ECU CORRECT LOCATION on a 1969 Dodge Superbee

[Durandal25]

Team,

I just recent bought a new Mopar Performance dizzy with the ECU and wanted to get your valued and diverse opinions on where to mount the ECU. Anyone have any PICs on a good location for this? I'am sure the coolest place possible would be best, but there has to be a good factory pic out there somewhere........

Thanks,

 

[YY1]

You know they didn't come with one form the factory, right?

 

[Bee383]

I put mine on the passenger fender well just below the windshield washer bottle

 

[Budnicks]

68 RR mine a CEI MP Chrome box, is on the firewall, by the new 4pin 73 & latter Ballast resister & now also the 73 & latter Electronic Regulator locations that are the same areas, as the stock 1968 2 pin ballast & analog regulators

 

[kiwigtx]

Another view - '70 GTX - still not available factory fitted in this year either...however it looks tidy there.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

I have Pertronix ignition (no box) but I thought the usual location everyone throws them is like Bud and Kiwi on the firewall next to the ballast resistor.

 

[Durandal25]

Thanks team, as always you dudes have the goods......

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Another view - '70 GTX - still not available factory fitted in this year either...however it looks tidy there.

Kiwi,

I went with a Mopar 3690427 Distributor Electronic system from Summit to replace my 2875731 dizzy, which I'm keeping, but would you recommend any other parts to tune this in?

 

[kiwigtx]

The only thing apart from my Rev-n-nator that I upgraded to is a new distributor - my 4th in 10 years....just hard to get good stuff these days.... I use the Accel model 59300 from Summit - also sold in Jegs and other places. My coil is the MSD Blaster Anti-Vibration model due to it being mounted horizontally.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-59300

As long as your ignition and electrical looms are good, you shouldn't have many problems. Just be sure to set that reluctor gap as close to 0.008" as you can, and have timing set to suit your engine.....not what someone else tells you is a figure to use.

 

[Durandal25]

Kiwi,

Much like your location, I beleive I can fit mine in there as well, but the only concern I have is cutting into the wall and also that the heater core is pretty close there. I was thinking of using a high-temp silicone and making a tack-down solution to bond the unit with some gap beteen it and hte firewall......keeping in mind that I then need to ensure that it's grounded......

 

[Budnicks]

just use short screws & use a proper sized drill bit with tape wrapped around for a stop, so you don't go to far, or hit the heater core, with about 1/2 exposed, I personally wouldn't suggest the glue on method, but that's just me, & yes it needs to be well grounded or it won't work

 

[Durandal25]

just use short screws & use a proper sized drill bit with tape wrapped around for a stop, so you don't go to far, or hit the heater core, with about 1/2 exposed, I personally wouldn't suggest the glue on method, but that's just me, & yes it needs to be well grounded or it won't work

Budnick,

Awsome detail sir! I just hate to put holes in a cherry firewall, that has none, but after all the issues I've had with single point dizzys, I am rethinking that......

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.....on a side note, I do have various coils I can use, but would prefer the NOS one I got recently. Would old-school work well here?

 

[ga66mopar]

Put mine under the battery box. I bolted it to the bottom of the battery box. Wanted to keep the firewall clean.

 

[Moparsmitty]

With that nice of a firewall I would be tempted to hide the ECU somewhere or go to a Pertronix and leave the firewall clean. JMHO.

 

[kiwigtx]

Budnick,

Awsome detail sir! I just hate to put holes in a cherry firewall, that has none, but after all the issues I've had with single point dizzys, I am rethinking that......

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.....on a side note, I do have various coils I can use, but would prefer the NOS one I got recently. Would old-school work well here?

I also wanted to keep my car looking unmolested...however, there comes a point of practicality and the sheer fact that most cars have been converted or altered in some way. If you do the job, just make it look neat and tidy - and no-one will fault you for it. It's your car, and you can do as you please - many cars were converted to electronic in the early days, and I don't know if many people will begrudge you for doing the same now. I used to have mine hidden on top of the heater box, but it became difficult to remove the brackets, and it just got to the point where I had decided....that unit is on display now.

That position under the resistor works out bang-on for the length of cable going to the distributor....it's easy to lose the extra 4-6 inches in the wiring loom. Taking it from the battery box or similar usually means a cut and join - not ideal unless you are competent at doing that. Also adds a small element of voltage drop etc....and believe me, you don't want to go there.

Hope that helps

 

[Durandal25]

With that nice of a firewall I would be tempted to hide the ECU somewhere or go to a Pertronix and leave the firewall clean. JMHO.

Thanks Moparsmitty, I'll figure it out in a high-speed, low-drag way. I'm going to try a few gounding tests and see if I can cobble a nice sub-mounting plate to add to the existing wall, without cutting or drilling. I'll post it when I'm done.........and let you guys be the judge.

 

[kiwigtx]

Thanks Moparsmitty, I'll figure it out in a high-speed, low-drag way. I'm going to try a few gounding tests and see if I can cobble a nice sub-mounting plate to add to the existing wall, without cutting or drilling. I'll post it when I'm done.........and let you guys be the judge.

I tried that also - made a bracket which was fixed under the bolts of the Voltage Regulator bracket - however, I wasn't happy about the vibration from the bracket as it was effectively floating above the firewall. It also meant the ECU plug was difficult to reach.

My Rev-n-nator unit is mounted directly on the firewall - I used 'rivnuts' as anchors, as opposed to using the correct shape self-tapping screws (as they can work loose and once that happens your're pretty much screwed). If you need some more pics, I can update this later when Photobucket is back online.

 

[Durandal25]

Kiwi,

Please send the PICs when you can, as you clearly have been down this road. I have a continuity testor that has validated several gounding possabilities and I want all the tips I can muster before my son and I tune'er up this weekend. Also I am thinking of using a NOS coil I got recently to polish off the old-school look. What are your thoughts on that?

COIL: MOPAR PART# 2495531

 

[MarPar]

my car came with the "orange box" already installed on the firewall and i actually like the job they did. and im one of those "****" MoPar guys. lol

 

[Durandal25]

my car came with the "orange box" already installed on the firewall and i actually like the job they did. and im one of those "****" MoPar guys. lol

View attachment 135526

......it is awsome sir, and the Duke was a MOPAR dude.

 

[kiwigtx]

Kiwi,

Please send the PICs when you can, as you clearly have been down this road. I have a continuity testor that has validated several gounding possabilities and I want all the tips I can muster before my son and I tune'er up this weekend. Also I am thinking of using a NOS coil I got recently to polish off the old-school look. What are your thoughts on that?

COIL: MOPAR PART# 2495531

This is where I started out a few years ago by using a hole behind the Voltage Regulator that a previous owner had made. My MoPar boxes were stuck to the top of the heater box using Velcro adhesive squares. Hides the wiring nicely, but a PITA when problems need to be solved.

Fastforward to March this year, and i installed my Rev-n-nator. Tried to run in stealth mode to avoid the extra holes in the firewall....

trouble is, that I felt that the bracket I had constructed might have been vibrating on the firewall - grounding was fine, I just wanted it firm on the steelwork. So I eventually did this a few weeks ago...

rewired with a new Mopar ECU loom...

and I am happy with that. It actually looks like it was meant to be there. Hope that helps somewhat.