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Chevelle guy wanting to learn about Mopars

My R/T is an automatic power steering and my Super Bee is a 4 speed with manual steering. I would think the lower trim (440, Super Bee, Road Runner) were manual brakes and manual steering with less chrome and the higher trim levels (R/T, GTX) were automatics with power steering and chrome accessories and trim. I have to list the production numbers when I get home as they are bookmarked on my home computer.
 
My R/T is an automatic power steering and my Super Bee is a 4 speed with manual steering. I would think the lower trim (440, Super Bee, Road Runner) were manual brakes and manual steering with less chrome and the higher trim levels (R/T, GTX) were automatics with power steering and chrome accessories and trim. I have to list the production numbers when I get home as they are bookmarked on my home computer.

I am very envious of your cars :) I'd love to see pictures.
 
Welcome.
I've owned quite a few Chevys including 4 El Caminos. Drove a 64 daily for 20 years. Just got done doing a bunch of work on my friends 67 Chevelle SS 396 4-spd.
But I've always love the Mopars the best. Frist car was a 69 Charger R/T and have owned around 300 Mopars including the ones I've parted out.
Do your self a big favor and look out side of the rust belt box and find a car out west here. The cost of shipping will be big savings over a ton of rust repair.
70-1 E-bodies, Cuda and Challenger, are the big money cars. 72-4 E's are cool and cost much less. 68-70 B-bodies are the next most popular. 71-2 B's are cool and came with a pistol grip 4-spd shifter like the E's. 73-4 B's are ok but would not put much money into one myself. A-bodies are cool and cheap. Lots of them out there.
4-spd cars seem to be more desirable than autos and are out there but doing a 4-spd conversion is not a big deal either.
Just decide which body style you like then go on the hunt.
 
My favorite has always been the 1969 SuperBee (which seem prohibitively expensive to own these days!) Maybe my project car is more of a Coronet or the like.

some food for thought..
it costs the same money to restore a bee as it does for a base coronet.
body,paint,interior has no differance in price between them and
that is where most of the money will go.

if you ever have to sell, the roi (return on investment)
will be alot more for the bee then a coronet.
final sale price could be 2x and alot more depending on car
meaning you have a better chance of losing less money in the long run
with the higher province car.

also try to get a 4 speed car
they will sell faster and be worth a little more then a auto for a identical car.

if i were you, i would save up the most i could at the start
and buy the most complete rust free bee project you can find.
spend a little more upfront and that will
save you many many dollars down the road.
another very important thing tied into value is the trim tag
if its missing,the car will take a good hit on value
some people will not even look at your car for sale if its missing.
it limits your pool of buyers.
one last thing.
these cars will nickel and dime you to death damhik
 
No, the body work and paint was done by Mike at Ray Donch Body Werks in Franklin Park, PA.
 
I am just a beginner with mopars myself, and one thing to consider when looking for a Mopar project seems to be the year and model. You can get almost every body part for certain 68-70 B Body cars. However, 71-74 the available B body parts starts to decrease and you have to find a parts car for some things. Hopefully, that will change in time but for now it can be a hassle to source parts. Now For E Body cars, you can almost build the whole car from new parts. Hope this helps.

Craig
 
I've been a Mopar man my entire life thanks to my Dad. I have many Mopars but also like GMs. Funny thing I found out hanging with Mopar guys is we all seem to like Pontiacs too. BTW one of my GMs is a Pontiac. Welcome and enjoy.
 
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