318 la horsepower

[Dcreole!]

:blob1: WE HAVE GRANNY'S 1972 DODGE CORONET 318 2BL. 29K MILES... LOOKING FOR A FEW SIMPLE BOLT-ON HORSE POWER.
THINKING: A WEIAND 8007 INTAKE MANIFORD (DUAL PLANE), EDELBROCK 600 (1406) & HEDDMAN (78500 SHORT/TIGHT TUBE HEADERS) WANT TO LOWER THE CAR....
ANY OTHER SUGGESTION ?
ABOUT HOW MUCH MORE HORSE POWER WILL THIS GIVE ME ?
NOT TRYING TO PULL THE ENGINE FOR A CAM SET-UP.. .....THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

 

[apostle228]

A cam change isnt hard and wouldnt involve pulling the motor... If you didnt want to pull the motor, you can go in through the front, you'd have to remove the grill, radiator, fan, etc, and can go in through the front of the car that way for the swap...

Just an intake manifold and headers isnt going to do much for power really... Barely noticeable if at all from behind the wheel... IMO. For a good power bump, it isnt hard to do a cam, intake manifold, carburetor, and headers. you'd need to get new lifters as well, and a nice timing chain wouldnt hurt either. Also if you did a cam, new valve springs would be in order. But all that would give you a good power bump, is worth the time, and are all easy upgrades. Could do it all in a weekend, tune it and have a nice noticeable bump in power.

 

[Cranky]

Here's what I did to a Ford 289 many years ago. Torker intake, 600 Holley, headers and a good exhaust. The car went from running mid 16's to a 15 flat and that you can feel really good. Stock cam was still in it. The car had a 4 speed too which was an automatic and the thing had 2.80 gears. I assume your car has 2.94's in it. The biggest bang for the buck is a rear gear change but then you will lose your highway cruising ability. If you decide to change the cam, have someone help you that knows how to use a degree wheel to do it. I degree in all engines I do no matter how mild they are.

 

[Dcreole!]

Here's what I did to a Ford 289 many years ago. Torker intake, 600 Holley, headers and a good exhaust. The car went from running mid 16's to a 15 flat and that you can feel really good. Stock cam was still in it. The car had a 4 speed too which was an automatic and the thing had 2.80 gears. I assume your car has 2.94's in it. The biggest bang for the buck is a rear gear change but then you will lose your highway cruising ability. If you decide to change the cam, have someone help you that knows how to use a degree wheel to do it. I degree in all engines I do no matter how mild they are.

Thanks for the good advice !

- - - Updated - - -

thank u !!!!!!!!

 

[mrsnicks]

Without a cam swap you dumping in more fuel and air in the top, but the valves still open and shut like they did before and can't really benefit from the extra fuel and air.
You got extra going in... you have the potential for extra going out with the headers, but don't have the processing ability in the middle without the cam.

 

[Cranky]

Without a cam swap you dumping in more fuel and air in the top, but the valves still open and shut like they did before and can't really benefit from the extra fuel and air.
You got extra going in... you have the potential for extra going out with the headers, but don't have the processing ability in the middle without the cam.

I disagree with that.....done way too many mods exactly like he's talking about to agree with your statement. With a better intake, exhaust, and carb, the engine will flow more air and in turn will also flow more gas....and produce more power. If the carb is jetted too rich, then yes, you can use up more gas but carbs work on airflow through them and a given engine with the size of the cam, intake, exhaust will only flow so much. If you put an 850 on top of a mild 318, then sure, you will waste gas plus the engine will perform poorly especially on the low end. You have to match components and so long as you don't go nuts with the bolt on parts, it can perform very well without a cam change. Yeah, I was running a bit of a large carb on my 289 and fuel mileage suffered for it in town but out on the highway, it knocked down 20-22 running 70 but running 15 flat at the track with an old school 289 in a 66 Mustang Fastback wasn't anything to cough at in the mid 70's. Heck, the early stock 90's 302 Mustangs weren't running 15 flat. Now if he goes with large tube headers, large runner intake with a too large of a carb then yeah, he will waste gas and not gain much performance if any without a cam change. With small engines, you have to think small. Small runner intake, small tube headers and a small carb. Large tube headers, large runner intakes and a big carb will hurt the low end on an otherwise stock long block.

 

[apostle228]

I disagree with that.....done way too many mods exactly like he's talking about to agree with your statement. With a better intake, exhaust, and carb, the engine will flow more air and in turn will also flow more gas....and produce more power. If the carb is jetted too rich, then yes, you can use up more gas but carbs work on airflow through them and a given engine with the size of the cam, intake, exhaust will only flow so much. If you put an 850 on top of a mild 318, then sure, you will waste gas plus the engine will perform poorly especially on the low end. You have to match components and so long as you don't go nuts with the bolt on parts, it can perform very well without a cam change. Yeah, I was running a bit of a large carb on my 289 and fuel mileage suffered for it in town but out on the highway, it knocked down 20-22 running 70 but running 15 flat at the track with an old school 289 in a 66 Mustang Fastback wasn't anything to cough at in the mid 70's. Heck, the early stock 90's 302 Mustangs weren't running 15 flat. Now if he goes with large tube headers, large runner intake with a too large of a carb then yeah, he will waste gas and not gain much performance if any without a cam change. With small engines, you have to think small. Small runner intake, small tube headers and a small carb. Large tube headers, large runner intakes and a big carb will hurt the low end on an otherwise stock long block.

I definitly have to agree with Cranky on this fact, as I have personally done just an intake and exhaust on cars and dyno'd them before and after... There WILL be power increase with just intake and exhaust... It wont be huge, but it will be there. I have seen bumps in the 15-25 HP range with just intake and exhaust... It may not be incredibly noticeable in the driver's seat, but track times and dynos will prove the power increase is there. Its just a cold hard fact that stock intakes and exhaust are restrictive. Restrictive to the point where the stock engine isnt getting quite as much air as it possibly could. Open up your airflow on both ends, and it lifts that particular limitation.

 

[ZR9B]

My first car ever was a 71 barracuda 318 2 barrel single exhaust..... I put a stock 340 4bbl intake with a adapter plate and a 2bbl carb from a 383.. strongberg I think...headers and hush thrush mufflers.. also the best upgrade was orange box ignition with a good set of wires and plugs...my buddy had a 305 ( I think ) nova as a test mule....I went from fender to fender racing .... to pulling on him good by the time we were done...seat of the pants feeling was better too..

 

[Coronet 14]

This is what I have on my 72. Intake Weind 600cfm Carb and electronic distributor conversion. Runs great

 

[bigaadams]

ah come on...I got a go kart that will leave black marks like that...install a sure grip...put some real meat under the wheel wells and see what your marks will equate to..hopefully less rubber marks as the power is transferred to the pure thrill of acceleration and not wasted resources (beyond fuel that is)....oh and cut back on that 45 ;bs of air in the tires...

intake and exhaust upgrades will enhance but as the engine is a gaint air pump..only the changing of its breathing (cam and valves) is really going to make a significant difference..but then..you got to be able to hook this power to the wheels..never ever forget your gearing needs as you adjust your breathing...usually you power/torque band shifts significantly with these alterations

 

[Dcreole!]

Wow, BigAAdams why so hard on the Man's car...since my car is in Alabama, maybe on my way back to Ohio I can spend the weekend in Atlanta with my grandkids ,drop my car off with you & all the parts and you can show them how its done...and i am serious...tell me what's the labor cost...make it the little Beast >>>>

 

[Photon440]

Afraid I have to agree with Cranky as well. I've done simple mods with no cam change that resulted in pleasing power increases. A 302 Mustang ('68) with dual exhaust and stock 4bbl intake was much peppier than the 2bbl starting point. Just using an adapter plate and larger 500 cfm. Holley 2bbl woke up my 318 Satellite, even with single exhaust. Simple things can give results.

 

[Cranky]

Another car I 'played' with in more recent times. A 66 Belvedere with /6 and auto. The car ran a 23 (ouch) second 1/4 mile when I got it. Mods were open element air cleaner, flex fan, straight single exhaust, jetted up factory Holley, advanced timing, quicker distributor curve and shed weight from 3370 to 2950. These mods were not all at once and by the 5th time out to the track, ET fell to 19.66 (ironic?) and it was consistent. The next change was a big one....swapping out the dinky 7 1/4? 2.94 for an 8 3/4 with 4.10 gears. ET fell to 18.10 with no other changes and now the tired /6 could actually make it to 4800 rpm but it really sounded like 10K lol

 

[bigaadams]

Wow, BigAAdams why so hard on the Man's car...since my car is in Alabama, maybe on my way back to Ohio I can spend the weekend in Atlanta with my grandkids ,drop my car off with you & all the parts and you can show them how its done...and i am serious...tell me what's the labor cost...make it the little Beast >>>>

I was not trying to be hard on the man's car...but seriously, one has to consider the entire build in my opinion to get the best bang for your buck and make spending that buck wisely. Collecting these parts to do the job is not all that involved, good cast dual plane intake, good thermoquad with a kit put in (watch those o-ring..do not double up..get the old ones out first) the cam is not that expensive depending on where you buy...new lifter are not expensive...intake gasket set....being a low mileage unit is on his side for this freshening up..odds are the lower end is in great shape. Dual exhaust and his axle is still in the range to work this mild increase in cam duration..given, just a cam from a Ramcharger circa '76 (advz, 260) will help...the 4 bbl will add to that and do open the exhaust to duals..you will see a good improvement all around...use turbo pancake mufflers by Walker..about 25.00 each...nice mellow tone not to tip you hand....this will not cost much...resist the aluminum intake..even ma mopar will till you the cast iron is best for the street and ocassional track use..example:

cam and lifters 120.00 intake used 45.00 rebuildable thermoquad core at swap meet 10-30 plus 33.00 kit exhaust upgrade 50 for mufflers plus whatever you local charge to do the cut and bend..gaskets about 25.00 max. I do my own work...so cannot estimate labor for your area....

I have done this very upgrade and it does perform very well..sounds great and makes the car a bit more fun to drive...

 

[Plymouth71]

Afraid I have to agree with Cranky as well. I've done simple mods with no cam change that resulted in pleasing power increases. A 302 Mustang ('68) with dual exhaust and stock 4bbl intake was much peppier than the 2bbl starting point. Just using an adapter plate and larger 500 cfm. Holley 2bbl woke up my 318 Satellite, even with single exhaust. Simple things can give results.

Which adapter plate and which 2bbl? I was looking at the 500 CFM Two Barrel Carburetor PART #: 0-4412S but they couldn't even tell me what adapter to use.
I've got a 71 satellite. I'm wanting to get more get up and go, but It's a low mileage original engine and I'd like to get another motor to play with( If I do any thing drastic) just so I can continue to drive it. I'm having trouble finding any local blocks other than 318's. I'm thinking of starting with dual exhaust, and likely headers. I'm on a strict budget of sell items from your other hobbies to pay for the new one, However I do have a number of excited friends eager to lend a hand with actual tear down and rebuild. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, but I do need the vehicle to be highway friendly, so no drastic gear changes.

 

[Photon440]

Which adapter plate and which 2bbl? I was looking at the 500 CFM Two Barrel Carburetor PART #: 0-4412S but they couldn't even tell me what adapter to use.
I've got a 71 satellite. I'm wanting to get more get up and go, but It's a low mileage original engine and I'd like to get another motor to play with( If I do any thing drastic) just so I can continue to drive it. I'm having trouble finding any local blocks other than 318's. I'm thinking of starting with dual exhaust, and likely headers. I'm on a strict budget of sell items from your other hobbies to pay for the new one, However I do have a number of excited friends eager to lend a hand with actual tear down and rebuild. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty, but I do need the vehicle to be highway friendly, so no drastic gear changes.

It was the Holley 4412 with manual choke, I don't remember the adapter plate but think it was Mr. Gasket. I do remember it fit just about everything...I had that carb and plate on not only the 318 and a 360 but also a Chevy 307. Don't think I needed the adapter to fit it to a Cougar with a 351W, but it sure woke that up too. I probably have the plate somewhere, I'll take a look tomorrow.

-=Photon440=-

 

[Plymouth71]

It was the Holley 4412 with manual choke, I don't remember the adapter plate but think it was Mr. Gasket. I do remember it fit just about everything...I had that carb and plate on not only the 318 and a 360 but also a Chevy 307. Don't think I needed the adapter to fit it to a Cougar with a 351W, but it sure woke that up too. I probably have the plate somewhere, I'll take a look tomorrow.

-=Photon440=-

Thank you, any help is appreciated

 

[fwi]

318 build up

:blob1: WE HAVE GRANNY'S 1972 DODGE CORONET 318 2BL. 29K MILES... LOOKING FOR A FEW SIMPLE BOLT-ON HORSE POWER.
THINKING: A WEIAND 8007 INTAKE MANIFORD (DUAL PLANE), EDELBROCK 600 (1406) & HEDDMAN (78500 SHORT/TIGHT TUBE HEADERS) WANT TO LOWER THE CAR....
ANY OTHER SUGGESTION ?
ABOUT HOW MUCH MORE HORSE POWER WILL THIS GIVE ME ?
NOT TRYING TO PULL THE ENGINE FOR A CAM SET-UP.. .....THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR HELP[FONT=&quot][/FONT]

This is where you need to go: 318poly@yahoogroups.com, it is the authority on all things 318.
All of your questions will be answered and good advice given by Gary Pavlovich, the 318 king.

 

[Moparmurf]

What cam do you recommend for the 318

 

[dvw]

Comp 268H, T-Quad, 4 barrel dual plane intake, headers will wake it up big time.
Doug