Tips for buying 440 HP block?

[wsutard]

I'm thinking about buying a 68 440 HP block and forged crank off Craigslist for $500.

Does anyone have tips of what to inspect when I go to take a look at it?

My plan would be to keep it close to 440 during machining and then all new aftermarket speed parts.

 

[Daves69]

Here's a couple.
I'll start it with block history and location.
Block valley area for cracks internal and external, broken bolt bosses, damaged bolt threads, bent or missing dowels, bore size and ridge, main cap set, etc.

Crank journal diameters, #3 main rear side thrust face wear, correct direction of knurl for rear main seal, hole drilled and reamed for pilot bushing.

 

[dvw]

I personally don't think a unmachined 440 block is worth anywhere close to $500. All 440 blocks are created equal. If want the best one, sonic test. You can find good late blocks, thin early blocks. For the run of the mill 500 HP street build any will suffice that's not cracked.
Doug

 

[wsutard]

Good advice guys. Thanks.

What are the thoughts around this package?
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5888705882.html

 

[moper]

If the machining is good it's a decent deal. I'd want to see the balance card for it, and understand you will only be able to run open chamber heads on it.

 

[Lets Roll]

I read somewhere the later 440 blocks were better reinforced and had thicker motor mount tabs ( which I have broke before) . I don't know if its true but it was 74-78 I think. The problem is finding a later one with the steel crank. Some really good low mile 440 engines are being pulled from old motor homes. They need to be rebuilt and have the hi pro parts put in to make power. Some have no ridge in the cylinders because they went so little miles.

 

[dvw]

There are blocks with reinforcing ribs on the outside. They crack just as easily when frozen. Don't ask how I know. No big improvement. Great info here;
http://www.440source.com/blockinfo.htm
Doug

 

[SlinktRR]

I am using a 69 block and it had to be repaired as the casting was thin around the freeze plug locations. But the crank was good and my target of 600hp is within the margin for stock. I would use whatever you can find for cheap if you are changing cranks like a stroker. 500 dollars is not terrible if the crankshaft is usable but bare blocks I have seen for as little as 200. Shop around there are big blocks everywhere.

 

[eldubb440]

the HP block is worth more to someone with a GTX or R/T, if date correct for their application......... I'd scoop one up with a early oct 67 assembly date

 

[wsutard]

I'm leaning towards the listing with the parts over the single block since it has been machined already. I spoke with the guy and it seems like he knows what he is talking about and this isn't his first rodeo. Which is a lot more than I can say about myself.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5888705882.html

If the machining is good it's a decent deal. I'd want to see the balance card for it, and understand you will only be able to run open chamber heads on it.

Moper, what makes this an open chamber setup only? From my reading that really isn't a bad thing, but I would like to know.

 

[SlinktRR]

that Seattle listing has flat top pistons. You would likely need to run open chamber to keep from detonating, like 88 or 90 cc 906 heads or 88cc edelbrocks with thick head gaskets. I had to buy dished pistons to use with 78cc closed chamber trick flows.

 

[64 Post]

I personally don't think a unmachined 440 block is worth anywhere close to $500. All 440 blocks are created equal. If want the best one, sonic test. You can find good late blocks, thin early blocks. For the run of the mill 500 HP street build any will suffice that's not cracked.
Doug

X2! But…but… but… it’s a HP BLOCK!!! Guys hear HP and they go gaga… LOL