This stance will cost you a lot if you do it. It was worth it to me to have the right look.
First thing I did was minitub and move in the leaf springs so I could fit 325/50/15 M/T drag radials.
There is a ridge on the inside of the wheel well just above the fender lip that will need to be pushed out. I used a bottle jack and a block of wood, heating the area to be pushed out. You must heat the area or you will have outside quarter damage at each end of the wheel opening.
Took out the rearend and leaf springs and set the rims with 5" backspacing and tires in the wheel opening (setting them in about 1/2 to 3/4" in from the lip) and took a tape measure and measured between the rims where they bolt to the brake drums.
Then I had to have the rear end narrowed about 3/4" on each side. Plus I had to buy shorter axles. I used Dr. Diff for the axles and had a local guy narrow the housing because he had a jig.
Finding 15" wheels that will fit the older style caps (bigger by one inch in diameter) is very difficult. 1960-66 1/2 dodge trucks and a 66-67 C body with disc brakes are your only sources. Plus some mid 60's Studebakers. Then you have to take to a place that will cut the centers out and weld them with 5" backspacing too 10" outer rims.
Or you can do what I did with the front rims and weld small 1/2" bolts with the heads cut off in 4 different places to the easier to find 15x7" 68 and up steel wheels.
Front tires are 235/60/15 M/T radial tires. McCormack Racing has the best deal on M/t tires even beating Summit prices and have free shipping.
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