• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Fuel tank/sending unit

steve from staten island

Well-Known Member
Local time
8:45 AM
Joined
Sep 24, 2012
Messages
6,715
Reaction score
8,274
Location
staten island,ny
Im wanting to order my fuel tank and sending units. The car is 69 sat with a 383 two barrel. I don't have all the old parts here so i cant check but do i need a 3/8 or 5/16 line? The other thing is the sending unit has a return line. Whats the return line for?The tank says it has two vent lines which also im not sure about. One final question my good friend RC suggested Quanta tanks. I didnt listen to him and called classic. They want 80dollars oversized shipping for the tank which i though was kind of a lot of money so i held off and will call Quanta. In the meanwhile i thought maybe some of you could set me straight Thanks so much--Steve
 
Your car will have 5/16" line.

Try www.rockauto.com

Fuel tank is this number: FTK010092 @ $94.79 ea.
5/16" fuel sender is this number: FSU010143 @ $59.79 ea.

I just ordered and installed this same tank back in June. Fit perfectly and shipped via UPS with no issues.

Edit: don't lose the grounding clamp that spans from the sending unit to the steel fuel line or your fuel gauge won't work correctly (if at all).
 
:angry9:Hi Ron. I'm new to B Bodies. I'm in Melbourne Australia. My Mopar is 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T 440 which I love. A question if I may.

Having problems with my fuel gauge/sender unit. When tank is full gauge reads 1/4 - 1/2.

I have removed tank from car and checked sender unit for OHMS resistance being 10 - 75 ohms, which I understand is within the limits. Also I bent the float arm. Worked out that the float arm was too long and hitting the top of the tank.

So, still no luck and at my wits end.

Could the resistor on the dash panel be faulty.

Thanks. Regards, Pete.

p.s. I will post a pic of my Mopar when I work out how to do.
 
Swing the Fuel Sender from bottom to top and record what the ohms are. If they range from 0 to 72 ohms the sender is good. Connect and read in series if it varies their might be a bad ground in dash or printed circuit board is dirty. If so take tooh paste and polish circuit board and try again.

- - - Updated - - -

Im wanting to order my fuel tank and sending units. The car is 69 sat with a 383 two barrel. I don't have all the old parts here so i cant check but do i need a 3/8 or 5/16 line? The other thing is the sending unit has a return line. Whats the return line for?The tank says it has two vent lines which also im not sure about. One final question my good friend RC suggested Quanta tanks. I didnt listen to him and called classic. They want 80dollars oversized shipping for the tank which i though was kind of a lot of money so i held off and will call Quanta. In the meanwhile i thought maybe some of you could set me straight Thanks so much--Steve
The return line pair ios for the canister vapor lock unit,
 
Swing the Fuel Sender from bottom to top and record what the ohms are. If they range from 0 to 72 ohms the sender is good.

I have had several of the repop sending units read fairly close to the 10-73 ohms, or at least possible to get there with a little bending. The problem seems to be that throughout the midrange, especially the top end that the values are not where they should be for the gauge to read correctly. I call the new ones linear meaning that 1/2 way through the sweep, the ohm reading will be midway between 10 & 73. The originals were not this way and it seems todays companies cant figure this out, or don't want to. I am guessing it has to do with the shape of the tanks, whereas the float doesn't have as much range from 1/2 to full as there is from empty to 1/2.
 
Hello Firiepete,

I was in Melbourne last summer and I spotted the back end of a 68/69 Coronet driving down the road, maybe it was brownish in color? I thought it was a good sighting since there couldn't be too many B-Bodies in Melbourne and who knows maybe it was you!

seth
 
No one I know with a B Body has a gauge that works. Keep all of your old parts as recommended. Don't order from Mopar Ed in the Central Valley.
 
X2 on what Dennis H said. Just fill it up, write down the mileage and drive it until it dies and see how many miles you get on a tank. Then just keep track of how many miles you drive.
 
I'd steer clear of OER brand fuel sending units. I made the mistake of buying one at MATS earlier this year, what a piece of dung!
I ended up repairing and modifying (added a vapor return nipple) my original unit.
 
Hi hunt2elk.I:icon_smile: totally agree with your assumption that the aftermarket tanks are incorrect. Do you know of an alternative generic fuel sender ?? Pete

- - - Updated - - -

Hi Seth. I live in the Northern suburbs of Melbourne. My Coronet is a Burgundy with black bumble bee strips on the rear. You are right. Mine is the only one of this colour that i know of. Pete. ps. I will post a picture when I learn how to.
 
Hi hunt2elk.I:icon_smile: totally agree with your assumption that the aftermarket tanks are incorrect. Do you know of an alternative generic fuel sender ?? Pete

/QUOTE]
The tanks are ok, it is the senders that are not right. I recently bought one from a guy over on the A12 forum. Supposedly he had a few of the original styles left. It seems to ohm out far better than any repro I have checked, but won't know for sure until spring.
 
Back
Top