground side of the gauge the other is the pulse from the sensor did you take the wire connector at the sensor and ground it and see if the gauge moves? if not then a break between the sensor and gauge happened.

 

[Rustymopar]

Yes one of those nuts completes the ground side of the gauge the other is the pulse from the sensor did you take the wire connector at the sensor and ground it and see if the gauge moves? if not then a break between the sensor and gauge happened.

What are you calling the sensor? The voltage limiter?

- - - Updated - - -

Well Rusty Have you or are you sure the fuel gauge is operating correctly if it is are you receiving a 5v pulse to the temp gauge from the voltage limiter ? It still sounds like a grounding issue.

When I first started the car the temp gauge was to the far right past H.. SHort time later after restart it doesn't move. I did get a new voltmeter in the mail. Where should I check for 5v? I'm dreading tearing it all out again..

 

[wannadrag]

You sure the sender is good?I have 2 new ones here and they are both crap.The china one works a little better than the Mexico one that is supposed to be the better of the 2.What I did to test the sender is remove it and run a long jumper wire from the guage wire under the car to the sender,ground the sender to the car.Use long enough wires so you can sit in the car with the sender and watch the guage as you raise the float.Neither of mine read anything till you have the float midway between the 2 stops.